Glenn_Howard Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 Hi I've been stripping down the front and rear brakes on my 1963 TR4 pending a thorough overhaul and fitment of new parts where needed. I'm also wondering whether it might be worthwhile replacing all the hub bearings while I'm there. How difficult is it to pull the front and rear hubs off? I have a three-armed hydraulic puller in the garage somewhere, is that up to the job or will I need a special tool? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Glenn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve R Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 Glenn The fronts are easy, you wont need a puller, the rear is a different matter altogether, unless there is a problem with them I'd leave them alone, the puller would not be up to the job. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 Do not touch the rear hubs unless you have access to the correct puller. The local garage with a 20 Ton press will most probably, end up bending the flange. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glenn_Howard Posted April 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 Thanks. I've been researching old posts and your combined opinions seem to match the consensus. I'll leave the rear hubs well alone until it becomes an actual problem. Glenn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 10, 2013 Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 Just check the end float of the two axle shafts in the axle and rectify as required. Tolerance is in the service manual . Eight thou comes to mind. Just check to be sure. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 10, 2013 Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 The only real way to pull the hubs is with one of these. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted April 10, 2013 Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 That would have been handy Stuart, I purchased a new 20 tone bench press and they let go just before the jack handle was about to bend. They came off with an allmighty bang. Totally stuffed the hubs but you get that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JANA Posted April 10, 2013 Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 Stuart, Know the puller well, it's good un! Designed by a guy called Don Welch, Design Mgr. at VLC, and signed off for production by 'yours truly'. Special casting, and built like a brick convience! When I was at Jag / Rover / Triumph in the 70's , the Service Training Schools were rationalised under BLMH , Lord Stokes, and can remember skip loads of VLC Specilal Tools being scrapped as surplus to requirements. Wished I'd put a set , or two, of Triumph Tools away! Especially the gearbox and axle tools. They are becoming priceless today. Oh well ! Cheers Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRikki Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 I managed to borrow an example of the above pictured Churchill Tool from another Register Member. Should there be a 'real' reason to remove the rear hubs, then I believe that this is the safest route to take. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 I hope the lender of the tool has given you guidance on its use. IF NOT:- Do it on the car. - the axle case holds the shaft a lot better than any vice I have ever used. Remove the big nut, split pin and washer from the axle shaft end. Insert a short length of steel rod in the hole where the split pin goes. Not so long as it pokes out either side as you need to refit the nut. Screw the big nut back on slots first (the wrong way round - till the top of the nut is flush with the axle end. Clean face of tool and drive flange thoroughly. Oil/grease the threads of the tool and the ball end that contacts the axle shaft end. Fit tool using orig wheel nuts and tighten all four evenly. - just like fitting a road wheel. Stop the tool and hub from turning with a bar inserted in the side hole of the tool flange. Start winding the tool big nut with a socket and breaker bar. - do not get keen and use a scaffold pole to gain leverage or you may wreck the threads of the tool. Stop the tool and hub from turning with a bar inserted in the side hole of the tool flange. When as tight as you can go without jumping on it or resorting to levers - strike the end of the big nut with a 5lb lump or sledge hammer. **If it all went 'soft' before this point the hammer strike will not be required as you have either extracted the flange, stripped a wheel stud or ruined the tool.** Keep checking as you tighten the tool big nut. There will be a mettalic 'pop' when the flange releases and the tool will go loose. Now demount the tool. Remove the big half shaft hub nut and drive out the short piece of steel rod you inserted to stop the tool from collapsing the split pin hole. To change the bearing you will now have to remove the half shaft assy from the axle. On inspection 9 times out of 10 you will find the bearings are perfect but the seal is very unwell. The bearing and seals are the same as Dolomite Sprint. In the 25 years of doing this particular job I only ever resorted to heat a couple of times, as that is the last resort. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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