I used to have one of those! Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Hi All I own TS15335L. Does anybody know which engine block vent is correct for this car - the one with the straight vertical tube or the cranked one? Many thanks, Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 (edited) I'd guess the vertical. The engine change point is for the longer tube. Perhaps the lack of later change point to the swept back one is the subject of 'while stocks last' rather than a definite change point. My TR 2 © TS5297 with (e) TS5676FR had the vertical. See service bulletins for 1954 following. Cheers Peter W PS PDF files now rather than the ghastly tiff. Edited August 1, 2014 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badfrog Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 Hi all, I tried to understand the picture without success. Could you post a pic of the tube "in situ", along the engine? Many thanks, Badfrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 (edited) It is merely an extension to the bottom of the original tube. Later the block changed too as an internal baffle was cast where the tube pokes in. Cheers Peter W Edited August 1, 2014 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
I used to have one of those! Posted January 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 Hi All Thanks for the responses so far. Attached are photos of the two different vents I have. I am inclined to think that the straighter one is correct for my car going from photos I have seen, although I think either would fit. The added baffle mentioned in the spares book at TS972E is built into the top tight bend of both of these and is hidden within. An earlier one without the baffle would be very rare (and undesirable?) and as I have never owned such an early car, I cannot see how I could have one. Anybody else have any thoughts, just so that I can keep the correct one. Thanks Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badfrog Posted January 31, 2014 Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 Hi, Thanks for the enlightment. I'd like to mention something that happened with my 122S Volvo. I built a breather tube "to the road" once and made it a trifle too long. This elicited a sort of "whistle" effect in the tube and the draft under the car aspirated all the engine oil in 5 minutes. I saw the oil pressure gauge falter and killed the engine immediately. Checking the dipstick: engine was empty. So beware of dimensions. Badfrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted February 1, 2014 Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 The breather pipe was modified at engine TS972E to minimise oil loss under competition conditions. At the same time a diaphragm seal was added to the fuel pump to stop oil escaping on sharp right hand corners. Improvements arising from feedback from early TR2 racers. Viv Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted February 1, 2014 Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 Hi, Thanks for the enlightment. I'd like to mention something that happened with my 122S Volvo. I built a breather tube "to the road" once and made it a trifle too long. This elicited a sort of "whistle" effect in the tube and the draft under the car aspirated all the engine oil in 5 minutes. I saw the oil pressure gauge falter and killed the engine immediately. Checking the dipstick: engine was empty. So beware of dimensions. Badfrog I believe the solution to this is to cut the bottom of the pipe at 45 degrees, with the opening facing the rear of the car (as with the original TR breather pipes). Should be fine as long as you don't reverse at more than 70mph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted February 1, 2014 Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 Hi, Thanks for the enlightment. I'd like to mention something that happened with my 122S Volvo. I built a breather tube "to the road" once and made it a trifle too long. This elicited a sort of "whistle" effect in the tube and the draft under the car aspirated all the engine oil in 5 minutes. I saw the oil pressure gauge falter and killed the engine immediately. Checking the dipstick: engine was empty. So beware of dimensions. Badfrog One way of finding your way back home. Hansel and Gretel recommend using breadcrumbs instead - cheaper too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 1, 2014 Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 Hi, Thanks for the enlightment. I'd like to mention something that happened with my 122S Volvo. I built a breather tube "to the road" once and made it a trifle too long. This elicited a sort of "whistle" effect in the tube and the draft under the car aspirated all the engine oil in 5 minutes. I saw the oil pressure gauge falter and killed the engine immediately. Checking the dipstick: engine was empty. So beware of dimensions. Badfrog That's the issue that bulletin pages 19 and 20 were addressing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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