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Camilo, why not stick with the original style thermostat. I have one fitted to my 3a and it runs beautifully cool even in summer (if we ever get one in the UK). Saves all this nonsense with blocking up the bypass hose.

 

Fit a new one to the standard thermostat housing and you're all good.

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Camilo, why not stick with the original style thermostat. I have one fitted to my 3a and it runs beautifully cool even in summer (if we ever get one in the UK). Saves all this nonsense with blocking up the bypass hose.

 

Fit a new one to the standard thermostat housing and you're all good.

 

Well the original style from Moss is listed at £82 as opposed to £4 for a waxstat so perhaps that is one good reason ? Or do you know a cheaper source?

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I think mine was purchased about 3 years ago for about £50 so they do seem to have increased in price.

 

Maybe it's just me but I'd still buy the £82 one and know that the cooling system is operating as designed rather than a heath robinson plug with a 1/8" hole at risk of getting blocked by some crud. Camillo has just been through an expensive restoration process so £82 sounds like cheap beans to me.

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I think mine was purchased about 3 years ago for about £50 so they do seem to have increased in price.

 

Maybe it's just me but I'd still buy the £82 one and know that the cooling system is operating as designed rather than a heath robinson plug with a 1/8" hole at risk of getting blocked by some crud. Camillo has just been through an expensive restoration process so £82 sounds like cheap beans to me.

Heath Robinson affair! I'm beginning to wonder if there's any point in trying to help fellow members on this bitchy Forum?

I'm still considering not renewing my membership in the New Year.

 

Tom.

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Any modern-type thermostat Camilo. The only one you would not have to do this for is the original type with the sleeve. The two types are shown here. the sleeved one is part 21 and the modern one is part 22. :

 

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/cooling-system/water-pumps-fittings/water-pump-thermostat-fittings-tr2-4a.html

 

 

My current one is the bellows type #2, and before I had the #22, but I cannot remember having to do anything to the housing, whatever the thermostat. It has always been a straight swap. Is that OK?

Edited by qim
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Yes it is a straight swap. Both designs fit the housing with no problem but only the sleeved one will properly close off the bypass pipe. Thats why you need the restrictor with all the modern waxstat types including the Tridon.

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Tom, your post was so early in this thread I didn't remember back to it so my post certainly wasn't aimed at you, or indeed anyone in particular. I think Ian acknowledged your solution was "the non bodge approach".

 

I had to check back but the original post was about whether you "had" to use a sleeved thermostat or if you could use a modern one. Which everyone answered using their own solutions. All good.

 

The Tridon TT2000-170 looks like a new style wax stat to me so I would think it needed the restrictor sleeve in the by-pass hose, and as a nod to Tom, his solution did indeed look best if you want this. On the other hand, if your car isn't overheating I'd leave it well alone.

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In the US, where copper plumbing fittings are still inch-based, some people have fitted a bypass restrictor based on a copper pipe cap of the appropriate size with a hole -- something like 1/4 or 3/8 inch -- drilled in the center, then pushed into the hose.

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I'm starting to get it (well, part of it...). The whole thread since I arrived is not about whether the stats fir into the housing without any problem; BUt about a by-pass pipe.

 

Now I did not know that the car had a by-pass pipe. Where is it?

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If you look at the thermostat housing there is a large pipe going forwards to the radiator. At right angles to that (on the left as you face the front of the car) there is a smaller diameter pipe above the temperature sender. That has a hose on it which twists downwards to meet the larger one from the water pump. The right angle pipe and smaller hose is the bypass. If you look at the moss drawing I posted earlier, the bypass hose is item 25.

Edited by RobH
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What you will have done is temporary and can be returned to original with ease. Restricting the bypass from the pump to the thermostat housing will allow the pump to bleed any trapped air but will not allow large amounts of cooling water from the pump to avoid going through the engine water ways.

 

As a point of interest the water pump housing of a TR4A has reduced outlet bore (where the bypass hose connects) compared to TR2/4. drops from 5/8" to 1/4"

Same part number cast on it though - 57014 Now was this done by Triumph on the TR4A to deliberately get round the issues of using the waxstat thermostat that had no bypass blocking ring. As we know waxstat was specified for TR4A.

 

Peter W

The big hole is TR2+4 The small is TR4A

 

Peter W

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  • 1 month later...

I bought a Tridon TT2000-170 which is with my daughter in the UK and will travel to me here in Portugal next week. Reading this thread I can't quite understand if this is a straight swap or if I need to create bypasses...

 

Well, I've had the Tridon fitted and took the car for a drive. Outside temp is 12ºC and the needle went closer to the middle than ever before. So far, so good. But now I wonder what will happen when the temperature rises. Anyone has experience of this thermostat?

Edited by qim
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In looking up part numbers in a search for a bellows type 'stat, I came across the following very detailed discussion of bellows type 'stats.

 

Although written for Jaguar XKs, it quotes part numbers C3731 and Smiths X85025 which are listed for TRs

 

It looks quite comprehensive, can the more technically minded give their view of the piece as it seems to expand the options available for original style, bellows type thermostats

 

http://www.bobine.nl/jaguar/02-engine/thermostats-for-jaguar-xk-120-140-and-150/

 

Phil

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Very interesting post.....
I found the bypass bore d = 8,5 mm on the pump housing of my TR4A and d=8,0 mm on a friends TR6.

For a closer look next year I fitted 3 thermometers in the engine with displays in the car to look for the temperatures inside

1. water in the thermostat housing = temperatur of the byypass
2. water retrum "cold" from the radiator to the pump
3. mixture of warer return from the radiator and from the bypass, from the pump in the engine

With that information an the "mixing cross rule" it´s very easy to realise where the water flows:
throught the radiator or throught the bypass.

First what I realised last Oktober and November: below 20°C outside temperature the bypass is more needed than the radiator.
After only 500 m downhill the thermostat closes and the bypass is needed to hold the temperatur and the water running in the engine.
I would not make the bypass smaller than the original 8,5 mm.

What I also realised: the temperatur when the TR temperatur gauge shows "HOT!" is absolute OK (lower 90 degrees C) and no reason for any worry.
My TR runs with a 71°C "modern" thermostat and have a 71°C bellows with "shirt" for some experiments.

But - as often at this forum I think I stand alone with my opinion that is always based on a very close look on thinks that happen.
Sometimes this is different from that what is normaly told.

Ciao Marco

Edited by Z320
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