preston Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 Stitching the edge of the hole is a good idea, would flatten out the area. I trimmed back both sides of the insulation on the tunnel and it still pops out when I put it in first. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted January 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 Stitching the edge of the hole is a good idea, would flatten out the area. I trimmed back both sides of the insulation on the tunnel and it still pops out when I put it in first. i didnt put any insulation between tunnel and carpet. if this gets wet it takes ages to dry. besides I glued the carpet to keep the carpet tidy. when wet i'll take the whole cover out for drying. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
simonjrwinter Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 Beautiful job, that will be a car to be proud of! Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 I do the same when I drive in the rain and the carpets get soaked. But I have underlayer fiber carpeting under the flat floor areas under the carpets, under the seats. I also have it glued to the gearbox tunnel as it came that way when new. That keeps the tunnel area cooler in hot weather. As another point, the rails under the seats were originally plated white zinc finish, but they got corroded during the first 80,300 miles of its life and in 1989, I had them sandblasted and had them painted black. It was at TRA in Ohio in 1992 that the judges docked me a part of a point because they were painted black. So later in 1992 I sprayed them with aluminium colour aerosol spray paint. Cheers Don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted January 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 (edited) Hi don, i'll accept deduction of a point i know how my old ones looked, so happy with the coating. I use a painted alu radiator, high torque starter, a 123 igntion allthough in the original housing, a battery cut-off. I recon there would be some points deducted ???? Edited January 26, 2015 by EdwinTiben Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted January 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 (edited) Got one door fitted now. Slightly worried about the panel gaps. They look too good... hopefully with the flexing of the car the doors wont damage the wings... Have tried to pull the frontwing as much as possible to the front, but the flange on the a-post to mount the rear of the wing is a fixed point... Edited January 31, 2015 by EdwinTiben Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted January 31, 2015 Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 The door does look like a snug fit Edwin. Do you have all of the door hardware on and it still closes without anything hitting ?. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted January 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 hi, the hinges, latch and striker are there. havent fitted the panel and the sidescreen socket yet. the latch clicks in the striker firmly. when in position theres no play at all. even when opening normally it doesnt hit anything, only when pressing hard on the opened door. I dont know what it will do when driving.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
preston Posted January 31, 2015 Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 Even if you could pull the wing forward you might contact the cowl by the windshield. You could put some shims behind the door hinges were they mount to the door so the door is pushed out from the side of the car. Your doors will not be flat against the side of the car though. If you drive your cars like I do I'm afraid you might do some damage. If you have some paint left you could remove some material from the front and back edge, but I'm sure you already thought of that. Getting a second batch of paint to match the first can be hard. Good luck, I can't think of an easy solution. After looking at the first picture again it looks like the door is sitting high, does not line up with the line on the side of the car. Looks like material needs to removed from the bottom also. (YUCK) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted January 31, 2015 Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 I think the door gaps on early TRs are often tight all around so sometimes the advice is to have a thinner layer of paint at the edge surfaces. I think your door looks properly positioned and the gaps are pretty uniform so to me it's pretty darn good. Mine are so tight I had some chipping at the edges, but my car is not to such a high standard as yours. Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sidescreen Posted January 31, 2015 Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 (edited) Hi Edwin, As far as me concerned nothing to worry about your door gaps, they are tight with an almost perfect parallelity. My door gaps are even as tight as yours without any chipping damage after all those 26000 miles... Not possible to add a picture anymore...You have PM ! Cheers - Raymond Edited January 31, 2015 by sidescreen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted January 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 Even if you could pull the wing forward you might contact the cowl by the windshield. You could put some shims behind the door hinges were they mount to the door so the door is pushed out from the side of the car. Your doors will not be flat against the side of the car though. If you drive your cars like I do I'm afraid you might do some damage. If you have some paint left you could remove some material from the front and back edge, but I'm sure you already thought of that. Getting a second batch of paint to match the first can be hard. Good luck, I can't think of an easy solution. After looking at the first picture again it looks like the door is sitting high, does not line up with the line on the side of the car. Looks like material needs to removed from the bottom also. (YUCK) Hi yes i thought of removing material, but that would be the last thing to do but only when driving proves chipping. The line up ar the rear of the car looks like out of line, but i just looked at it, that seems a strange thing with the light in the pictures, its not visible in real live. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted January 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 I think the door gaps on early TRs are often tight all around so sometimes the advice is to have a thinner layer of paint at the edge surfaces. I think your door looks properly positioned and the gaps are pretty uniform so to me it's pretty darn good. Mine are so tight I had some chipping at the edges, but my car is not to such a high standard as yours. Dan When we positioned the panels and doors before painting there seemed more space, so it could be the layers of paint added.. As i said, when it chips i will have to redo anyway, so probably see what happens.. The paint I used is an available color not specifically mixed. My paintshop searched for an exact match from a sample piece i had of an original car. they came up with a 50's Lambretta scooter color Grigio Fiume which was a really 100% match. So getting paint extra shouldnt be a problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted January 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 Hi Edwin, As far as me concerned nothing to worry about your door gaps, they are tight with an almost perfect parallelity. My door gaps are even as tight as yours without any chipping damage after all those 26000 miles... Not possible to add a picture anymore...You have PM ! Cheers - Raymond Hi Raymond, Thank you for the image. I can upload it if i have your permission. The gaps look very much like mine. Let wait and see what happens during driving ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sidescreen Posted January 31, 2015 Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 OK Edwin, just upload... Raymond Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted January 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 Here they are. The gaps are identical to mine ! Your car is very very nice to say the least. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted February 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2015 Before I will add the door panels, i'd like to see if i can get the new sidescreens to line up with the windscreen nicely to have it sealed enough to keep the elements out. If not i will be able to drill some new holes and adjust the wedge pockets, without any damage to the vinyl. I will wait until i have fitted the hood to see if it lines up with the edge of the hood as well. The ones i bought from Motobuild look like to fit-ish. i had to bent the legs a bit, but i have to drill new holes in the legs for the alu wedges. they are off by a cm or 2. Theres too much material on the flap, so the front side wont fit properly. the flap where the the tenax buttons will go is a bit to large too, it covers the curved section of the doors, so will have cut off some. I do am happy with the result and the way the blackberry looks on the ice blue. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 2, 2015 Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 They definitely arent the best around the bottom edge. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sidescreen Posted February 2, 2015 Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 Hi Edwin, Why not consulting: http://www.vanstraatenenzn.nl/historie.html for any side screen advice... Raymond Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted February 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 They definitely arent the best around the bottom edge. Stuart. No they are not.. the rest of the screen is very nice. The flap can be reduced by 4 cm when i look at the tenax pegs and pictures in the books. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted February 2, 2015 Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 (edited) Hi Edwin, I suggest that it would be worth checking what happens to the door when opening and shutting the door with the extra weight of the side screen etc as it will drop as soon as it becomes unlatched. best to tape the sill etc before trying. Also the leading edge seal of the sidescreen tends to force the door back and down and again closing the gap. best rgds Rod Edited February 2, 2015 by Rodbr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 2, 2015 Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 Hi Edwin, I suggest that it would be worth checking what happens to the door when opening and shutting the door with the extra weight of the side screen etc as it will drop as soon as it becomes unlatched. best to tape the sill etc before trying. Also the leading edge seal of the sidescreen tends to force the door back and down and again closing the gap. best rgds Rod Very stiff vinyl doesnt help with that and the way that front seam is sewn if its not really close to the bar. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted February 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 Hi Stuart, The frontseam on the left side fits very well into into the slot against the plate. I have asked to sow this. My former sidescreens were like this and this gives a nice waterseal and it doesnt get sucked out when driving. i have adjusted the right side yet. the lower flap is just no good, so i will draw a chalk line on it and have it sewn again locally. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted February 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 Hi Edwin, I suggest that it would be worth checking what happens to the door when opening and shutting the door with the extra weight of the side screen etc as it will drop as soon as it becomes unlatched. best to tape the sill etc before trying. Also the leading edge seal of the sidescreen tends to force the door back and down and again closing the gap. best rgds Rod Hi Rod, yes theres little left on the back so will look into it what to do, but first start drinving and see what happens. if no alternative, than grind it down and repaint. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted February 2, 2015 Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 Hi Edwin, The leading edge needs to be double stitched to create a stiffness but the stitching needs to be biased to the inside edge. I find that it needs to to be rolled in when you shut the door and if it catches the screen, the door will drop down. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.