TR6 Oil seal and Clutch

[zzzzdave]

Hi after some advice and peoples view point

 

taking the gearbox out of the TR6 this weekend as J type overdrive is acting up and its going for a rebuild to Sheffield overdrive services .

 

whilst gearbox is out, , i,ll change cross shaft PIN which is a given

 

Should i change clutch plate /release bearing - they are not giving any problem, but its unknown when clutch was last changed)

 

If I change clutch plate any recommendations ??? manufacturers /suppliers

 

Should i change Main Crank Oil seal , is it easily done when Gearbox is out ? , Bottom of engine is wet with oil , not sure where from though

 

thanks

 

Dave

 

 

[Jersey Royal]

 

 

Hi after some advice and peoples view point

 

taking the gearbox out of the TR6 this weekend as J type overdrive is acting up and its going for a rebuild to Sheffield overdrive services .

 

whilst gearbox is out, , i,ll change cross shaft PIN which is a given

 

Should i change clutch plate /release bearing - they are not giving any problem, but its unknown when clutch was last changed)

 

If I change clutch plate any recommendations ??? manufacturers /suppliers

 

Should i change Main Crank Oil seal , is it easily done when Gearbox is out ? , Bottom of engine is wet with oil , not sure where from though

 

thanks

 

Dave

 

 

Just helped a mate a similar job on his Tr6.

 

Crossshaft pin is a must do, when you have box out, have a look at cross shaft bushes any movement on crosshaft bushes require replacement.

Consider fitting secondary pin to fork if one isnt fitted.

 

 

Have a look for ware on existing clutch cover and plate, and if there is consider replacement.

 

The clutch i have in mine and also fitted to my mates is this, for fast road,, works nicely

 

http://www.performanceclutch.co.uk/p0/tr6-1969-1975/233130.htm

 

Of course there are others.

 

Oil seal is and easy job, having removed flywheel, get a replacement spigot bush.

 

With flywheel off you will have a full view of the rear oil seal and can decide then if it needs replacement, should be

self evident

 

With oil seal renew copper washer. and gasket, be careful of the two sump bolts which screw up into the ally part,

dont over tighten.

 

Also have a look at the Release Bearing and carrier.

 

Cheers

Guy

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/40534-bodged-up-croshaft-fork/

Edited May 3, 2013 by Jersey Royal

[Damson6]

Well it could be the Front Engine Sealing Block behind the bottom of the timing cover, the threads in the alloy block strip quite easily!

Best to clean the engine and then check for leaks.

[zzzzdave]

Thanks for the advice

 

one question around the additional secondary/supplemenatry pin in the cross shaft, how is this done? do u drill and tap a thread in the carrier???? have you any pictures

 

thanks Dave

[Jersey Royal]

Thanks for the advice

 

one question around the additional secondary/supplemenatry pin in the cross shaft, how is this done? do u drill and tap a thread in the carrier???? have you any pictures

 

thanks Dave

Hi Dave

 

The taper pin will most likely need to be lapped in. Get some lapping paste and apply to hole in cross shaft and keep turning the pin in the shaft

until its end goes through the crosshaft. Then try in fork on crosshaft. Make sure you remove all reminents of the paste, with petrol or brake cleaner.

 

We used a 4mm roll pin. To fit this we assembled the fork on the shaft off the gearbox. Fitted the fork and shaft in a pillar drill and with a fresh 4mm drill bit drill a hole straight through both. Of course then take it all apart, reassemble in gearbox, fitting pin (dont forget the wire) then fitted roll pin with knocking stick. The excess of the pin was cut off with a dremel

 

Have a look here

 

http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchShaft/ClutchShaft.htm

 

 

I did not take many pics but my mate did , i will see if he can post a few.

 

Cheers

GUY

[zzzzdave]

thats great, thanks for the advice, think i will put a supplementary fixing, now off to get gearbox out

 

Dave

[Jersey Royal]

thats great, thanks for the advice, think i will put a supplementary fixing, now off to get gearbox out

 

Dave

Hi Dave,

 

Had fun ?

 

Mates off Island this weekend so no photos.

 

Dont forget when it comes to putting box back in the align it with Dowel Bolts.

I have found if i use 4 in long bolts in two positions it helps in getting the box aligned for engagement, then remove

fit dowel bolts.

 

Plus new nylocs will be required at the propshaft.

 

Dont mean to teach you too suck eggs etc.

 

Cheer

GUY

 

Plus, i didnt mention , once flywheel is off you will then have to remove the rear engine plate 6 or seven bolts

then rear oil seal will be visible. If you are removing rear oil seal casing with sump on take care you dont damage the sump gasket.

Edited May 4, 2013 by Jersey Royal

[Guest ntc]

This may help Guy,and to add on new flywheel bolts and loctight them

Edited May 4, 2013 by ntc

[Jersey Royal]

This may help Guy,and to add on new flywheel bolts and loctight them

Indeed

 

Thats the one

 

Cheers

Guy

[graeme]

Dave,

 

As the clutch on these cars is marginal at best, I would remove the bushes on the cross shaft and put two new bushes in each side to spread the load. Any unwanted movement of the clutch components should be removed to give it the best chance to operate correctly.

 

Cheers

 

Graeme

[Jersey Royal]

Plus

 

Dont forget to tie the crosshaft level forward to one of the holes around the bell,

to prevent the release bearing from slipping off .

 

Cut and pull out the tie prior to buttoning it all up

 

Cheers

GUY

[zzzzdave]

Guys thanks for all the fantastic advice, i,ll let you know if any problems

 

thanks Dave