Percy TR6 Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Morning all. My ongoing journey of discovery with Percy has today led me to the boot - the fuel pump to be specific. Its all working fine (touch wood) but it struck me I don't know as much about it as I probably should. Its a Bosch type pump and I have attached a photo showing what I believe each part to be - confirmation of my labelling would be a good start. More importantly, perhaps, I am looking for some advice on the filter or filters. How often should these be cleaned and / or replaced? I believe the pump has only been in there for less than 2 years but I've done nothing to it since acquiring the car. The glass filter (if that's what it is) appears to have a bit of debris inside so I think it may benefit from a clean. Additional questions along the same lines are: can the filters be cleaned or must they be replaced? if cleaned - then how? if replaced - from where? Apologies once again for the basic questions - I've tried finding out elsewhere on the web and via other fuel pump related posts but am no further forward. Steve. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ijonsson Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 This is where I got my replacement fuel filter (Mahle Kolben KL94): http://autopartsmarket.eu/?action=catalog_part_info_view&code=KL94&id_brand=10223&item_code=0D3_KL94&id_provider=1006&return=code%3D0060801638000%26action%3Dcatalog_price_view /Inge Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 My comments are: Looks like a 'Bosch' kit from one of the usual suppliers, maybe prestige? The prv is also a modern replacement, again poss prestige? Looks to have been in for a while, bit of corrosion. Braided fuel line, good Pre filter looks a bit small to me, I use a sytec which is about the size of your post filter. The post pump fuel filter looks to be easily replaceable, but as it's under full pressure be sure to get a suitable high pressure replacement, ideally from the 'kit' supplier No evidence of uprated wiring or a relay? A good setup, I'd replace the filters as general maintenance. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Yes it does look like Prestige Injection and he stocks all spares.He uses a different filter now which is a better high flow and can be washed clean. Regards Harry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Percy TR6 Posted February 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Thanks for the input guys. I will contact Prestige for spares. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted February 15, 2014 Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 Hi Steve, TR specialists can be an expensive source of injection parts. FSE Glencoe are decent folks for filters and erhanol-proof pipework, hard to beat the Sytec Bullet for pre filter, alloy element preferably as it can be washed out. http://www.glencoeltd.co.uk/sytec-fuel-filters-swirl-pots-water-separators/sytec-motorsport-fuel-filters-bullet/ Revington also do decent braided pipework for the TR, that is ethanol proof. The post filter is usually a SAAB unit from the injected cars of the 70s, and you can find it on ebay for a lot less that specialists often seem to want. If I remember rightly Alco SP-2002 is one cross reference. Check the number on your old filter you can soon enough find it on Google and cross reference. Incidentally, neither Bosch pumps nor their matching post filters were intended for vertical mounting, and the benefit of mounting horizontally is that they last a great deal longer . . . . TR specialists don't always agree, but then regular replacement of pumps and filters is profitable business. Those of us accustomed to Bosch pumps in their original purpose, K and L Jetronic injection systems, would expect a 100K miles life from a pump, as opposed to the few thousand miles it can take to knock out the pump if it and its filter are vertically mounted. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted February 15, 2014 Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 This is one common fitment with the Bosch pump http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FUEL-Filter-OEM-Quality-Fits-Saab-99-2-0-EMS-Service-TF7309-/330926643983?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3ASaab%7CModel%3A99&hash=item4d0cc3db0f#ht_1202wt_1190 And under a tenner delivered is my idea of a sensible price for a fuel filter, not the £30+ some TR specialists seem to think is appropriate. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted February 15, 2014 Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 Thought it was just Me but as Alec says what a Strange way to mount the Pump,how one is supposed to Change/Clean the Pre Filter is anybody's guess but not a handy job with that set up,that looks a Nightmare to Change. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Percy TR6 Posted February 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 Thanks again for the input guys. I had noticed that most pics showed a horizontal installation - this might be a good opportunity to change that. How often would you change the filter & clean the pre? Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PJM Posted February 15, 2014 Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 I use a throwaway filter from a Nissan skyline that costs about a tenner from flea bay. Had it fitted for about 3 years then changed it and cut the old one open out of curiosity, there were some signs of a very small amount of water sitting in the bottom but the filter element showed no signs of clogging up. On my modern diesel the filter was changed at 75K. I would err on the side of caution and replace every 3 to 5 years depending on how many miles you drive or indeed the state of the inside of the fuel tank and how much debris is coming out! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Percy TR6 Posted February 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 After considering all the input above, and poking around in the boot, I have decided on a compromise. I will keep the existing pre-filter (I've cleaned it, the metal filter inside looks OK and it has worked well thus far), but will resite it for easier access in the future I will rotate the main filter/pump installation through 90 degrees I will replace the existing main filter (Bosch 0 450 905 005) with one of the recommended flea bay options (http://www.ebay.co.u...#ht_1202wt_1190) So, I now have two additional questions... 1) I would also like to install a relay - should this go in the boot near the pump or in the engine bay near the fuses? Or doesn't it matter? 2) I suspect I will need to extend the hose between the pre-filter and the pump - I'm assuming I can use any low pressure fuel hose for this purpose...is that correct? Thanks once again for the input and assistance - in a few years time I might actually know something about this car maintenance lark! Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ijonsson Posted February 21, 2014 Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 I installed the relay close to the fuses, else you have to trace a new wire for activating the relay, if you put it close to the pump. Many suggest a thicker than original + feed wire to the pump, but as you already has been running with a Bosch pump there shouldn't be a problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted February 21, 2014 Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 re relay location, i've tried both ! On my last car i had a bank of relays on the bulkhead next to the wiper motor. this time i installed the headlight relays in the NSF corner of the car as this allowed me to avoid cutting any of the original wiring. followed this philosophy for the fuel pump relay too, so its in the boot. this does mean running a new, appropriate thickness, fused wire to the boot. On balance i would go with boot mounted. steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Percy TR6 Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 So....new fuel filter arrived today. It seems to have an M14 connection on the input and an M12 on the output....whereas my original filter was M14 at both ends. Can anyone tell me where I can find an adaptor to connect my original M14 banjo bolt to the the M12 output?? Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davidsmithhello653 Posted November 16, 2021 Report Share Posted November 16, 2021 (edited) Hi, I recently aquired my XE 180 R Sport and subscibed to Topix to do various jobs on the car including the pollen filter. Your car WILL have a pollen filter, on some cars it is located under the bonnet and is easy to replace, others are located inside the car near the heater unit and can be a pain to replace, our cars have their's located behind the glovebox. I did not replace mine after all as a missing screw in the glovebox suggested it had already been replaced during a dealer service but the procedure is to remove the tray beneath the glove box, remove the small facia endpanel (beside the airvent), there are three screws at the base of the glovebox and seven inside and on the side. this should reveal the heater motor and the pollen filter slides into the motor housing. I would anticipate the job taking about an hour at your first attempt. I can also advise you to pay attention to this online service https://www.brillassignment.co.uk/ for writing and buying written works, which is a great time saver for students Edited November 17, 2021 by davidsmithhello653 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted November 16, 2021 Report Share Posted November 16, 2021 Are you posting on the right forum David? This one is for Triumph TR6 and the thread is discussing fuel filters. While your tip may be useful for fellow Jaguar owners, I can guarantee there is NO pollen filter on a 1970's soft-topTriumph. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted November 20, 2021 Report Share Posted November 20, 2021 On 2/15/2014 at 9:07 AM, Percy TR6 said: Thanks again for the input guys. I had noticed that most pics showed a horizontal installation - this might be a good opportunity to change that. How often would you change the filter & clean the pre? Steve I was told by Bosch engineering only to use one of their low resistance pre-filters and there was no need for a post filter???? I have done that for over 40 years and never had a problem with fuel starvation or the dreaded harmonic banging as Malcom's system used to suffer from before he went to a diaphragm PRV. I told him that it was his 2000psi hose that was the problem but he would not accept that then he went to a diaphragm PRV??? It must have been a good earner for!!!!! Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted November 21, 2021 Report Share Posted November 21, 2021 I also decided that a filter on pump suction is much more important than a discharge (outlet) filter. The amount of debris generated in the tank is higher than the additional debris the pump can create (by wear of the internals). Also, the PRV and MU are old technology, not with the very narrow clearances modern equipment has, so less sensitive for wear from very fine particles. But a discharge filter has no effect on cavitation, so would not harm from that perspective. (Harmonic) vibrations could indeed be increased by ptfe of stiff rubber hoses, as Bruce mentions, they will absorb less energy and therefor are a poor “damper” compared to softer rubber hoses. Hose length and routing can play a role too. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rwest Posted November 21, 2021 Report Share Posted November 21, 2021 I was afraid to admit that I've only had a single pre-pump filter on my Bosch pump setup for the last 20 years, so I'm glad to discover that I'm not the only one I completely understand the belt-and-braces approach of having an additional filter after the pump, but I've never had a problem in the 77000 miles that I've driven my TR6. Cheers, Robert Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted November 21, 2021 Report Share Posted November 21, 2021 48 minutes ago, rwest said: I was afraid to admit that I've only had a single pre-pump filter on my Bosch pump setup for the last 20 years, so I'm glad to discover that I'm not the only one I completely understand the belt-and-braces approach of having an additional filter after the pump, but I've never had a problem in the 77000 miles that I've driven my TR6. Cheers, Robert Me too, with a 996 pump and Sytec disposable filters, but only for 10 years and 30000 miles ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CP26309 Posted November 22, 2021 Report Share Posted November 22, 2021 Hasn't anyone show 'Percy TR6' the original Lucas set up? I haven't changed my petrol filter for years and years and years, doesn't seem to effect it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CP26309 Posted November 22, 2021 Report Share Posted November 22, 2021 The 'Continental Cooling Kit' (Cooling Coil) was a Triumph accessory, I added. Note the rubbish masking by my cars painter! Lazy whatsit! Grrrr! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted November 22, 2021 Report Share Posted November 22, 2021 Doesn't this set up just put the heat from the pump back into the petrol? I have an Isuzu light truck with a fuel/air heat exchanger mounted in the diesel return fuel line between the chassis rails- to me that the set up needed to cool the fuel- dump the excess heat externally. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CP26309 Posted November 26, 2021 Report Share Posted November 26, 2021 In theory possible, but then it probable gets air cooled again on it's journey along the chassis under the car? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
OldBob Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 (edited) On 11/22/2021 at 10:13 PM, Mike C said: Doesn't this set up just put the heat from the pump back into the petrol? I have an Isuzu light truck with a fuel/air heat exchanger mounted in the diesel return fuel line between the chassis rails- to me that the set up needed to cool the fuel- dump the excess heat externally. Couldn't agree more.... +1 On a long journey, the alloy tank fitted to my 6 gets hotter and hotter. I've been considering changes including a fuel cooling method in the return line. It could be the key component missing on pi cars and solve the cavitation problem so many can suffer from. Edited December 3, 2021 by OldBob syntax Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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