Richard71 Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Thanks Stuart, I've just re-checked and I have 54" (give or take) so I may well just make it, will soon find out once the new concrete is dry and the car comes back on Monday. Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 You`ll be needing the short wheelbase version then Tighten up your door gaps Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 It is 54 inch at the swage line,however you need more if bumpers fitted Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Nice one! . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 The concrete floor cutting alone is now leading into a 2 1/2 day shift, drrrrrrrr, grrrrrr! And it looks like a Sahara sand storm has passed through my garage. Neil, I measured it again taking into account the shuttering the builder will put it and it looks like I may make it by 2", that's all I need. My own fault....what's the rule of thumb "measure twice and cut once!". See what comes of Monday. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 As long as it grey dust no worries good slab Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Looks like a Sahara sand storm swept through....no! Understatement, I've been in a few of those and it looks similar. Anyone selling cheap hoover bags at Malvern this weekend, industrial cleaner, anything to eleviate the pain woud be nice. I wish I had a hangover, coz the bloody drill is doing my head in! ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill944T Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 (edited) Hello all. Having owned my 1971 TR6 since 1976 and laid it up in 1996, I'm just about getting round to the idea of restoring it! I've been looking at getting one of the cheaper £1400 two post lifts and as a prolific reader, acquired BS 7980:2003+A1:2012 for some bedtime reading. I rent a unit and have a few options of where exactly to put it as it will be in the way sometimes no matter how much thought goes into it. From a LOLER point of view, the BS has this that I thought would be of interest to anyone without too much space. Fixed vehicle lifts should be positioned so that throughout their range of movement any moving part is either at least 600 mm away from, or not more than 12 mm away from the nearest fixed structure. Fixed vehicle lifts should be not less than 600 mm away from any other adjacent fixed structure throughout the movement of the lift. Well, so much for creating an impression with my first post.... To redeem myself I'd like to post about the Heritage shell (second batch) that I bought and still lurks in my workshop and a SAH wide ratio gearbox sometime soon! Regards Bill edit for spilling! And again for content..... Edited August 8, 2013 by Bill944T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eddie Cairns Posted August 9, 2013 Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 Bill Be very carefull re concret depth and reinforecement on a 2 post. They are the most problematic re concrete. You may have to dig out two pads and re lay with reinforecent to safely install it. eddie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill944T Posted August 9, 2013 Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 Yes Eddie, The floor is ropey as parts of it are the lower parts of the hop kilns where the heated air rose through to dry the hops and as such, only 4" thick and laid for pedestrian usage. I've done some research and as you say, two blocks 1000 mm cube or preferably, a strip the width of the lift that is 1000 mm front to back, 500 mm deep and 4000 mm wide. This gives the same cubic content (around 4 tonnes) but has the advantage of tying the two columns together rather than relying on the ropey floor keeping the cubes apart and in line. It'll be a next year project.......There are some "interesting" pictures on the HSE www regarding two post lift failures and some very sad consequences of lifting accidents in general including ones where the fitter has relied on air bag suspension to gain access to the underside of a lorry. At IWE tomorrow for the first time in 12? years and no excuse really as I'm in Hereford. Regards Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted August 11, 2013 Report Share Posted August 11, 2013 Tim, You have a PM. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Top Car Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 Hi Everyone I have just bought a Mid=Rise Scissor Lift AS - 7530 for my studio and would like to find out if anyone has something similar and also if you know were I could buy some extending ramps ie ruber etc as the lift is around 6" in hight of the floor. The reason that I need to have 4 extension ramps is that some of the cars I work on are lower to the floor than others, here is an example of another lift with something similar Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 11, 2017 Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 (edited) Welcome Top Car, Yes, you have the Automotech AS 7530 with the limited 1 metre lift ? I think if you check post number 3 you'll see Tim has posted there where he has let his same lift into the floor. He inspired me to go that way, and after researching the market I concluded that the Automotech was an excellent choice and that was what my purchase was going to be...and then I found this This was a used ex hire company "snatch back" Strongman Clifton lift which I bought through e bay for under £850 complete with a Hydraulic control pack. It had only been used a matter of a few days usage and was in excellent condition. They retail at about £3200 and had been a lift I'd hung my nose over but the Automotech with an almost identical spec at about half the price was going to be my choice. As you can see like Tim's it's set into the floor, especially in my case important because being used in a single width garage the amount of ramp sticking out on either side of the car (about 8") is enough to trip you when it sticks up about 4" from the floor (ointment required !). With it's 820mm working space between the ramps it allows enough working space for engine, gearbox and drive train yet allows all 4 wheels to be suspended and the corners of the car access for suspension work. The width of each ramp (500mm) will allow moderns to be lifted on there also, a TR is narrower but the chassis trailing arm mounts will fit onto the ramp lift and a movable lifting crossbeam placed across the ramps at the front will allow full down car access and also use as jacking beam if gearbox or rear of engine is need to be jacked etc . As regards approach and depart ramps for the lift, doesn't the Automotech come with those as standard ? admittedly they are shorter than the ramps you show but if you have them I'd try a short piece of scaffolding board in front of them to get an initial lift. PS, Try and give a little more information on your signature , many of us attach our name at the bottom, and a location attachment on the information section helps with suggestions for services and offers of help in your neck of the woods. Mick Richards Edited January 11, 2017 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Salmon Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Hi Bill Just installed the 2post lift from automotec collected it myself from there depot in Rugeley great service and struck a deal. They also put me in touch with a registered fitter . If you have the hight it's the only way to go , free access All areas of the car . You will need 3.2 m to the underside of your rafters . Photo attached . Happy garage Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 ....Nice Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve T Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 WOW! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kcsun Posted January 17, 2017 Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 Hi Darren your photo seems to show your lift at an angle to the door??? Why have you done that? I am just getting my building regs plans drawn for my new house and garage and wonder if I should put the lift at an angle???? KC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 17, 2017 Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 Hi TC, Sorry KC, I thought the same thing, answering for Darren here at a bit of a guess but I reckon it's a double garage with a large door in the centre (maybe not a double) so angling the lift to one side still allows the access into the other side. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ragtag Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 I like the Gulf colour scheme. Where is the Porsche/GT40? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Salmon Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Hi Kc Sorry late reply 8.5m x7.5m with 4.5 m door which opens up to the 3.3 m under side of rafter So Theres a 1.3 m side wall from garage door it's the only way to keep lift to one side so plenty of room For the wife's car she likes 2 m each side know what a mean . Gulf colours just a classic Le Mans fad Cheers Darren Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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