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Rebuilding my TR2 after accident


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  • 2 weeks later...
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OK, haven't been working a lot on the car, mainly agenda issues..

 

The car is not completed yet of course but it will be home in 2 or 3 weeks !

I'm arthur very thankfull of having me there for more than a year now and his help, advice and great work.

 

This weekend i cleaned out my garage and prepaired an extra temporary workbench to shelf all the stuff ready-to-mount and assembling all the clean parts. My other workbench is for the dirty part of the job.

 

Have ordered some transparent grinding curtains, hopefully in this week to keep things tidy while working on it.

 

Next weekend I wil be building proper storage for the bodyparts like wings, and doors to keep them save while building. These will be mounted as last step.

 

so.. here it is, my own shed ;)

 

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Tremendously involved with our Euromeet is the reason for neglecting your topic a bit...

 

Back on track now! Very neat and tidy place for starting assembling! What do I see on the shelf Edwin, not the characteristic TR2 rear lamps..?

 

Cheers - Raymond

Edited by sidescreen
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Hi raymond, I heard about the succes of the euromeet ! congrats !

 

Allthough my tr is a getting a mix of early (the ice blue) and middle (number ts4762 short door), the square lights are limited to number +/- ts1300. So i think i will keep the later tr lights.

 

 

looking forward to have the tr at home.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sooo, the TR2 is back home again, after almost 1.5 years since vacation and accident.

 

Have moved the other cars in the garage to have all the space dedicated for the rebuild.

 

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OK numbers are back on the car now ! The identity is back again ;)

 

Will paint all the Stainless steel bolts when ready (nice kit from macy's garage)

 

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Some modern bits will be back on the car, like the high torque. Originality is a good thing, reliability is even better ;)

 

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You can see clearly that I used a TR3 apron, the upper side of the "mouth" is open.

 

The rest is on : https://picasaweb.google.com/114762703913347384609/RestorationTriumphTR2?authuser=0&feat=directlink

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Edwin could I suggest you check that brake pipe on full lock both ways for fouling just in case.

Stuart.

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Hi Stuart, you mean the flexible brake line ? if so, i checked this when mounting.

Thats the one, just looked as if it may foul on full lock. Must be the angle of the picture.

Stuart.

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Really enjoyed today, have done a lot, my son popped in now and then, my girlfriend brought some coffee to drink in the garage together.

 

progress of today:

 

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The fuel valve is out of order but i think it should be back in the car.

 

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Great pics again Edwin. Bring back some memories. Nice to see that the wiper motor reads '10-54', making it an October 54 item.

 

Be careful with the routing of the heater hoses under the dash. I had them nicely tucked away and routed them close to the bulkhead - perfect location. Until I punctured a hose with a self tapping screw that I'd installed through the bulkhead. Stupid mistake.

 

Menno

 

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Edited by Menno van Rij 2
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Ha, we had the Same camera inspiration!

 

I drilled all the holes first ;) will sort out the routing later after every thing is mounted.

 

The wiper is the original one. My tr is build in october 54. AlanT added a second speed, the original single speed one doesnt do

Anything...

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Got a useful tip from Rodbr About the position of the flasher unit.

 

Changed it to the specs as mentioned in the service bulletin of february 1954.

 

I wasnt able to get in a straight line with the regulator, the flasher was a bit too thick so I used an unused hole just to the left

 

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Edited by EdwinTiben
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  • 2 weeks later...

Made some progress again in the last weeks.

 

I placed the fueltank. This instantly makes the car a car again. before its 1 big flat floor and open hole.

 

Used rubber straps with the brackets and a thicker piece of rubber between boot floor and tank. I find the repro tanks from bastuck just a bit different than the original so need the rubber the position it better. Besides that, they don't seem to understand the plug line-up on the bottom. because of the new boot floor we were able to drill the holes on the right places, but beware when buying one, measure, measure..

 

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I placed the fillercap with the opener pointing to the top instead of downwards ( damaging the bootlid) or sidewards. Not original but nicer i think.

 

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Started to work on the trim too ( I know, not everything seems in the most logical order to do, but its more about what i like to add to the car and see how it looks ;) )

 

The dashboard is in place

 

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With everything behind it, nice and tidy

 

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I changed the routing of the capillary, its now a bit higher instead of what shown in the photo.

 

Behind the clocks.. with the ice blue color and the white dash theres enough light to see and find the wiring..

 

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I just bought a Lucas original cap for the distributor, with the nice lucas bossing on it. all about details :)

Notice the extra wires from the distri ? I converted my original one to 123 ignition some years ago and still happy with it. the car runs much nicer with it.

 

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Originally there should be a Lucas B12 coil, but this wont work in combination with the 123 ignition. besides that, the absurd prices of the b12 (EUR 180 or more..) is not a wise investment at this moment... more things to do/buy..

