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Anyone know what temp the thermostat for the cooling fan should be?

(The type that goes in the bottom hose or bottom tank of the rad)

The reason I ask is we (The Leicester group have commisioned a batch of aluminium rads from the same people that make them for one of the Subaru rally teams). They look like they will cost a little over half the price that the traders are selling them for.

We intend to supply them with the correct switch as most people are likely to use electric fans, and also they are being drilled & supplied with bracketry for mounting the fans properly (Ie not the crappy through the rad cable ties nor the flimsy brackets that Kenlowe supply) Possibly we may even have tracked down some 14 inch fans at sane prices too.

We are doing the same for the TR6s too so watch this space as we'll keep you posted as the protoype sees action & the production run commences.

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copper is a better conductor (3.98 W/cm*C), Aluminium (2.37 W/cm*C)

hope this answers your question.

Not quite that simple - you also have to consider the effect of the solder which connects the fins to the waterways which is why aluminium does rather well as being much lighter.

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back to the original question...

I think that the electrical switch should be set at a similar temp to the mechanical thermostat.

The new MOSS catalogue lists several electrical therms for the new modified lower kenlowe hose, but warns not too set the "ON" temp too high. Apparently the temp drops approx 7 degress through the rad.

I enquired about the therms and was told to use the ~86-68 degree (but they're not too expensive at about £6 a go so you could experiment a bit)

 

cheers

Adey (interested in the kit if it works out btw)

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Not quite that simple - you also have to consider the effect of the solder which connects the fins to the waterways which is why aluminium does rather well as being much lighter.

The fins aren't actually soldered in though, it's an interference fit. So the alloy ones are proabably more efficient in that (I think) the fins tend to be more densely packed, and integral with the tubes.

Not arguing, just mulling over the facts.

I wonder if there has been an actuall side by side controlled test?

It's no good relying on the fact that modern cars all have plastic+alloy, this is cost and lightness led.

Not swapping mine anyway, I like to know that if I ram a screwdriver/drill/stone through the unit, I can fix it again!

 

Rob.

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