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AlfredHitchcock

Alternator heat shields

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I know this has been done to death and I have read through old threads where the consensus is to make your own.

 

However most or all of the pictures that were on these threads seem to have disappeared and I could do with some pictorial inspiration.

 

Especially if they are of templates with rough dimensions please.

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I bought a heat shield bandage and wrapped that around the No 1 cylinder exhaust manifold, so far- so good but if anyone thinks I need more, please please shout at me...

 

Tim

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If you have a 4-branch exhaust manifold, it is worth installing a heat shield - the Works did it on the TR4 Rally cars in 1962 to protect the dynamo. I have the same, original, sheet of thin steel now protecting the alternator which was fitted in 1993, and, for good measure, I have put bandage onto the manifold pipes.

 

A piece of metal cut from an oil can would do the job. At the top, attach it to the foremost stud holding the manifold, and contrive a bracket to fix the lower end clear of the back end of the generator. It's not rocket science and, once fitted, it's almost invisible.

 

I can tell you that, some years ago, a well-known supplier on the Somerset levels failed to protect his new alternator with a heat shield - and cooked it! Red face, there!

Ian Cornish

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Forgot to mention I have got the standard cast iron manifold.

 

However Ive just put a new alternator conversion on.

Revingtons do an alloy shield which appears to work on my 4A & was easy to fix.

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Agree with Monty. I've been using the Revington shield on my 4a for many years. Easy to order, easy to install and it works ......... "job done".

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A longer fan belt will allow you to move the alternator away from no-1 exhaust too.

 

I had problems with Lucas alternators frying their regulators (3 units did the same), one reconditioned Bosch unit has now been in service for 11 years :)

 

Cheers!

Ade

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I converted to alternator many years ago now, as per the detail in Ian Cornish's famous article.

 

Cast iron manifodls, heat shield made from plumbers heat mat, and never had a problem, dead cheap, dead easy, photos if needed.

 

John.

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A longer fan belt will allow you to move the alternator away from no-1 exhaust too.

 

I had problems with Lucas alternators frying their regulators (3 units did the same), one reconditioned Bosch unit has now been in service for 11 years :)

 

Cheers!

Ade

Ade

 

Talking about long fan belts, the one that came with the Moss thin belt kit is far to long.

 

I need to ask them but I think its 975mm and I'm guessing thats 75mm too long. Before I ask them, do you know what length you have by any chance?

 

Nick

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I converted to alternator many years ago now, as per the detail in Ian Cornish's famous article.

 

Cast iron manifodls, heat shield made from plumbers heat mat, and never had a problem, dead cheap, dead easy, photos if needed.

 

John.

Ditto- but with wrapped tubular manifolds- belt & braces

 

regards

 

Richard

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Ade

 

Talking about long fan belts, the one that came with the Moss thin belt kit is far to long.

 

I need to ask them but I think its 975mm and I'm guessing thats 75mm too long. Before I ask them, do you know what length you have by any chance?

 

Nick

I think from memory I had to go to 950mm.

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I have a TR7 style LRA101 alternator with Revington narrow pulleys, and am using an internally-notched belt Unipart GCB10963 (11269-K8).

I have looked at the spare and there is no length stated on the package or the belt itself, but I imagine the data can be found from this part number.

Ian Cornish

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Here's my tuppence, cheap, efficient : glass wire insulator under alloy plate.

 

 

 

Badfrog

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Thanks, David, I hadn't twigged that!

I tried to locate the part number on a Unipart website, but nothing came up (what a surprise!), but I imagine that a motor factor would have a look-up table to locate an equivalent.

Ian Cornish

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Your alternator is upside down!

It needs to be rotated 180 degrees - see my article in Section J4 of the Technicalities CD, and in particular under the heading "Mounting", and look at Figure 1.

You need the LH Mounting, but you must invert the Figure so that the adjuster is above the alternator.

If you make this change, the pulley will move away from the engine and the belt will become tight.

Ian Cornish

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Your alternator is upside down!

It needs to be rotated 180 degrees - see my article in Section J4 of the Technicalities CD, and in particular under the heading "Mounting", and look at Figure 1.

You need the LH Mounting, but you must invert the Figure so that the adjuster is above the alternator.

If you make this change, the pulley will move away from the engine and the belt will become tight.

Ian Cornish

Ive been sold the wrong handed alternator then because the double lugs would be at 12 o'clock and the single one at 6 o'clock.

 

Unless thats how it should be?

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Hi Nick,

alternators are most odd.

Yours fits on the right side of the engine but is in fact a lefthand alternator. The TR6 has it fitted to the lefthand side but is called a right hand alternator..

 

You should be able to remove the two long screws from it and rotate the front face to put it in the right place.

 

Roger

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Well done, Roger! I realised this morning that I had failed to mention the need to rotate the rear mounting plate 180 degrees with respect to the front plate, but you have beaten me to it.

Yes, the nomenclature is confusing - hence my reference to the description and the picture in my article and the need to stand on one's head when viewing it! (Alternatively, just rotate the page 180 degrees).

Ian Cornish

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I think you can unbolt the 3 bolts at the back and rotate the casing 120-degrees.

 

Think my fan belt is a 975 too. Can't check at the mo', the car's in storage :(

 

Ade

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I have 3 bolts 120 degrees opposed.

 

There are two lugs on the front plate and one on the back. The front two lugs are 120 degrees opposed also.

 

As per Rogers advice Ive rotated the back lug to align with the other one which I thought would do the trick. However Ive now got the opposite problem - the hole for the adjuster bracket moves from 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock. This means the bracket has no chance of fitting and alternator doesnt follow the arc of the adjuster. If the lugs were 180 degrees opposed this wouldnt be a problem.

 

Ive put it back and think the easiest option is to get a shorter fan belt.

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Hi NIck,

a shorter belt is not the answer. Have another look at the combination of front and back plate - it must work.

 

Roger

 

PS - having had another look at your pictures, surely if you rotate the front plate so that the upper left hole (as shown on the pic) coincides with the

mounting hole it should work.

 

Are you withdrawing the two long screws (180' apart) to move the plates.

Edited by RogerH

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