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I need to know what is the correct trim that covers the inner cill and forms a seal around the door itself. Mine is a 59 model but I had a lookat a 1960 car the other day which had what looked like a flat aluminium trim secured to the inner cill which then wrapped over the flange which is adjacent to the bottom of the door when closed. I'd assumed that there would be some form of rubber door seal; can anyone advise what the original spec would have been please?

Many thanks

Graeme

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I need to know what is the correct trim that covers the inner cill and forms a seal around the door itself. Mine is a 59 model but I had a lookat a 1960 car the other day which had what looked like a flat aluminium trim secured to the inner cill which then wrapped over the flange which is adjacent to the bottom of the door when closed. I'd assumed that there would be some form of rubber door seal; can anyone advise what the original spec would have been please?

Many thanks

Graeme

 

There is an alu finishing strip that goes over the sandwich formed by the outer sill, inner sill and floor but the main seal at the bottom of the door is a rubber seal that is attached to the bottom of the door with small clips that latch into the small holes running along the bottom of the door.

 

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=1882

 

Item 35 in the Moss diagram above.

 

The top of the door has another seal that attaches to the scuttle using more of those clips and probably some glue. My 1960 tub is still in primer so I havent gotten to this point yet.

.

Stan

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Hi Graeme,

FWIW I would suggest not fitting the bottom door seal for the following reasons.

Doesn't really make a lot of difference.

Traps water.

Does not allow to drain and air dry.

Each time you open and close the door you have a fine dust that coats the rubber and rubs on the paint, door vibrates and causes more abrasion.

Repro ones are very stiff and tight to fit. May change pretty door gaps everyone strives for!

Finally the clips damage the paint on the bottom of the door on fitting and are then masked from view potentially trapping condensation from inside the door causing rust along the seam.

Drafts in a TR kind of go with the territory and these don't in my view much for it.

 

When fitting door finisher I suggest that you put a bead of sealer round the edge of it prior to screwing down to prevent water getting underneath and going down the screw hole into the sill area below.

 

 

Just my viewpoint and I am sure that others will differ but each to his or her own.

 

Rgds

Rod

 

 

 

 

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I agree, I have not fitted the rubber seal to the bottom of my doors either. I have fitted the similar seal to the front top of door aperture, & that provides useful draft proofing.

 

Bob.

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There was a Triumph agent in Brighton , Moores, and their foreman Mr Lovejoy advised me to remove the lower seal as it always caused problems. After removal the doors closed much better.

 

However the back of the chassis was rusted away and the rear of it had of had disappeared by the time the car was 11 years old.

 

Even Standard Triumph did not like the lower door seal.

 

Good luck, Richard .

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There was a Triumph agent in Brighton , Moores, and their foreman Mr Lovejoy advised me to remove the lower seal as it always caused problems. After removal the doors closed much better.

 

However the back of the chassis was rusted away and the rear of it had of had disappeared by the time the car was 11 years old.

 

Even Standard Triumph did not like the lower door seal.

 

Good luck, Richard .

My 3a is a Moore's car 01.58 so that explains the absence if a seal! I cannot imagine the door closing wit one in place

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