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TR6 Clutch bleeding problems


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Hi , been working on the TR6 today and decided to change the clutch hose as it had a slight weep on it .

 

Changed the hose for a Goodridge braided one from Rimmers , amd now the clutch is dragging , i have bleed the system 4 times now, and checked all joints for tightness, but still not quite enough clearance on clutch to engage 1st or reverse

 

The clutch was fine before i started, with no issues with clearance etc .

 

Could it be the new hose?

 

Car is fitted with 0.70 master cylinder?

 

no wear on clevis pins

 

Slave cylinder mounted correctly- and on middle slot of operating arm

 

slave cylinder seals now changed as a precaustion after i could not get the clearance , made no difference

 

any ideas or suggestions

 

Do i put the old pipe back on and try it as it was

 

Do i upgrade to a 0.75 master cylinder

 

Could master cylinder be suspect , but it was alright before i changed flexible pipe

 

Could the dreaded Pin have snapped on the clutch fork, but that would be one hell of a coincedence

 

looking for some inspiration what to do next , very frustrating day grrrrrrr

 

 

 

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Hi Dave,

refit the old pipe - bleed and adjust. If it works then the new pipe is suspect.

If the problem persists then disconnect the slave cylinder rod to lever arm and see how much movement there is on the cross shaft - surely the taper pin wouldn;t break just because you fitted anew hose.

 

Is the slave cylinder bleed nippple at the top of the cylinder. It is easy to install it at the bottom.

 

Roger

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Roger Hi

thanks for your thoughts, yes the bleed nipple at the top,

 

I will be changing back to the original Pipe in the morning , to see if it clears the fault, i will aslo check the cross shaft for play

 

any thoughts on the master cylinder being at fault, could draining the fluid have disturbed it some how

 

cheers

 

Dave

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You seem to have drained this and filled with fresh fluid.

 

1. sometimes you entrap air in the fluid when re-filling if you "slosh it about" too much

 

2. sometimes this will get itself out of the reservoir if you let it stand so that if you bleed the whole thing again it comes good.

 

3. there is always a risk that the master cylinder seal will be impaired when you refill. This is why I always use the air-pressure

method, rather than pumping the pedal, to bleed these things.

 

Al.

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To bleed the clutch hose on my 1958 TR3A, I fill the reservoir and open the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. The fluid drains down by gravity and when it comes out the bottom, I know that the hose is full. Then I close the bottom bleed valve and add what's needed to top up the reservoir and it's all done.

Edited by Don Elliott
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Another option is to bleed it from bottom up. Go and buy a cheap pump action oil can, clean it out with meths, let it dry and fill with brake fluid. Attach a bit of clear airline tubing to the slave nipple and the end of the oil can. Pump the brake fluid up the system and when it appears in the master reservoir then its full.

I had to use this method on my (now somewhat bent) 6 to get the clutch to bleed properly. I don't think bleeding is helped by the swan neck in the clutch line, and air gets trapped in the upper part of the tubing.

Hope it helps.

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Dave

I had this problem myself last year and eventually traced the fault to the master cylinder piston not returning all the way out to the circlip and washer, it fell short of it's travel by only a couple of mm or so but it was enough to give me a headache (and a few choice words!)

Once it had been stripped, cleaned and reassembled it bled through with just an initial couple off pumps and then good old gravity did the rest - result - perfect pedal

Hope this is of some help

Graham

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Reading the other posts reminds that at CLM 2008 we had to do a leaky clutch slave repair but ended up with the master inpieces as well.

 

Due to seized unions and rounded nuts we had the M/C removed from the bracket, held above the car so that the airlock in the pipe (that crossed the bulkhead) would

percolate out.

A real head scratcher.

 

Roger

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Guys

now sorted it, bought a Gunson easibleed from halfords and this worked the trick forcing the air straight out

 

highly recommended piece of kit, very simple principle , one man use so didnt have to disturb the wife to pump the pedal

 

suns shining so i can get her out for a run

 

happy now

 

thanks for all the advice

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  • 7 years later...

I take it that you have opened the bleed screw on the slave cylinder but, not before attaching a plastic pipe/hose first the other end immersed in a partially filled jam jar of brake fluid; though a "easy bleed" would make things a lot easier.

However, if when you open the bleed screw and nothing comes down the pipe when you or an assistant presses the clutch pedal this indicates that there is a blockage somewhere, most likely in the master cylinder in which case you will have to remove and disassemble the master cylinder and check and or replace the rubbers. While it is disassembled check that all the holes are free from debris and that the inside of the cylinder is not scoured, if it is then you will have to replace it.

While I'm thinking about it, make sure that you fit the bleed screw above the pipe in the slave cylinder.

Hope this helps and that I'm not telling you how to suck eggs,

Jon.  

 

Edited by scousegit
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On 4/6/2013 at 9:02 PM, zzzzdave said:

Roger Hi

thanks for your thoughts, yes the bleed nipple at the top,

 

I will be changing back to the original Pipe in the morning , to see if it clears the fault, i will aslo check the cross shaft for play

 

any thoughts on the master cylinder being at fault, could draining the fluid have disturbed it some how

 

cheers

 

Dave

Sometimes the piston return spring inside the master cyl. breaks up or goes soft. Both of which can cause problems with bleeding and operation. I personally would only use the .75 cylinder as it gives more movement on the slave cyl.?

Bruce.

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