Royzeboyze Posted May 19, 2013 Report Share Posted May 19, 2013 Have a TR7 with a Dolly engine. Have been working on it all day. First I started with the timing, which was very hard because the adjusting nuts on the distributor are hard to undo owing to the manifold in the way, have ordered a set of crows foot spanners. Eventually adjusted 10 degrees BTDC. Timing was firing about 4 degrees ATDC. Cleaned all plugs which were very black, reset to 25 thou. Connected all plugs to their leads, and turned it over, lovely spark on all four. Fitted plugs back with leads. Fitted new pump as the old one was original, plenty of fuel being pumped, took two plugs out, dry. Pulled dampers up and there was fuel in the jets. Took tops off carbs, floats OK, level good, no floats sticking down. Emptied both float chambers and filled with fresh fuel. Filled tank with V Power about a month ago. The car was running when put away last. If there was a leak in the piping which goes to both carbs it would still try to start. Is it the rotor arm. The battery is fully charged. Turned it over again not even a stutter. Very frustrated at the moment. Have tried putting throttle right to the floor, still nothing. Would it be something to do with the ignition? Any answers welcome. Royzeboyze Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted May 19, 2013 Report Share Posted May 19, 2013 If there's spark and fuel it should at least chug/stutter/backfire. If it getting air - are the butterflies opening? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Royzeboyze Posted May 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2013 If there's spark and fuel it should at least chug/stutter/backfire. If it getting air - are the butterflies opening? Getting plenty of air, not a murmer, never had anything like this, have had over 60 cars over 57 years. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted May 19, 2013 Report Share Posted May 19, 2013 (edited) Puzzling. Even if the spark is really badly out, eg wrong firing order, you should get some signs of firing/misfiring. Getting sparks at the plugs suggests its not rotor arm faulty or missing. Did you check the spark with plugs earthed on engine or body- engine earth lead? Or weak battery, only makes sparks when starter not active? After checking the plugs for sparks you have to remove the leads to screw them in. So are the leads making contact with the plugs in situ? - maybe the dust seals on the leads are preventing proper fitting? Edited May 20, 2013 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Kirk Posted May 20, 2013 Report Share Posted May 20, 2013 I had a similar situation a few years back where I could see a spark with the plugs out but could not get the car to start.Turned out to be the coil breaking down under load. A different coil maybe worth a try? Cheers Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Royzeboyze Posted May 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2013 I had a similar situation a few years back where I could see a spark with the plugs out but could not get the car to start.Turned out to be the coil breaking down under load. A different coil maybe worth a try? Cheers Phil Will try the coil Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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