TR6 for sale - help wanted

[Trigbush]

I'm finally succombing to temptation and thinking about wading into a TR6 purchase. Something that has been on my mind for the last three years. With spring fast approaching, it's a thought that is even more present in the mind.

 

I have a 1973 TR6 in mind. It's a US import (I live on the continent). I attach some photographs and would appreciate any constructive comments.

 

Cheers

 

 

Edited March 4, 2013 by Trigbush

[simonjrwinter]

As always, body/chassis condition is everything. It does look from the pictures to be pretty good. If you were to buy it and it IS as good as it looks, it wouldn't be a bad idea to get some new/extra protection on the chassis/underside asap.

JMHO

 

Simon

[hogan1945]

Looks like a great starter TR6. You will never get bored again!!!

[Trigbush]

Many thanks both. Other comments welcome. Other photos I could not load due to file size. I was impressed by the body work but agree that additional protection should be applied on the underside.

[RogerH]

Hi TRig,

where abouts on the Continent are you. The French have a healthy TR fraternity.

Before leaping into the fray it may be a good idea to have a fellow enthusiast to have a look at the finer points.

The front suspension needs routine attention, evry 2/3/4 years dismantle clean, grease and replace nylon bishes etc. - tell tale of rust at the lower end of the damper. etc

 

But all relatively easy to sort out.

 

Roger

[Jersey Royal]

Hi Trig

 

Have a look through this shows main points to watch for

 

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/downloads/buyer_guides/TR6_Buyer_Beware.pdf

 

Cheers

Guy

[keving]

Other photos I could not load due to file size.

 

I suggest you put your photos up on photobucket here http://beta.photobucket.com/

 

You can then post a direct link here and we can view all the photos and give a better overview of the car, Just like my link in my signature below.

 

What ever you decide to do take Rogers advice and touch base locally, and make sure you DO by a 6 you'll never regret it !!

Edited March 4, 2013 by keving

[PJM]

I am wondering why the sills are covered in black "gunge" but the rear apron is in pristine white. Is the black hiding something? Also looks a strange shape although this could be the camera angle.

[RobinTR6]

Best of luck and yes find someone in the know. Suspension at front looks tired and somewhat unloved. Agree about sills, and include inner wheel arches especially at the front. From the pics looks as if the underseal has been applied very generously in front arches and there appears to be a gap where the inner arch meets the sill (underseal missing), I'd be having a really good poke there. Take a magnet and see if its all steel. Interior looks fine but hey, costs nought to sort out.

 

As the boys have said, do some homework reading up, find a friend in the know, and give her a really good check on the underside and common rust areas.

[Trigbush]

Thanks everyone - really helpful comments. I have the TR Register and VTR checklists already (which are very helpful). A friend restored a '62 MGB Tourer and has given some helpful views on the photos. He also spotted the "gunge" identified by PJM: "The panel below the doors is covered in a rough black bitumen paint, these are prone to rust as is the wheel arches and inside the spare wheel well - so check this carefully". He also said, "The hood seems to have a few repairs to it and the drivers door window seems to sit a little wide of the hood". I will try and upload all of the photos. I am possibly off to see it on Saturday.

I am in BE - so not far from the FR community. If anyone wants to come with me - let me know!

 

Cheers

[Trigbush]

p.s. nice cars everyone!

[robnob]

Take a good look if you can by removing the boot trim and looking at the state of the inner wings from there - you may get a better idea of the overall condition of the inner wings, something that the "black stuff" may be hiding.

 

Check the panel gaps at the doors too - if the gap at the top is disproportionately larger than that at the bottom you should consider some chassis issues and I'd be walking away rapidly.

 

The usual regarding the differential mountings as well - if you can get a good look underneath at the condition and certainly listen for any "clunking" noises on take up

[Trigbush]

This should be a link to the album: http://s1300.beta.photobucket.com/user/Trigbush/library/1973%20TR6

[PJM]

Remember you dont have to buy the first one you see

[Trigbush]

Thanks PJM.

Edited March 20, 2013 by Trigbush

[elclem1]

Hi Trig, I have to say it does look ok, not withstanding the previous comments. I suppose in the end it depends how much it is and how much extra work you would like to do.

 

Good luck. Andy

[Trigbush]

Thanks Andy.

[Trigbush]

Okay. So I went to see the '6 this morning. Here is a report of my non-expert findings (photos of inspection can be found here: http://s1300.beta.photobucket.com/user/Trigbush/library/TR6%20Inspection%20Photos):

 

1. Bodywork

 

I checked the rear deck, all wings (inside and out), bonnet skin, boot lid (inside and out) and boot floor and sides. I also checked the A and B posts, sills, floors and moutings. I did not find any sign of bubbling or rust. On the passenger side door there was a very small amount of reddish material on the inside top right hand corner near the window. I noted that the hood had a tendency not to be so closely fitted above the passenger side window which may explain that over time there was a minor leak on this side. Under the carpets, the floors showed no sign of rust and the seat rails were entirely rust free.

 

As noted above, the car has some black bitumen paint on the sills and on the inside wheel arches. On inspection these were solid with no signs of rust or crumbling.

