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Rack and Pinion


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Gents,

 

I would appreciate your wisdom regarding the pros and cons of the currently available steering conversion kits....ease of fitting...etc

 

Also...can I retain the steering wheel hub controls after conversion?

 

Rob

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I used the Protek conversion bolt on kit and found it easy to install. Protek were also easy to deal with they've sold hundreds. I was lucky they threw in steel Tr3 dash. You need a split type steering column to start with though.

 

You do also need to be careful if you have a non standard exhaust manifold.

 

I used a mini type column mounted Trafficator switch. And a horn button on the dash.

The How to Restore Sidescree TR book has all the options for this

Steering is much nicer and I also fitted a Mota Lita woodrim dished wheel but a flat 15" would be better. I have fat TR6 wire wheels with Michelins and parking is very easy

Hope this helps. Bill G@NB

 

Horn, Trafficator switch won't wor

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Rob

Check out this previous thread which has info on how you can retain the original horn / trafficator functions after R&P conversion. I will be attempting this in a few weeks, but can't say from experience how easy / effective it is...

 

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/31999-tr3a-rack-and-pinion-electrical-changes/?hl=loom

 

Malcolm

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Gents,

 

I would appreciate your wisdom regarding the pros and cons of the currently available steering conversion kits....ease of fitting...etc

 

Also...can I retain the steering wheel hub controls after conversion?

 

Rob

Rob,

 

None of the kits can allow you to retain the hub controls in their original form because they do away with the stator tube which went right through the steering box and provided an anchoring point for the control head. There are various slip ring options (Bastuck as mentioned by Stuart) or home made varieties that can allow you to keep the horn and the indicators functions but because of the lack of stator tube, the control head will rotate with the steering wheel and making the indicators self cancelling will be a challenge.

 

The Revington kit which is claimed to avoid bump steer requires welding to the chassis, there are a number of others which are a bolt on fitment but Neil Revington warns that they might not address the bump steer problem.

 

Rgds Ian

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Whatever conversion you choose I should insist on one that addressed bump steer. The difference in a car that is sorted and one that isn't is mega and enhances the steering and precise cornering of the car.

 

Mick Richards.

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If anyone's interested when I fitted a rack & pinion steering to my TR3A I fitted a Mini Cooper Mk.2 indicator/horn/ flasher/ headlight control to my 1960 TR3A.

It's easy!

Just PM me your email address and I'll send photo's.

This is where the TRaction magazine let's us all badly down. Instead of publishing readers' modifications etc. all we get is barbecues!

 

Tom.

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I fitted the Moss conversion kit to my 3A, easy to fit, purchased when they had a discount offer. The horn is now operated from a button on the dash part number 080808 and the indicators from a stalk clamped to the steering column part number 080904, both form Auto Electrical Supplies.

Martin

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I got the Revington R.P. on my 3A now for about 13 years. I think it's the best on the market. A friend of mine has a Protek rack, that at full deflection enters in contact with the body :unsure: , this does not influence the steering but IMHO it should not take place.

The car is equipped with a Moto Lita steering wheel and for the horn I fitted a slip ring on the lower column at the hight of the bracket.

For the direction indicator I use a 3 way switch on the dash with a buzzer, avoids to cut it off as it's hard to see the light at daytime

Edited by jean
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I have the Revington R&P conversion on my 3a.

The thought of the original steel pole about 4" behind the bumper finishing 4" away from my chest was a major selling point!

The handling is hugely improved and parking is a doddle.

I would advise letting Revingtons fit it.

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I don't mean to highjack the thread, but I'm curious what upper column is used if the car has a full length column like our TR3A?

On our SP250's the steering rack conversion is done in a very similar way to the TR2/3 (the suspension's the same really, so not surprising) and because SP's all had a full-length column, we often use Herald/early spitfire columns, connecting to the rack via a T2000 column link with 2 UJ's.

This gives a "period" column shroud with indicator and lamp stalks, and a centre push horn button which are easy to wire up and (IMO !) look "in keeping" on the car.

Is there some reason the Herald column can't be used on the TR3A? (Too long/too short/wrong splines, etc?)

I had been considering using one when I come to do the conversion on the TR3A, so if there's any info that would stop me going down a blind alley, I'd appreciate it.

As always, thanks for any help,

John

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