 

Started working on the front capping too. The former owner mounted an extra chrome mirror from a buick or other american, so the capping had 2 extra holes on top and was quite wrinkled. I was able to straighten out the rest.

 

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I'm not able to weld any aluminium so.. a long shot, but tried to fill the holes with regular soldering and tin, and behold....... it worked !

hopefully it will stay there...

 

Here is one hole already filled, can you find it?

 

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I used aluminium filler to straighten out the sharp dents. The problem with aluminium is that when damaged or folded the stretched material is very tricky to even out again.. well.. perhaps a panelbeater can.. i'm not :)

 

 

now the trimming. that worked quite well, not that well, there's some wrinkling in the corner which i wasnt able to avoid, there's just not enough material..

 

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The lift a dot pegs are temporary to keep the capping in place, the tenax pegs are ordered. Of course no baby tenax, but will use tenax instead of the lift a dots the former owner used.

 

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Fortunately is not that visible when in the car, so I will leave it for now.

I have some extra material to replace it sometime. for now its stuck, the glue is very fast and sticky..

 

but, quite happy with the looks,

 

 

next step will be the other cappings and the carpet (see other topic about the footwell..)

Edited by EdwinTiben
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The wrinkling often occurs when the vinyl doesnt react well with the glue. FWIW there should be a little piece of material in each corner behind the capping as there is often a little gap between the end of the dash and the capping which will show body colour.

Stuart.

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RE: "I placed the fillercap with the opener pointing to the top instead of downwards ( damaging the bootlid) or sidewards."

 

Orientation of the filler cap is a bit of a lottery. Mine have always been fitted with the button facing backwards. The problem with that is when removing the hood from the carry bag and opening or folding it up, I usually do this on the bootlid. A couple of times when working in a hurry (especially if suddenly caught in the rain) I have inadvertently knocked the button and then wondered for the next 10 miles where the petrol smell is coming from. You may have a similar problem when fitting or removing the hood from the rear centre pegs.

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My car came with the pointy filler button pointing backwards, i didn't think anything of it until I first opened the boot - tiny dint - doh

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Hi Stuart, if you look closely in the corners you'll find the material ;)

 

about the glue, i use bisontix, perhaps it reacts...?

Not a glue I know, The one I use is this http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1263-heat-resistant-adhesive.aspx but I have found this will react with some cheaper vinyl's if too much is used.

Stuart.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, the upholstery is a very time consuming process, at least without any experience with glue, vinyl and carpet fitting..

 

I personally use a step by step method, just glueing small area's which I can handle with the stretching, avoiding unintended fusing of wrong parts..

 

after some discussion on the forum about the length of the draft excluders, I used the one from the kit but re-doing the ends, to have the nice "caps".

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I have used a small round piece of vinyl, cutting a star shaped form with very subtle strings of leather. Again, glueing one area at a time: first the top of the tube, drying, than the side.

After glueing the whole part, i have stitched the seam again, to avoid any future tearing.

 

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I have glued excluders of the "a-post" first before mounting the hockey stick panels.

 

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Next steps, the carpet and the hockey sticks

 

with some good advice from Rodbr, i was able to cover the "dent" of the footwell with the carpet, following the shape.

First some heating with a hairdryer, some stretching and step by step, starting on the door side working towards the start of the footwell.

Had to do a little cut just behind the bracket for the dip switch, but not noticable.

 

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The carpet piece of the firewall, doesnt need any glue or fasteners. it sits firmly between the sides.

 

Couldnt resist temporary fitting the rest, to see what it looks like

 

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Currently working on glueing the carpet on the tunnel cover. there are some pros and cons to glueing, esp when things get wet, but i reckon I can take out the tunnelcover as a whole for drying. Of cource the floor pieces wont be glued, just like the driveshaft tunnel.

 

Today i finished the wheel arches. I posponed this for some time, i didnt think i was able to get in a straight line without any wrinkles, but with help of some tips from mark macy's: http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/wheel_arch_covers.htm

 

and some addations of my own i managed quite well.

 

Like Mark says, first draw a line on the arch where the seam will be. I tested the looks a couple of times, using duct tape on the seam of the vinyl and on the metal, then folding back the material and taking a look.

Heres marks tip:

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then glue the padding along the line.

 

Next, I diverged from marks advice. I didnt glue the vertical side of the arch, but only glued the seam of the vinyl a long the pad step by step, leaving a 4mm gap between the vinyl and the pad. This to create some room for the vinyl seam, when folding it back.

 

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I glued the lower 5 cm after i put in the carpet of the vertical area, to have a nice overlap with the piping of the wheel arch. Dont know if this was original done, but liked it this way ;)

 

had to do some adjustments to the rear piece of carpet from the kit i bought on the higher section to have it fitted in a proper way.

 

keep you posted on the next steps..

 

 

Edited by EdwinTiben
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