 

More importantly, both the driver side and passenger side door panels did not appear to be well-aligned/appointed. The driver's side was not flush with the line of the wing either. At the top of the seam, the separation was about the width of my index finger - and clearly broader than at the bottom. As there was no discernible rusting issues on the posts or the sill (or indeed underside of the doors themselves), I think this could be a pointing issue.

 

Otherwise, the exterior was very good, with one or two chip marks on the bonnet lid, door edges and bonnet lid. The Leyland badge on the driver's side was missing. Ideally, it could do with respray but it could survive for a number of years with just a minor touch-up.

 

2. Trim

 

The hood needed cleaning but was in good shape, one previous repair being apparent. Inside, there was a good sign of wear. Particularly on the gear stick. There was a split in the driver's seat. Nevertheless, all of the interior was there, and the dash showing a little bit of age. There was some black tape around the steering column.

 

3. Commission Number

 

The driver's side door frame badge appears to be in order (October 1972 with colour correct code 19 and Commission Number CF748U. However, in the engine bay, there were two small badges (the top one very difficult to read, the other underneath with CF00797).

 

4. Engine

 

The engine turned over nicely, the oil pressure sat comfortably just above 50 pounds/sq. inch. Underneath, on checking, I noted some minor oil leak from the gasket and the sump. Whilst there was some minor corrosion the block, this all appeared to be superficial.

 

5. Electrics

 

LIghts, fan and wipers all worked without problem. I think the left indicators may have a small contact problem as they did not operate immediately but only after some 10 seconds. I did not notice any material wiring condition problems.

 

6. Suspension

 

I checked the trailing arms, mountings and shock absorbers as well as the front wishbone mounting points. There was no discernible rusting or bubbling or cracking. In fact, I believe the front arms had been replaced recently. However, the rear right wheel tilted inwards at the top, which I think may suggest that the bearings are worn. I did not notice any pulling when driving the car.

 

7. Transmission

 

The clutch operated normally, and there were no transmission issues. All changes very smooth as well as reverse. No clunking or noises were detected.

 

8. Chassis

 

The chassism and the mounting poitns appeared to be very solid, with no rust or accident damage/distortion.

 

9. Drive

 

It felt great!!! Whilst the brakes were soft - having sat around for six months and needing a check up - it was a real pleasure to drive. Top down, wind in the hair and the sound of the straight six in the ears. Great stuff. The steering was remarkably sharp and responsive - better than expected, and whilst the accelerator sits rather high, the clutch and brake pedals were very user-friendly.

 

Anyway, I would welcome any comments from the experts. I am thinking of having an independent expertise done in any event. I have it on option until Monday...

 

Cheers

Edited March 7, 2013 by Trigbush

[RogerH]

Hi TRig,

you have been busy.

The tilting of the rear off-side wheel is propbably not the bearing (worn bearings make a noise but don;t tilt the wheel)

The suspension spring may have collapsed or different from the near side. - what is the gap like between the top of the tyre and the wing cut-out (compare NS and OS).

Or the TRailing arm brackets need sorting.

 

Roger

[robnob]

The panel gaps although never great will give a fair idea of the overall state of the car with regards to chassis and body fit.

 

Like I said before a good car should have good even panel gaps at door shuts and if the line is less parallel, more akin to a v shape with a large gap to the top, it would suggest some chassis issues at worst or poor alignment of any removal / refit of doors, more likely the former.

 

Overall you have to weigh up the price versus condition and any sums you consider you,ll have to, or want to, pay to put those issues right.

Always worth a PPI in any event, another pair of eyes may spot a howler you missed or recommend a purchase with provisos to negotiate a little on price

Good luck

 

Rob

Edited March 7, 2013 by robnob

[Trigbush]

Thanks Roger and Rob. The was no discernible difference in the rear right arch over the tyre compared to the rear left arch. No tilting of the body so I did not think this was a suspension spring problem. I have posted a link above to the inspection photos which I hope are of interest.

 

Cheers

[Denis]

I am wondering why the sills are covered in black "gunge" but the rear apron is in pristine white. Is the black hiding something? Also looks a strange shape although this could be the camera angle.

 

Black 'gudge' as you call it, is the correct standard finish below the chrome sill trim line, many restorations leave this area in body paint colour, which is incorrect, and makes the profile of the car look too deep!

 

All in all I'd say this TR6 is a very good car, that can only improve with a bit of TLC...go buy it, and enjoy the summer in a proper English Classic Sports Car.

[Trigbush]

Thanks Denis-interesting what you say about the standard finish.

[PJM]

I called it gunge not gudge and it looks like gunge not paint. Could be hiding some horrors, maybe not but worth checking out properly to make sure it is not hiding anything nasty.

[AlanT]

The chassis on this car looks to be really good in the photos. Thats probably sufficient reason to buy it.

 

The door gaps are all wrong. The question is why?

I would guess this has had a body-off resto and the rear wings are replacements. And they just have not been put back right.

 

This is fixable and not crazy money to do it.

So thats another reason.

 

Al.