whone Posted May 7, 2013 Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 Chaps you may recall recent posts regarding oil leak in my tr4a. Replaced seals etc etc. But not with success. Final attempt by steam cleaning bottom of engine, running and then visually checking led me to the dip stick. It has always been a very loose fit. So manufactured a rubber flange to push into d/stick hole to tighten up. And opened up the twin "blades" of the dip stick to create a tight fit. But still some oil accumulating on the floor of garage after a decent run. (Less I think than before). Question : how important is it that the dip stick be firmly and tightly in place. I have very good oil pressure when running. I can't remember any other cars I have had in much earlier life needing a 100% seal at the dipstick. Help !! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 7, 2013 Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 There should be a felt washer/seal under the dipstick stopper. However if you have high crankcase pressure then oil will be blown by the seal. Check the tube off the rocker and the PCV for blockage. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whone Posted May 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 Hi Roger Thank you for your advice. Tube is fine. Is there a way to check if it is the PCV valve WITHOUT dismantling the unit. For example run the car with the tube free from the PCV unit. I realise the car may run eratically BUT if there is NO oil escape from the dispstick it will show me that it IS the PCV(and high pressure) and then I can undertake this work. Just a thought. Thanks Nick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
New Bloke Posted May 8, 2013 Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 I would have been more impressed if the title had been "No oil leak on my TR" I once had the back end of my chassis rebuilt because the oil doesn't spray far enough back to protect it, while the front of the chassis was a good as the day it left the factory Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 8, 2013 Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 Hi Nick, that sounds like a good method. No leak = dodgy PCV. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whone Posted May 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 New Bloke. Thats funny. I've had all the lines about marking territory, chasis protection, not a triumph without a leak BUT .....! Roger I'll give this a go. Actually a friend of mine suggested temporarily removing the tube from the PCV and inserting and taping it into a plastic bottle with air holes in order to catch any flying debris and oil ! Thanks again. I'll post my results ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted May 9, 2013 Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 A PCV works with a good engine but may not clear the crankcase if you are getting a lot of combustion gas passing the piston rings. Certainly worth a trial with the crankcase open to atmosphere via a down tube to see what happens. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badfrog Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 That's my current problem with MdW, but it's been going on for years. The car blows at high speed (above 4500 rpm in 4th) but not below. Everything has been checked OK, including the compressions (engine stopped of course). My idea is that the block dilates when hot and progressively looses the chamber/piston rings snug fit, hence some blow-by occurs, while everything is OK under mild use. The funny thing is that my previous engine was absolutely OK, when this one has been blowing from the start, although the piston/chamber combo has been changed. I'm with the 87 mm spec now. Any idea? What can I do without dismantling the wretched thing? Badfrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 My engine is on 89mm pistons and has the Racestorations oil tank, but it suffers exactly the same as JF's car, i.e. blow-by at high revs. This has only happened since my rebuild last year, which included new rings (Deves) and the bores honed. I was hoping the blow-by would stop after running for a while but it has now done around 5000 miles and still does it. I would also be interested to hear if there is a solution, or does it just need more miles to bed in? Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badfrog Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 Graeme, I believe you have the right approach. We've been to cautious during bedding-in. I think we should whip the darn thing merciless until the rings catch on the walls and the fit gets snug again. And if we blow the banger, so be it, it will be like going back in time, when we had that extra right foot. Badfrog, no more Mr Nice guy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 As one of the old boys who taught me spannering a very long time ago used to say "Run it in like you mean to go on boy!" (Check it for leaks and then red line straight out of the box was his mantra) Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whone Posted May 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 Chaps, drip threads will run for years. Just to follow up if anyone can shed more light. My oil pool arrives on the ground only after at least an hour of standing after a run. During the next 48 hours it accuumulates and results in a more than acceptable "puddle". I repeat nothing happens for at least an hour. As if the oil is settling top to bottom and finding a way out. The only oil I can find on the block is actually around the underneath of the sump lip at the front where it fixes to the bottom of the block. IT IS NOT THE DIP STICK AS I THOUGHT. I ran the car with the area round the dipstick spotless (and it remained spotless) and with the hose removed from the PCV so it is not the PCV either !! Any more thoughts from you experts ? Part from that I have a very smooth and crisp engine !! