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Bosch fuel pump confusion


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Hi

 

I have been trawling through the forum to get information on the best fuel pump to replace the bosch pump I have installed

 

I cannot find a part number on the existing pump. With bosch changing some part numbers it's all seems a bit confusing.

 

So looking at other threads in the forum I could references to the following pumps

 

Bosch 0 580 254 040/sytec P3022.1 (sytec appears to be a in tank model)

Bosch 0 580 254 910/sytec P3019.1

 

My question is what is the best bosch or sytec pump for the TR6 today?

 

I am planning purchasing the prestige pvr to see if this assist in reducing noise.

 

Thanks

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Hi

I decided to opt for the Bosch motorsports 044 pump, this has been fine for the last 4 years.

 

The only down side was the resonance that I experianced when I first fitted it.

The uprated version from Prestige didnt make any difference and was a waste of money.

I cured it by fitting a longer pipe from the pump to the PRV.

The pipe is approx 2.0m long.

Cheers

Mark

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FYI. My 1971 TR6 PI was fitted with a bosch 0-580254-952, and working fine. However, being a new owner, I was not able to find out how many years this pump had operated for. So on 26th June 2012, I changed it out for a Sytec Part Num OTP 019, and no problems to date. The Sytec does however draws 8 1/4 Amps (the bosch drew 7 Amps). So its wise to have the correct +12V and earth cable size to handle this Amperage. The bosch pump is now an emergency spare.

 

Alan G

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  • 10 months later...

Help please

My Lucas pump packed up so I have ordered and received a replacement kit from a well known TR parts supplier. It turns out to be the Sytec 3019.1 pump as mentioned above

I am worried about the wiring though. The original feed wire to the Lucas pump appears to be thinner than the connection lead to the new pump, I note that a poster above states the new pump draws about 8 amps and the original Lucas only 3-4? The supplier states that the original cabling is OK providing it is in good condition??

 

Should I fit a new feed and relay, or is the original cable sufficient?

 

kc

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Hi KC

definitely upgrade the wiring and fit a relay - cheap 5 minute job to save your car from future catastrophe!

 

Found a good historic post on it here: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/39212-bosch-fuel-pump-relay/?hl=%2Bfuel+%2Brelay includes a brief hijack from a spammer that must have been missed at the time! Good advice on the options, wiring and relay to for + considerations for if you have an ammeter.

 

Regards,

Michael

Edited by CONCRETE24
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The original cable was marginal for the Lucas pump even when new, and it was common enough for dealers to replace the pump feed with heavier cable when the cars were still under warranty . . . . . and at the risk of stating the obvious, the pump also needs a good earth.

 

Bosch pumps ought to last 100+K miles, which is what you'd expect from them in a hard working OE installation, Audi Quattro for example.

 

A typical TR installation and the Bosch pump can be knacked in a tenth of that mileage.

 

You need a heavyweight power feed, some cooling air flow, the pump mounted horizontally not vertically and preferably onto a heat sink, and decent size filters with a good throughflow - designed for an injection system in other words, not some tiddly little excuse for a filter that will strangle the pump. Decent pipework too, Revington and Glencoe are good sources for quality pipework that will tolerate biofuel.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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My Lucas pump is over 40 years old and works fine!

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Just to prove you can only speak in generalities on a subject like this; my Bosch pump has done well over 100,000 miles!

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Thanks for all your replies, a new bit of wiring required then!

 

Is it easier to buy an off the shelf wiring kit (about £35) or source all the separate bits and make your own. I assume the new wiring connects to the spare fuse on the main fuse block?

 

kc

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Take the new feed wire from the battery terminal, through a new seperate fuse in engine compartment close to battery, then take wire through car alonf inner cill to a 'sealed' relay in the boot, use a min of 2.5mm ptfe sleeved wire, (4mm if you can get it) use multi strand as its bends easier. Put a hidden keyswitch in the boot for the pump earth as an extra anti theft device.

 

Bob

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Dont forget that any upgrading of the wiring to the fuel pump must still go through an inertia cut out switch.

Stuart.

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Hi Allan,

 

presumably then your Bosch pump is a proper installation . . . . they do last well if they are plumbed-in correctly in the first place. Too many TR specialists installed Bosch pumps inadequately - at least some of them in the full knowledge that it would result in a future work flow replacing items.

 

Hi Denis,

 

Lucas pumps can be reliable enough, especially if given a better power feed and mounted horizontally as per the saloon - nothing wrong with them, except too many cr*p rebuilders, and owners fiddling where they shouldn't.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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Dont forget that any upgrading of the wiring to the fuel pump must still go through an inertia cut out switch.

Stuart.

Like Stuart says, take the relay feed from the inertia cutout.

 

I installed the relay in the boot, simply feed it from the existing wiring and add a new, fused and adequate gauge, wire to feed the pump.

 

Also be sure the earth is good, many people upgrade the positive feed and forget the earth, it's just as important !

 

Steve

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