peejay4A Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 This is my first time with knock on wheels. How much whacking of the spinners is the right amount? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frank_s Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Hi Peejay I was new to this myself a little while back... and was told that you don't need too much (especially with good splines and wheels) as they should essentially tighten themselves. If your wheels and splines are a little worn, then you'll get a little knock under acceleration and braking unless you wack them on hard. Of course, if you put the adapters and wheels on the wrong side of the car it doesn't matter how hard you knock them on. You will find that, as you happily drive along, you will hear a little tinkling noise (your spinner hitting the tarmac) and then as you brake wondering what the **** is going on, you'll be rapidly overtaken by your wheel. Frank Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Thanks Frank. It's all new so no wear - and they're on the correct sides, I checked that bit over and over. It seems to me that to avoid spline wear in the first place that they need to be on good and firm, which they are. I just wondered if it's possible to overdo it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Hi Pete, not really possible to over do it but you will cause more damage to the spinner ears. A few good whacks to ensure that there is no movement. It doesn;t matter how tight they are the splines will wear - given time. It is only the rear splines that go as the front are not driven. In a million years time when the rear area bit knocky then put the front wheels on the rear hubs. This will even out whatever wear is going on. Â Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dykins Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 I hand tighten them, then using a wooden propeller thingy to protect my spinners, a couple of stout, but not fierce hits with the hide hammer.  Not had a wheel come off (yet)  Regards  Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Thanks folks. I beat the heck out of them until they don't move any more. Overkill probably. I do use the hide part of the hammer though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Use the wooden spanner from Moss. Tighten like any ordinary wheel nut. Â The whole point of LH and RH threads on opposite sides, is that they tighten up rather than loosen. Â Al. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 I understand the left and right hand thread thing and it sounds great in theory but I don't think I'd trust it very far. I also have one of those wooden things somewhere but I read some uncomplimentary reviews on it so It got put away. I'll bang away. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Traditionally you bang them with copper. Trouble is this work hardens and then you take the corners off the spinners. Â Al. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 I had a steel version of the wooden spinner saver bought from the MGOC it was very good   Cheers  Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
riverstar Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 Years ago I had a MG and the handbook said to tighten the spinner hand tight then knock it a further 1/4 turn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ragtag Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 Another tip is that you shouldn't put the full weight of the car on them before they are tight. In other words, lower the car so that the wheel is just touching the ground enough to prevent it turning unger the tightening force. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 (edited) Pete, I would say that it depends : if you have your fingers or somebody else head between the hammer and the spinner, keep cool   More seriously, when I tight a wire wheel spinner, I always have in mind a video, seen years ago, of a Jaguar mechanic at Le Mans (think it was on a D Type) in the pit lane : he was really playing hard with his hammer ! Edited February 16, 2013 by Chris59 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david ferry Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 (edited) Pete,  These are very expensive but could be your answer. Only of use when you're at home, or a circuit with a race support van!  http://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/accessories/Tools/RACING-LARGE-SPANNER-2-eared-spinners.aspx  The answer is to get it reasonably tight before the tyre is on the ground and to then get it tight, very tight once the car is on the ground.  Replacement spinners are cheaper than the damage repairs should you see your wheel go past you!  David Edited February 16, 2013 by david ferry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 (edited) Like that gadget David put a link to. Â I discovered that the PO, or someone before him, had swapped the bolt on splines around; ie the ones marked "L" were on the right and vice versa. Thankfully I was in traffic and only doing 60K on the 80k road when I heard a "ting" and saw the spinner run ahead of the car then break left. The wheel stayed on for the pull to the side of the road. I now belt sh8t out of them when I put the wheels on, and pull over to the side every now and then to make sure they are tight. was thinking of drilling a small hole in the "second best" set of spinners and putting lock wires on. But have done some long trips since without hearing the "ting" again. With the high frequency hearing loss I might yet rue the day. Edited February 16, 2013 by littlejim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 How much! Seriously though, thanks for all the comments on what might appear to be a flippant question but is in reality quite important. My technique, which I'll stick with, is to bang the hell out of them while the wheel is in the air then let it down and do it again. Given the inertia of the wheel/tyre I've found that most if not all of the tightening can be done with the wheel in the air. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 Hi LJ, I've also considered the wire locking approach but not got there yet. Â Hi Pete, No need to be humungously tight as the action of the wheel really does keep it tight. Fully tighten in the air and a couple of good whacks when on the ground should be enough. Â It wasn;t a flippant question - it gets people thinking. Â Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badfrog Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 Whatever you do for tightening, do it on a raised wheel, not touching the ground. When the wheel touches the ground, it sits on the splines with an angle. No good. I'd go along with a good greasing of the splines, shoeing the wheel perfectly against the hub then go for the hand tightening plus 2-3 good whacks with the lead hammer. Â Badfrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 Hi Pete, I have had wires for over 16 years and have always found when removing a wheel it is tighter than expected. Whatever you do, remember to put a hammer at least as big as the one used to do them up in the boot because there will come a time on a dark stormy night and you will be struggling to get one of the buggers off! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cliveinfrance Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 I first discovered these knock-on spinners when we were out with a group of enthusiasts.. we had all stopped to admire the view, but my contemplation of the countryside was interrupted by a frantic appeal for help from a comparative stranger ... actually. he was rather good looking so I followed him back to where the cars were parked (it's OK Clive came with me)... and there we found some folk hovering around a lovely old car... turned out to be a Daimlet Dart. Pierre (as we now know him) was trying to change a wheel.. he was hammering away at the spinner and getting nowhere !!! Consensus was that being an English car an English person was obviously needed to sort it....  Clive took a look and told me what was what... I translated his words (more or less) and a red-faced Pierre hit it in the other direction... success.. wheel changed and drinks all round ... another friend added to our list...  We have since discovered he also has an MGTD and an Amil car both of which he uses regularly... a lovely man in every sense, Pierre is in his 80's and his motor still turns (as he delights in telling me).  regards  Stella Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 I used to have one of the tool number 10 on this page. Much better than the wooden ones and cheaper than the racing one  http://www.mgocspares.co.uk/acatalog/MGOC_SPARES_WHEELNUTS_SPINNERS_TOOLS__MGA__244.html#topanch  and yes I like MG's as well  Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 That looks good but no price. Â (null) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 Hi Pete, Moss do the same thing but they do put a nasty gouge in the ears. Also they can twist and bend. Not as strong as they look. Â Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 I note all the various comments about the handed nature of the hubs and spinners. No amount of lamping the hell out of the spinner will make up for the hub nuts coming loose. As most who will ask the question because of a new build please please please check the hub taper for paint where the nut taper fits. If this is not tight metal to metal the nuts will loosen and you will lose a wheel with resultant damage and castastrophic accident you will undoubtedly have. Â Don't ask how I know this!!!!!!!! Â Rgds Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 I didn't like the whacking side of things and I have the really stupid three eared spinners (but then again I did buy them!) and haven't seen a wooden spanner for them...so I made one out of 30mm birch ply. works a treat. so good I made another that shaped to fit in the boot floor...although you can look a little Fred Flintstone when using it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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