MacMackenzie Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 I'm about to replace the ring gear on my flywheel and noted that the chamfers are NOT facing the starter motor (the 3 worn patches are on the non-chamfered side of the teeth; which seems contrary to common sense (why have chamfers ?), so possibly previous owner has replaced the ring the wrong way round. however, when I put the new ring up to the starter motor gear I noticed that the chamfers on the motor are opposite to those on the ring; i.e. they wont help engagement.... (so frankly doesn't matter which way round you fit the ring gear to the flywheel !) Roger Williams restoration manual only says 'the teeth should face the back of the car'... hmmm... Repair Ops Manual doesn't mention chamfers at all :-( So now I'm confused... Grateful any further thoughts. Mac. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 Have you got the original starter? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 Mac, Having discovered the same on my 1969 TR6, my thoughts are that, having fitted a pre engaged starter from the commencment of TR6 production, a chamfer was no longer required. The chamfer had been required on the TR5/250 with inertia starter so rather than change production of the ring gear on the engine they just left it 'as is'. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 Panto season Greame oh no they ain't I have seen both types fitted to both models,with untouched engines and numbers correct. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MacMackenzie Posted December 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 Thanks all, the starter motor has a sticky label on it marked LRS187 (dated 07/03), the main casing has 25647D & 2M100 stamped on it... looking at Rimmers that appears to be the correct motor for a CR (1973)... Thanks. Mac. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 I'll offer up a tip when you come to shrink on the new ring gear. Make sure it's really hot because it's possible to shrink it partially on as the flywheel is machined in a two part step around the edge. At least mine was like that and it seemed to be seated but only on the first part of the step. The result was that the starter pinion wouldn't engage. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve P Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 Is this an engine out job? Cheers Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Collins Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 No Steve, just gearbox. Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve P Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 Morning Mike, That's interesting. Can everything be accessed from the underneath or does the gear box tunnel need to be reomved? Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 (edited) I don't know if you can remove the box downwards but you'll need the tunnel cover off to disconnect the overdrive and reversing light switches anyway and I'm sure you won't be able to get to all the bell housing fixings without the cover off. So it's just as well to remove the box from inside the car, seats out, which is how most people, myself included seem to do it. Then the flywheel needs to come off of course. Oh and don't forget to fit the dowel bolts on the bell housing when you reinstall the box. Edited April 20, 2014 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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