Getting engine started after rebuild advice sought

[RobinTR6]

Next up and wont be ready for some time but by way of preparation....

 

My resto has an engine rebuilt by Minisport (believe they are near Leeds). The PO used to run a garage. Have spoken to him and he assures me it was done to TR spec (I need to investigate this further). The real issue is this was done some 10 yrs ago so getting detail is nigh on impossible. The car was then sold on and then the head was rebuilt (about 2 yrs ago).

 

Its a CF engine and a CP head and CR cam....apparently lightened and balanced. Its got a new flywheel and ring gear, clutch.

 

.I'll probably go with PI (have it all in boxes) but may start with carbs (have a set of Strombergs with the car or may get some Webers....).

 

Ive just fitted the timing chain and front cover and done the valves as per brown bible. Put some engine oil down the cylinders.....she seems to turn over fine.

 

Engine currently on garage floor without gearbox.

 

Trying to avoid stripping her down to check stuff as I couldnt do this anyways (with any degree of real knowledge.)

 

Would appreciate thoughts on any special precautions or procedures for getting her started and initial run in..... ?

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Get the right head gasket for the type of block you have is my immediate thought.

 

Peter W

[RobinTR6]

Peter, head was rebuilt and is on, checked and torque'd up the head studs etc all seems OK.

[john.r.davies]

Two matters most important at start up, and they are both to do with lubrication.

Cam followers and rings in bores.

Cams on followers endure enormous pressure. A high-lithium cam-lube is desirable during assembly; stays on the cams long enough to provide lubrication during initial start-up. But after that length of time on the shelf, there won't be any left there. If the head is off, I'd take out each follower a drop some cam lube down onto the cams, with a smear on the base of the follower.

 

Then the rings must be allowed to bed into the bores, and not glaze. That depends on splash lubrication that can be promoted by how you run the engine.

 

Turn over with no plugs until oil pressure appears.

Then plugs in and go for a start.

Run at at least 3000 for at least 20 minutes, to allow the cams to get well lubricated.

Then, vary the engine speed, rev to 4K+, and close the throttle. Do it repeatedly for ten minutes. This allows splashed oil in th elower bores to be drawn up by low chamber pressure, into the ring lands so that they remain well lubed.

 

Whe you first drive it, continue this, varying the engine speed all the time, as far as possible. In fact never drive for long periods at one speed. Potentially bad for you as well as the engine!

 

Jon

[RobinTR6]

Jon, head is on and all set up. Was trying to avoid removing it. If I take it off someone suggested getting the cam out and block line bored to fit cam bearings.....again have never had this on any previous cars and cam appears new (the end that poke out of the block looks like its never been run). Is there some alternative ?

[Andy Moltu]

Unless the cam journals are obviously worn or damaged there is no need to line bore and fit shell bearings.

 

If the engine has been built well (Mini Sport have been going for years and years so it should have been put together properly - the 6 cylinder engine is pretty simple) and not run it is unlikely that the cam lube will have gone as it tends to stick like the proverbial to a blanket so I wouldn't yank the head of to re-lube.

 

It might be worth taking the oil prv out and squirting some engine oil in there to prime the oil pump - the oil will have drained from it and unless it was packed with thicker gloop like Lubriplate it will have drained out.

 

When you first start it, don't let it idle - the 20 minutes at 2000+ rpm is as much to help break in the cam/followers as any thing else. You can do this in shorter bursts if it suits and it is often sensible to switch off and allow to cool, check for leaks and top up the water .

[Guest ntc]

Remove sump pan turn it upside down and pour cam lube on the cam

[john.r.davies]

You could add some zinc to the sump oil.

I always use cheap supermarket oil in a new engine, plus some of this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-Oils-USA-Engine-Break-in-Additive-TB-Zinc-Plus-/370419748521?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item563ebccea9#ht_1004wt_1170

 

Then chuck the start-up oil at 200-500 miles and use whatever you fancy.

John

[Andy Moltu]

Being overly liberal with cam lube may well cause problems with the rings not bedding in.

[RobinTR6]

I am hopeing to avoid removing the head. So the only way to lube the cam is presumably Neil s suggestion. Removing the sump and upending the engine will also be difficult in my garage

[RobinTR6]

OK chaps have taken your advice, so sump off for a good look. Cam looks good, crank has been reground (its unmarked) having removed some caps/big ends, front rear oil seals look new and checked oil pump (not new but unmarked and to tolerance). All back together now and awaiting gearbox and O/D rebuild/ check. Next is sand engine bay so we can improve paint job there.

 

 

 

[flatlandsman]

Just take care to avoid dirt ingress. You seem to have an spin on oil filter adaptor plate fitted which appears open to the elements -including dirt and dust. Whilst your bearings look good and unsullied, they won;t be that way for long if you let all that dirt into the engine via open parts like that. Did you retorque the conrod caps correctly and did you use thread lock compound? As has already been said, the first few minutes are the most critical in any engine rebuild/recommission. Frankly it does look as if the cam doesn't have a great deal of cam lube on it but if you don't want to take the sump off again, then a good proper squirt of decent quality oil down the cam follower bores might help? Good luck

[RobinTR6]

All noted, the spin off filter was only removed so we could manhandle the engine more easily (its back on now..Torqd correctly but no thread lock.....ummmmm, there wasnt any on them. The cam still had oil on it and whilst the sump was off I squirted some more on there. I'll ensure that before startup I'll have another go and get some down the cam follower bores.

 

Given the engine is on the floor I dont mind removing the sump again if the feeling is that its a worthwhile extra effort.