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vegard_s

Thrust washers again....

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So being new to this whole TR 6 and owning a classic car for that sake, I pulled out the oil sump and as I feared...

 

This is what I found:

8876652011_65f23dbd17_z.jpg

 

This one is worn here and there , but looks intact.

8877267864_96187c952a_z.jpg

Other side:

8876655451_16a79e69a1_z.jpg

 

This one on the other hand is causing me big concerns. It all torn up, it also looks like it lost a part thats melted onto

the other side of the washer.

8876654595_d1243da076_z.jpg

 

Other side:

8876653645_40194c7935_z.jpg

 

I guess I will have to take the engine apart to see the real damage. I´m afraid that this will end the season before it even started for my car this year. I´ll be quite sad if I´m not able to attend the TR European meeting here in Norway in September.

 

If someone can give me some pointers on next steps I would be greatful. Also will I be able to do most of the fixes with the engine in the bay or should I try and get it out? Not a lot of space in my garage unfortunatley.

 

regards,

Vegard

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Can't help on next steps but it may not have melted but it is possible that the thrust washer has been brazed in an attempt to stop it dropping out.

 

I made such a discovery on a TR6 engine.

 

Mark.

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Some more pictures, I´d like any opinions of the condition of the engine based on what you see from the pictures.

I know it won´t be the complete picture but I guess what I´m asking is will it be enough to get new standard washers in and will it keep me going for this season?

 

I was planning on doing a full engine rebuild this winter with some head work too.

 

/ Vegard

 

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8878015960_9fbc83f981_z.jpg8877400259_3942452de1_z.jpg

8878019110_d350be6958_z.jpg

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Guest ntc

Sorry to say but I suspect your block is shot/ kaput

Edited by ntc

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Hi Vegard.

 

From the pictures I would suggest that it would be dangerous just to replace the thrust washers, the bearing cap looks much the worse for wear. The engine is not U/S, it is possible to have a complete, full circle, thrust washer made & the bearing cap machined to receive this. The new thrust washer is pinned to the bearing cap & you'll never wear it out if done correctly.

I know a local machine shop who have done work for me & can do this work, but you should look in Norway first. The only thing to remember is it aint quick & it aint cheap.

cheers

Dave Worne

Group Leader

Derbyshire Dales group

TR Register

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Guest ntc

Dave

By the looks of it from here there is not enough meat left to do that, the crank is also in the same boat. You cannot replace the caps without line boring ,I would have thought it would be cheaper to find another engine to recondition

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Guess the question then is will I be able to get a couple of thousand km out the engine with new washers, just to keep it

on the road this summer?

 

Then I can pull everything a part and review the full state of the engine after the season.. which is quite short here in Norway the last couple of years.

 

/ Vegard

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Hi Vegard,

was the engine going before you took the sump off? If yes then some sort of re-assembly with thrust washers in place should get you going for the summer.

 

The problem you have is how do you keep the TW's in place - I'm sur eit can be done on a temporary basis.

 

I know it sounds crazy and not a good engineering fix but would 'JB Weld' (expoy adhesive/filler) help to hold things in place.

 

Give it a go you have little to lose.

 

Roger

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Sigh... Current end float, 0.109", maybe a tiny bit too much.

 

/ V

the bearing cap can be machined like this but you will need a new crank as the face is badly scored.

put new thrust washers in and the crank will chew the rear one up pretty quick.

richard

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post-2190-0-26594200-1369860251_thumb.jpg

post-2190-0-76382800-1369860640_thumb.jpg

Edited by rpurchon

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the bearing cap can be machined like this but you will need a new crank as the face is badly scored.

put new thrust washers in and the crank will chew the rear one up pretty quick.

richard

Thanks for that. Engine has been running smoothly before this happened so hopefully I can push it through the summer.

 

Would you say I could recondition the crank or would I need a brand new one?

 

/ Vegard

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Thanks for that. Engine has been running smoothly before this happened so hopefully I can push it through the summer.

 

Would you say I could recondition the crank or would I need a brand new one?

 

/ Vegard

the rear crank bearing face needs machining flat and smooth.BIG lathe reqd.then gap would probably be too big for oversize thrust washers.

cheaper to get a second hand or new crank.

put some thrust washers back in and keep checking to get you through the summer,you will get good at taking the sump off.

 

good excuse to go to the tr international for a holiday in uk me thinks! unless you can get a crank there.

richard

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good excuse to go to the tr international for a holiday in uk me thinks! unless you can get a crank there.

richard

 

Maybe someone will bring one over to the European TR meeting here in Norway in September, save me the cost of shipping.. :)

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That looks quite bad. The block/main-cap may be recoverable but I think the crank has probably had it - just too much material removed. Just maybe you could get it metal sprayed and recovered that way.

 

You may find this website useful: http://www.customthrustwashers.com/

 

Both crankshafts and blocks are still reasonably available in UK as they are the same as used in the 2.5 saloons. The block is also the same as Mk2 2000 saloons and Vitesse Mk2 / GT6 Mk2 & 3. I have crankshaft (short-back type) if you get really stuck. Std sizes but probably needs a grind. Postage would be quite serious though as they weight about 30kgs!

 

Cheers

 

Nick

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Hopefully I can push the engine through the summer. I will definitely get the custom washers when I rebuild it during the winter.

 

I will be starting the sourcing of a new crank in Norway. Might have a friend with some old engines.

 

/ Vegard

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I can get heavy items shipped up to Bardufoss, but the containers won,t arrive there until the end of November. Also, that may be a bit too far North, but let me know if I can help deliver stuff for the winter rebuild.

 

Andy.

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A crankshaft to Norway, well packaged, isn't going to cost more than £50 on Interparcel UPS.

 

PM me if you need any advice on shipping, it's easy enough - and crankshafts are not that hard to find in the UK.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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Thanks guys for the suggestions. Are there any good lists of donor engines/crankshafts?

I do recall seeing such a list with engine prefix/numbers listed but can't seem to find it now.

 

/ Vegard

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So I had a short trip to a friend of mine and got myself a MM block and a crankshaft. The crankshaft is a 311313 which is also the same as I have in mine.

We´re not sure what engine this really is, since this engine was owned by his brother for many years but unfortunatley he passed away 8-9 years ago.

We thought it was a 2000 engine but since the crank is the same as in mine we think it possibly is a 2500 engine. We haven´t taken the head off the block yet so I´m not sure if there are any other ways of identifying the origins of the engine.

 

It looks like it was in good condition together with the TW´s and the bearings.

 

8924462099_09a592b01e_z.jpg

 

8925077856_4c5049612d_z.jpg

 

8925085500_fda0d17032_z.jpg

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So I finally got the block out to assess the state of the block after running withouth TW's for some time.

 

Here's some pictures of it. Guess I will start the rebuild using the MM block based on these.

 

9349773506_337b707784_z.jpg

9346989925_f233c520f0_z.jpg

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