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 Check the front engine plate for straightness and the chain case cover the same. Also check the sump for straight on its mating flange and for any damage/pin holes from rust. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 (edited) Chaps, drip threads will run for years. Just to follow up if anyone can shed more light. My oil pool arrives on the ground only after at least an hour of standing after a run. During the next 48 hours it accuumulates and results in a more than acceptable "puddle". I repeat nothing happens for at least an hour. As if the oil is settling top to bottom and finding a way out. The only oil I can find on the block is actually around the underneath of the sump lip at the front where it fixes to the bottom of the block. IT IS NOT THE DIP STICK AS I THOUGHT. I ran the car with the area round the dipstick spotless (and it remained spotless) and with the hose removed from the PCV so it is not the PCV either !! Any more thoughts from you experts ? Part from that I have a very smooth and crisp engine !! Nick, Do you have an alloy sump? Some of these are porous in places and it could be that as the oil drains into the sump, the oil level increases to the point where it is porous and leaks. If not an alloy sump you could have a small hole or split in the tin sump. Cheers Graeme Edited May 16, 2013 by graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hothersall Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 "The only oil I can find on the block is actually around the underneath of the sump lip at the front where it fixes to the bottom of the block" One other component to consider is the front sealing block (very poorly machined) and the associated cork Ts. I have a sizable leak from this area which can be stemmed with silicone sealant before eventually removing this block and dressing it so the Ts locate better John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted May 17, 2013 Report Share Posted May 17, 2013 There's a horizontal oil gallery running parallel to and beneath the camshaft. This gallery has 3 hex-headed, brass plugs along its length, and each is sealed with a copper washer. If the thread of the plug bottoms in the block before it has compressed the washer tightly, there will be a leak, and it is quite difficult to determine that this is the source. My car developed a leak at the foremost of these plugs after some 15 years of use. Because of turbulence in the air at that point, the oil ran forward and appeared to emanate from the front of the engine. After many months of oil puddles and fruitless searching, I took the car to Revington's. With the car on a lift with engine running, Carl Kiddell was able to trace the source. Using an additional copper washer and PTFE tape, the problem was fixed. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 17, 2013 Report Share Posted May 17, 2013 Hi Nick, if you really need to find the source of your leak then you could try coating the block/head in 'french chalk' - not as crazy as it sounds. Clean the engine and let it dry. Using an aerosol of 'Dye penetrant developer' (have a look on ebay) spray all or individual sections of the block/head. Take for a drive and sit back and wait. Where the leak comes from will leave a very clear snail trail. If the first attempts show a large area then you can redo in smaller patches to home in on the devil. The 'developer' washes off with white spirit etc. This method is used on aircraft engines with good success. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whone Posted May 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2013 Thanks chaps. Every suggestion takes me closer to resolving this long running saga. Your help is invaluable. One day I will celebrate ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cliveinfrance Posted June 8, 2013 Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 Hi everyone Just returned from 3 weeks in Portugal with TR Register France.... and every day we had a pool of oil under the car... got quite embarrassing and I was sure we would end up running dry... we seemed to put more oil than petrol in the car.... our friends merely remarked that it would not be a real English car if it did not leak oil.. but I did not find that comforting.. No doubt Clive will be following up some of your suggestions on how to identify exactly where the leak originates and get it sorted.. once he has recovered from the dash home. The rest of the group flew home and had their cars transported... only us Brits were brave enough (mad enough) to do the whole trip by road! Well done you forumites !! Great to have such info readily at hand. Stella Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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