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Hi,

I'm confused with the thermostats for my 3A,It seems that I have to use the old-style thermostat or use a new style one and make a sleeve for the by-pass hole. Is this so? And if yes,anyone with the dimensions of this sleeve?

Or are there other tricks to use a newer style thermostat.

Thanks.

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I found a copper end cap pipe fitting in the same inside diameter as the rubber hose. Drill a small hole in it and fit in the bypass hose.

Works ok, although I've an original sleaved version fitted now and it seems a little better.

 

Paul

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Hi paul,

Thanks for the info,would the engine run hot if there was no sleeve?Or what would (not) happen? The reason I would go for the new one is that is gives you different temp. settings.

Yves

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Go to Terianns website http://www.tr3a.info/o/ look in Articles and find How skirted thermostats work and you will find all the info. The thermostat i found works a treat is a Tridon TT2000-170 High capacity with the bypass restricted to 1/4 inch it will run all day with the needle on the 8 of 185 deg.

Regards Graham

Edited by Graham Harris

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Yves

This has been a popular subject on this forum and has been discussed many times. If you do a search for thermostat under the TR2/3/3a forum you'll find lots of threads, and lots of good information on why the bypass is there in the first place, etc.

 

You'll also find plenty of opinions rather than facts, but that's par for the course. There are examples of people who have succesfully used every possible combination of bellows / non bellows / blocked bypass / open bypass / restricted bypass... so there's no 'right answer' it would seem.

 

My own conclusion was to try the non-bellows thermostat with a restricted bypass approach.

 

I suppose the critical thing no matter which option you opt for is to keep one eye on the temp guage at all times :)

 

Malcolm

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FWIW we have the same issue with Rolls-Royce and Bentley except that the Thermostat costs nearly £200. Because cars were overheating and the the genuine R-R product was opening at too higher temperature, we had no option but to use a cheap modern alternative, it was a Peugeot one and it works perfectly, reliably and at exactly the temperature that it says it does. We've done nothing to the bypass hose at all. Some customers have been using them for years now.

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Hi Yves ~

 

Here's the modification I carried out to my thermostat housing. Initially I used a rubber tube fitted with a small bore copper pipe inside the rubber but the rubber soon deteriorated! I then used a short length of steel pipe with a plain washer with a small hole soldered to it. This acts as a restrictor. See photo's.

 

Regards ~

 

Tom.

 

DSCF2233.jpg

DSCF2234.jpg

Tom,

 

This is the non bodge approach. I used an old 10p piece with a hole drilled in and held in position with a second jubilee clip. I think this qualifies as a bodge.

 

Rgds Ian

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I found a large brass end of a flexible hose, cut off the old rubber, it already has the required 1/4" hole thru, clamped it on a long 1/4" bolt which I mounted in the chuck of my rechargeable drill, clamped the drill in the vice and with a fine sanding disc in grinderette took the diameter down to fit tight in the bypass hole oulet, secured the now very smart looking bush with a tiny roll pin drilled thru the ally housing and the brass bush, not right thru the housing but just on the top. The roll pin is close to the edge so that the hose seals the roll pin. Job done!!

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Go to Terianns website http://www.tr3a.info/o/ look in Articles and find How skirted thermostats work and you will find all the info. The thermostat i found works a treat is a Tridon TT2000-170 High capacity with the bypass restricted to 1/4 inch it will run all day with the needle on the 8 of 185 deg.

Regards Graham

 

 

Hi

 

I bought a Tridon TT2000-170 which is with my daughter in the UK and will travel to me here in Portugal next week. Reading this thread I can't quite understand if this is a straight swap or if I need to create bypasses...

 

Help...

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That is a conventional modern-type wax thermostat which does not have the sleeve to shut off the bypass tube as per the TR original. It will fit straight in the housing with no problems but unless you restrict the bypass tube more water will bypass the radiator than it should, thus reducing the cooling potential a bit.

The idea was that when cold with the thermostat shut, the water was circulated via the bypass tube only around the engine block. That made for a faster warm-up. Once the thermostat opened the flow went through the radiator and the sleeve on the thermostat closed off the bypass tube. Modern thermostats like the one you have ordered do not have the sleeve and so do not close off the bypass, so the trick is to put a restrictor in the pipe as described above to force more water to go through the radiator. You are not creating the bypass - that is already there - its the smaller pipe that comes out at right angles from the thermostat housing.

Edited by RobH

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Thank you Rob and Tom

 

I thought this marvel thermostat that came all the way fro Auastralia solved the the problem totally. From what you wrote it still needs the restrictor. This is a job for the professionals and I will only be the translator!

 

Where do I get a restrictor like Tom's from ?

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Unfortunately I don't think you can buy anything like that purpose-made. You might be lucky and find something which would fit but I I expect your garage chap could make one if you show him Tom's picture. The hole should be around 1/4 inch (6.35mm) but the exact size is not critical. The restrictor needs to be a tight fit in the pipe so it does not move in use.

 

Alternatively, if you can't get one made locally, just measure the inside diameter of your bypass pipe to confirm the size and PM me. I will turn-up a suitable restrictor for you.

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Alternatively, if you can't get one made locally, just measure the inside diameter of your bypass pipe to confirm the size and PM me. I will turn-up a suitable restrictor for you.

 

 

Thank you Rob

 

If I get stuck, I'll be in touch. How many pints...?

Edited by qim

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Another simple solution, I rolled a thin Aluminium strip and banged it in place with a hammer and drilled the 1/8" (well actually 4 mm, a bit larger) hole.

IMG_3178.jpg

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Thank you Rob and Tom

 

I thought this marvel thermostat that came all the way fro Auastralia solved the the problem totally. From what you wrote it still needs the restrictor. This is a job for the professionals and I will only be the translator!

 

Where do I get a restrictor like Tom's from ?

 

Make one as I did

1/2 a Wine bottle cork. (15 - 20mm long)

Drill a 3 - 4mm diameter hole through its length.

Push the drilled cork inside the bypass hose of your TR.

Water will make the cork expand to fit the hose.

Job's done and you enjoyed a bottle of wine.

Peter W

 

 

 

 

What you will have done is temporary and can be returned to original with ease. Restricting the bypass from the pump to the thermostat housing will allow the pump to bleed any trapped air but will not allow large amounts of cooling water from the pump to avoid going through the radiator water ways.

 

As a point of interest the water pump housing of a TR4A has reduced outlet bore (where the bypass hose connects) compared to TR2/4. drops from 5/8" to 1/4"

Same part number cast on it though - 57014 Now was this done by Triumph on the TR4A to deliberately get round the issues of using the waxstat thermostat that had no bypass blocking ring. As we know waxstat was specified for TR4A.

 

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT

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Here's my home made restrictor.
Tom.

 

I just got my old thermostat housing from the garage (it was replaced last year) and it seems different from yours: small diameters

post-14128-0-40002100-1513172803_thumb.jpg

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Just so that it sinks in... You are talking about what I have to do to fit the Tridon TT2000-170. Right?


or does it apply to any thermostat?

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Any modern-type thermostat Camilo. The only one you would not have to do this for is the original type with the sleeve. The two types are shown here. the sleeved one is part 21 and the modern one is part 22. :

 

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/cooling-system/water-pumps-fittings/water-pump-thermostat-fittings-tr2-4a.html

Edited by RobH

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