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About speedo cable and angle drive


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Hello guys,

 

Before you ask, no, I haven't tried to find an answer via a search engine, because I didn't found this search engine :wacko:

 

So, sorry if I annoy you, but I need your help : is it possible to fit a speedo cable (longer than original !) on a TR4A IRS with A type overdrive, without one of these b****y angle drive ?

 

The car is a LHD, but I don't think it does matter : my worries go to the chassis who's very close to the speedo output.

 

Any clue/experience/solution ?

 

Thanks for your help (including to find the search engine... :rolleyes: )

 

Cheers !

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Hi Chris,

the TR4 has no angle drive.

The cable goes straight in. However the exit form the box is above floor level; so the cable will end up on the righthand side floor.

On the TR4 there is an extended hole for the handbrake that allows the cable to go back under the floor on its travels forward.

 

 

What is the problem with the angle drive?

 

Roger

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Hi Chris.

 

I hate the speedo drive nightmare that is the TR4A. I had loads of trouble. The issue is usually getting to the angle drive. I made an inspection hatch so that if it ever went on me again I could access the damn thing without having to dismantle the car:-) I think the TR4A has to have an angle drive due to the location of where the speedo cable goes in to the box and the clearance for any cable from it. Removing the angle drive would mean a really tight fit if it fitted at all and the chance of the cable kinking and producing a bounce on the speedo.

 

You can see the issue here.

 

http://tr4a.weebly.com/known-tr4a-issues.html

 

 

Best

 

 

Paul.

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Hi Mark,

following your link I read your comment on the heater valve elbow.

Moss sell the correct shape if ever you need one.

Looking at plumbers elbows on the web it would appear that the one that ST decided on is not a standard choice of size. Lots of nearly but not quite.

TRiumph elbow = £££££££ Plumbers typical price = £

Removing the old ali stub should have been fairly easy(ish) - drill out as big as possible then uncurl the remaining thread.

 

Roger

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Hi Roger, Mine snapped off inside and had to be melted out:-) All sorted now.

 

Best

 

Paul.

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@ Roger, there always is one angle drive on an O/D TR4A IRS, the same chassis clearance occur on a TR5 or 6.

 

@ Alec, thanks chap, but please don't tell to anybody else I haven't seen it myself :wacko:

 

@ Paul, interesting link, thanks. What's the copper washer this guy is talking about, never seen any of these with a new angle drive, from any supplier ?!

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Hi Chris,

 

Look at item numbers 95 & 96 at http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=2004&SortOrder=112#top

 

You'll see the washer. It is a copper washer and many people have fitted an angle drive without fitting the washer. The angle drive needs the washer or the angle drive will fail. If you buy a new angle drive it will come with a little information sheet stating that the washer must be used.

 

It's only 46p. Compared to all the aggro of fitting a new drive:-)

 

Hope all that makes sense?

 

Best

 

Paul.

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Hi Mark,

following your link I read your comment on the heater valve elbow.

Moss sell the correct shape if ever you need one.

Looking at plumbers elbows on the web it would appear that the one that ST decided on is not a standard choice of size. Lots of nearly but not quite.

TRiumph elbow = £££££££ Plumbers typical price = £

Removing the old ali stub should have been fairly easy(ish) - drill out as big as possible then uncurl the remaining thread.

 

Roger

I just lent my OE sample of 133061 to Moss's supplier to confirm they were sending the right item. You are right Roger there is a cheap one from China at under a pound. You can fit the cheap one if you take the adjacent head nut and stud out.....

 

Try using the TR6 extender tube instead of the plumbing piece. It is what I use on the TR3 with the brass tap screwed into it. That is because I use TR4-6 heater bulkhead connector on the LH side of the bulkhead and the head heater hose has to cross the engine. This is due to having HS6 carbs on 4A inlet manifold and the rear carb float bowl is where the heater bulkhead tube pokes through.

 

Cheers

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Thanks Paul, I've never seen this washer fitted previously.

 

So, it seems impossible to use a speedo cable without angle drive on a TR4 A IRS ?

 

I think it's time to call the guy (if only I could find his number...) who told me that, with a tailor made cable, there is no more angle drive on his O/D TR6.

 

 

BTW, I don't know if it is an A or a J type, but does it make any difference, I don't know.

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It is possible to eliminate the angle drive by connecting a long speedo cable to the drive on the O/D, it then comes straight out in front of the rt seat.

feed the long cable round the seat and up to the speedo under the dash. Hide it under the carpet and try to seal it to stop oil/dirt coming thru with it.

If you use a Halda this is necessary because the angle drive can't cope with the drag of the Halda

Regards

Michael

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@ Stuart, unfortuatly I don't know if this guy's TR6 is with an A or a J type overdrive :unsure:

 

@ Michael, interesting info, thanks for that : I'll have a look on my friend's TR4 and try to calculate the lengh of the new cable.

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@ Michael, my friend's TR is a LHD, so the cable need to be longer than the longer you have. I hope to be able to estimate the lengh of the new cable next week.

 

@ Vila, thanks for this, but I must confess that I was signed in : it seems that I'm an absolute no brainer with computers* :wacko:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

* same rule apply when I'm near a gorgeous babe, a Triumph,.....

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I've added an A-type O/D to a TR4a and did not use an angle drive. The car was a lhd model, so don't know if that would impact things, but I wouldn't think so as its really whether the cable will fit directly to the transmission without undo "angling" adding stress. The car ran fine and did about 5k miles with me before I passed it along. Not suggesting this is the right way/best way, but that it is a way....

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LHD should be no problem take the line direct out from the O/D around the floor (under the carpet) up to the back towards the heater and out/round to the back of the speedo

Michael

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