TRnorm Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 Bought rebuild kit from Moss, but no instruction. Specifically - how to extract the two old valves and replace with the new ones. My existing valve inserts are retained in their respective bores by a "staking" process and the method of removal of the displaced metal that retains the valves is not obvious to me. I realize the description will appear very inadequate to those who have not opened their pump, but hopefully those in the know - will know! Any advice welcome. Thanks Norman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 Hi Norman ~ Usually the two valves are retained in place by a 'bar' which is secured with one or two screws. Assuming that you've got an original pump? Seasons greetings ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve R Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 (edited) Hi Norman I think you are referring to the three punch marks around each valve that hold them in, Is there a technical term for them? just use a file or try a punch to tap the metal back, the valve will then come out, replace the seal underneath, pop the new one in and re-punch the sides to secure. Steve Edited December 18, 2013 by Steve R Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 (edited) Norman Mark across the flanges to facilitate re-assembly. Note... very carefully.... the orientation of the two valves ( inlet and outlet , they are identical ) , before removing. The spring of the Inlet valve is pointing towards the diaphragm and the spring of the outlet valve away from the diaphragm. Make sure the body is well supported when punching ( staking ) the new valves back in square.A small smear of grease / Vaseline on the glass bowl gasket will assist the glass seating properly.Just take it all steady and don't rush. Make sure the pump operating arm is correctly seated before tightening up the two screws.When it feels right it will be .Support the two pipes, inlet and outlet, by hand so you don't cross the thread the nuts. Finger tight before you reach for the spanner, tightening the back one is a ( ? ) pain because of the restricted space.Some people resort to cutting down a spanner specially for the job. Safety.... battery disconnected, rags and a fire extinguisher to hand Good luck with it. Bob Edited December 18, 2013 by bob-menhennett Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 The one way valves have to seal completely for the system to work, i really struggled to get that seal, once done the engine based fuel pump would reliably deliver 2 lbs pressure and no more, no matter how many revs the engine did. regards Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRnorm Posted December 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 Thanks everyone. I reckon I now have a good idea as to how to do it and the pitfalls to watch out for. Job scheduled for the quiet moments between turkey! Norman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 Hi Norman, if you have a small socket set (1/4" drive) then you may be able to get onto both attaching nuts - depends on body/engine alignment. if you have a repro pump then it may be worthwhile making some flanged washers to stop the arm pivot from migrating out - see pic. The original pumps appear not to suffer from this though. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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