D Murton Posted December 19, 2004 Report Share Posted December 19, 2004 I've been enjoying my TR for a year now and need to start thinking about some work over the winter. One project is a good coating of waxoil on the underside and in the chassis box sections but there is way to get any in the sills as there are no drain holes Is this normal? Should I drill into the lowest part of the sill ore in from the wheel arches and fit sealing plugs. There are also no drain holes in the doors. Should there be any> I also intend fitting a manual switch fot the Kenlowe fan. Does this switch connect across the existing terminals on the themostat that are used for auto operation or somehow to the unused terminal on the stat. Thanks in advance DaveM Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest bob-men Posted December 20, 2004 Report Share Posted December 20, 2004 Dave I can answer part of your question. Yes, the doors should have drain holes along the horizontal edge that forms with the outer door skin.A peek inside the door would probably confirm a previous owner has been generous with glass fibre resin curing a rusty door bottom.It's a good opportunity to clear any existing rubbish from the interior of the door , so that rainwater flows away cleanly. Sills- without ripping off stuck down carpet from the inner quarter profile sill ( which has suitable access holes in it ) access can be made through two sources. One as you have indicated - through the sill end caps or by drilling through the vertical edge formed by the floor pan, where it meets the other two parts of the sill.( If you were under the car centre line, looking out to the sills you would see about three/four inches of metal.Drill about an inch up from the bottom edge to avoid the spot welding of the join with the outer part of the sill ). Option 2 is less obvious visually but is a bit more fiddly when pumping in the waxoyl.You'll need to raise the car anyway, so the decision is yours. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted December 20, 2004 Report Share Posted December 20, 2004 My TR6 has several vent holes along the lower sill edge, the side turned towards the chassis member as Bob explained. Further there are bigger holes half way up, at the front and rear of the inner sill pannel. I would not drill holes in the sill caps as mud and dirt will be thrown inside the sills by the wheels Jean p.s. Some time ago there was a schematic in TR Action how to fit an override switch to an electric fan, maybe someone remembers which issue it was. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dale Moore Posted December 20, 2004 Report Share Posted December 20, 2004 Hi Dave, Winter is the usual time for most of us to think of rust protection, however pumping semi solidified waxoil out of its container, even with a pressure attachment, in a cold garage, in the depths of winter, is not recomended! Better wait till one of our good old summers Regards Dale Quote Link to post Share on other sites
D Murton Posted December 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2004 Thanks for the infomation guys. There are definately no holes in either the sills or the door bottoms so I guess the trolley jack and stands Father Christmas is going to bring me will get used earlier than expected DaveM Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonlar Posted December 21, 2004 Report Share Posted December 21, 2004 I also intend fitting a manual switch fot the Kenlowe fan.Does this switch connect across the existing terminals on the themostat that are used for auto operation or somehow to the unused terminal on the stat. Dave, all you need is a single pole, single throw switch, but while you're at it, I'd be inclined to add a relay, using the thermostatic/manual override switch to control it, and a small warning light. The manual/override justs operates inparallel to the thermostatic sw., literally across the existing switch wire terminals. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
D Murton Posted December 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2004 Thanks for that jonlar. I'm making up a secondary harness as I'm changing to an alternator and taking a two new feeds to the front of the car with relays for the lights and spotlights at the same time so adding a few more wires shouldn't be too difficult DaveM Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robgeev Posted December 22, 2004 Report Share Posted December 22, 2004 Why bother with switches/lights? Far too sixties! The thermostat on the unit should switch in and out as required, you can tell when it's working by the sound of it, why complicate matters? Simple feed to the control + away! Rob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted December 22, 2004 Report Share Posted December 22, 2004 Rob, this is far too simplistic. In the 60th you were seldom stuck in traffic jam for hours. The day you find yourself locked up on the M25 or somewhere else between 60ton lorries and a temperature of 35deg C, you will be quite happy with your override switch. It will not only prevent the engine temp. going up and down like jojo, but also your body temp. due to stress. Jean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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