stuartmac Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 Well, after reading up on the subject I opted for a cork gasket and Wellseal. I hadn't heard of, or tried Wellseal before, and it did sould like the stuff to use from what I had read. What a disaster In my opinion its like trying to seal the sump with golden syrup, although after lying on my back under the car I'm certain that Tate and Lyles finest is a damn sight easier to get out of your hair! Theres obviously a fair bit of give in the cork gasket, thats the whole point of using one I guess, to take up any imperfections in the sealing surfaces. I was clearly a bit heavy handed and ended up splitting the gasket due to over tightening - I found it difficult when doing the bolts up not to give it one turn to many "just for good measure" The overall result was that the job looked a total mess on completion - as I did, with more evil wellseal on me than there was on the gasket - and it leaked like a sieve. After ridding my tools of the well seal, and cleaning up all the sticky patches on the garage floor, for round 2 I went with what my heart had been telling me I should have used in the first place - a paper gasket and hylomar. Text book installation, no leaks and no Deepwater Horizon style clean up afterwards I'm quite sure that Wellseal and cork does a wonderful job in the right hands - buts its certainly not suited to my operating methods! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 Welseal in hair serves the same function as Waxoyl in the eye. Everybody does it once Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 In my experience Welseal only ever seals joints that were never going to leak in the first place!! Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 Old fashioned stuff Wellseal but has the advantage that you can spread a thin even layer. I do this on both gasket and metal and wait for it to evaporate to just off touch dry. Worked on my OD but this was perfectly clean and easy access. Better modern Loctite stuff for in service repairs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ade-TR4 Posted October 16, 2013 Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 You should only need a really thin smear, then resist the temptation to banjo the **** out of the bolts to get them tight. You only need to compress the cork not crush it. New anti-rattle washers will help too. I too had to resort to the cork gasket and it has worked well to iron-out the distortions in the sump (it's worth trying to flatten-out to worst of them if you can). Cheers Ade Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted October 16, 2013 Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 No experience with TR4 sumps, but are they that different form TR6's? In those, I always find that the DPO, or even I, have tightened the bolts too much. and that the bolt holes are now proud of the surface along the rest of the rim. Dressing these back with a light hammer, against a suitable dolly does much to seal the gap. I use a piece of 1/4" steel strip, but anything that will fit in a vice, present a flat surface and withstand a little hammering will do. Just tap around the bolt hole until it looks flat to the rest of the sump edge. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted October 16, 2013 Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 Correct. Tap the sump as flat as you can get it. A knowledgable poster on here suggested that this is the stuff to use: http://www.loctite.co.uk/fullproduct-list-loctite-4995.htm?countryCode=uke&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=1000000IXJA You dont use a gasket. I have not tried this yet but I think he is right. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Willie Felger Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Stuart, Wellseal works fine - IF - you use a small brush or finger to lightly coat one surface of the gasket and the sump face (flattened as advised earlier) then when touch dry stick gasket to sump. Same again to second gasket face and the clean lower edge of the engine block. Apply sump to engine and go gently on the spannering. There's not much pressure inside the crankcase so no need to gorilla the bolts and as the Wellseal is dry there should be no drips. That said, I have only ever used the thick paper gasket on my sumps and not had a problem with those, as long as the sump face is flat. Good luck, lets hope it stays oil tight now! Willie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted October 20, 2013 Report Share Posted October 20, 2013 The workshop manual gives the correct torque for the sump bolts its not much, 18-20 lbs/ft Cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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