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Cellulose, two pack, or what?.


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I do 'Smart' repairs for a living and for most operators of this system it's water-based colour coat over a 2k primer followes by a 2k laquer. You can (and I do) small blow-ins on this system as once that laquer is on and baked hard you can flat and polish the s..t out of it to blend with it's surroundings.

 

The relevance of this thread is that my TR6 is going in to have some accident damage sorted (not my fault - honest!!) at a well-respected specialist who tell me they do all there paintwork in 2k over water-based.

 

I have complete faith in them but can't wait to see the results when it comes back as they will be doing a lot of 'blending-in' to original paint.

 

Mike

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I have complete faith in them but can't wait to see the results when it comes back as they will be doing a lot of 'blending-in' to original paint.

 

Mike

Best of luck to them if its red ;)

Stuart.

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No I didn't Dave, it's probably a million quid's worth of R Type Continental by Franay, it's absolutely perfect in every respect having just had a few dents removed after an Alpine Rally recreation. It's two pack and painted by a chap whose cars have appeared in most of the major concours events around the world including Pebble Beach.

 

In my opinion it's impossible to tell the difference between cellulose and two pack, but the latter is far more durable. Stuart is right that it's more difficult to blow in. Most do the patch in colour and then clear lacquer the panel and polish, or up to creases or natural boundaries to hide the join.

 

Another concours friend who's just restoring an Austin 12 Clifton to be the best in the world (seriously) has used cellulose because Herbert Austin did, but it wasn't easy and he had to have special paint made to get the best possible finish. Apparently ordinary cellulose isn't as good as it used to be and doesn't give the finish. Stuart will know about that.

 

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Depends on where you get it from as most ordinary suppliers only stock what they call "Industrial" cellulose these days. Which agreed isnt the same.

Stuart.

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It's a shame that modern paints get a bad name on here. Any colour can be matched if it is mixed and applied correctly :)

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It's a shame that modern paints get a bad name on here. Any colour can be matched if it is mixed and applied correctly :)

Agreed its just that not that many body shops have the analysers, the experience to use them and the time to mix to match.

Stuart.

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You just need a good paint supplier for that to be honest Stuart.

 

I gave spent many an hour working alongside Lechler paints to produce the correct colours for our cars.

 

Powder/Wedgewood blue is the worst colour to match!!! Followed by mimosa yellow.........

 

Tom

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You just need a good paint supplier for that to be honest Stuart.

 

I gave spent many an hour working alongside Lechler paints to produce the correct colours for our cars.

 

Powder/Wedgewood blue is the worst colour to match!!! Followed by mimosa yellow.........

 

Tom

I have a good one for cellulose but the local ones for anything else do leave something to be desired when it comes to matching. :( Dont forget to add BRG and any Reds to that list as well ;)

BTW are Lechler going to re-introduce there cellulose range again as had been rumored a while ago?It was always a very good material.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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Best of luck to them if its red ;)

Stuart.

 

My TR6 (Porche Guards Red) needed some touch up on the rear deck a few years ago due to a stupid error on my part. The local paint shop used a machine to get the color match and then hand tweaked the single stage paint out in the parking lot until we got an exact match. In daylight you cant see the repair but under a street light the repaired section looks orange.

 

I try not to park under street lights :)

 

Stan

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Thanks for all the above advice, and have found a local (Hereford) Lechler paint stockist doing celly. So do I invest in all the safety gear or take it down the road for priming in 2pack and then put celly topcoats on myself?

 

John

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Once you have invested in the clean air fed breathing apparatus, correct primer gun, etch primer & activator, 2k high build primer & activator & thinners oh and not forgetting the most important item when spraying the very harmful substance that is 2k paint......... FULLY COMPLIANT SPRAY BOOTH.........

 

Sorry but leave the 2k stuff to the folks that have the correct equipment.

 

Tom

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Once you have invested in the clean air fed breathing apparatus, correct primer gun, etch primer & activator, 2k high build primer & activator & thinners oh and not forgetting the most important item when spraying the very harmful substance that is 2k paint......... FULLY COMPLIANT SPRAY BOOTH.........

 

Sorry but leave the 2k stuff to the folks that have the correct equipment.

 

Tom

Hence my reading and rereading this topic on many forums, the drag of cellulose is its under performing primer filler and all the problems it can cause, but when put on right, looks just right!! But I know lots of 2 pack is used unofficially in sheds and with unsuitable gear!!

Thanks for telling us about the quality of Lechler celly

John

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This guide to Lechler painting may help. http://issuu.com/lechlersince1858/docs/painting_vintage_vehicles and will also help you understand why it cost so much for a top class paint finish ;)

Stuart.

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