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Hi.

I have HS6 carbs fitted to my TR3, yes the floats are a nylon material, adjustment in level is achieved by adding, or removing sealing washers under the needle valve jet. Also, if one float measures up to be high, & the other low, swapping the floats over can sometimes work.

With mine, I used a combination of swapping, and adding 1 washer to one side only to get the result I wanted.

The book says gap between float chamber lid, and top of float (when held upside down) , should be between 3.2, & 4.8 mm (use a drill to check).

I set mine to be 4.5 ish n the front carb, & 3.5 ish on the rear carb - this was to compensate for the slope of the engine, & the fact that the front float chamber is in front of the carb (higher), & the rear float chamber is behind the carb (lower) This hopefully results in equal heights of fuel at the main jet of each carb. Anyway, the car runs very nicely, with a nice slow, even tickover :o)

 

Bob.

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There are two types of float on HS6. Early versions have a metal fork similar to H6. This can be bent and/or use packing washers. Later types have a molded integral pivot and this is not adjustable, so use packing washers as above.
Details here:
http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/Tips.htm#floatlevel

Mike

Edited by MikeF
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Peter.

I have fitted "stay up floats" to my T120 m/cycle - Amal concentric carbs. the originals filled up with petrol & sank !

I had not realised that you could get them for SU carbs. I think I may order a couple for stock.

 

Bob.

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