Rorr1971 Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Hi Looking for advice again. I cannot thank this forum enough. You guys have been a wealth of knowledge over the 3 years I have had my car. I am slowly building up my own knowledge now too. I recently pulled off the timing case to fix a leaking front seal. Good news is I fixed that leak, however I now have another couple of different leaks. Leak 1 : the lower part of the timing case is now leaking oil when the engine is hot. Suspect this was always leaking just did not notice it. I now intend to drop the sump and replace the front seal bridge with a steel one. Suspect the one in there is not allowing the seal to torque up. Do you think I will need to take the timing cover off again or get away with installing the new seal bridge and torque up. i did fit a new gasket when I had it off last. Leak 2: looks like the bolt holding the timing case that penetrates the water channel is weaping coolant. Does this bolt need some silicone or similar applied to the thread. Thanks rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Rob If you dry fit the gasket and do not seal the bolts it will leak did you also check the crank sleeve for wear? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Hi Rob, It certainly wont do any harm to coat the thread of the bolt with PTFE tape and/or thread paste. I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my engine and while fitting a steel bridge (sealing block) I noticed where the two bolts the sump fastens and the two where the timing cover fastens are through holes, ie; directliy into the crankcase and will potentially be the source of a front end engine oil leak. Those four bolts could well do with a coat of thread sealant also. Keep that in mind when you refit the sump. Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rorr1971 Posted February 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Hi Neil, Thanks for the reply Yep new sleeve. The old one was very grooved from the dodgy seal. When you say dry seal do you mean just the gasket with no silicone? Do you know if any of the other bolts penetrate the water channel ? thanks Richard for the tip Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Damson6 Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 I have leaks from the front bridge and was thinking of helicoils as a thread solution as I wasn't aware of the steel bridge. Can you tell me where I can get a steel bridge from? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Not aware of anyone who does them over here but this is a good one from the States. http://www.classic-technologies.com/sealing-block.php Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Hi Neil, Thanks for the reply Yep new sleeve. The old one was very grooved from the dodgy seal. When you say dry seal do you mean just the gasket with no silicone? Do you know if any of the other bolts penetrate the water channel ? thanks Richard for the tip There is only one bolt that goes into the water jacket. It is on the right hand side just under the dowel. Its a great bolt to know about if your block drain tap is not working and you need to remove the head. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Damson6 Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 Thanks Stuart It works out at about £57 delivered which doesn't seem bad? Decision time, Is it plan A or plan B? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 Cheaper to make a bridging plate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanJ Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 I can tell you that the Triumph Six Sports Club can supply a steel Front Engine Sealing Block for £35.94 inc VAT. See the 10th. item on this page from the Club Shop: http://www.tssc.org.uk/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=283&Itemid=59 AlanJ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Damson6 Posted February 10, 2013 Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 Hello Alan and thanks for info, Can you recommend, or have you fitted one or know of others that have used them? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanJ Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 A friend of mine with a 1500 Spitfire has fitted one and says he felt able to do up the bolts without fear of stripping a thread. The leak has stopped. He used the wooden wedges down the ends. I have fitted one on myTR 6 but cannot report on it yet as there is other work to be done before I start it up. Anyway, where would I want to go in it in 4 inches of snow ? I did not use the wooden wedges but have placed my faith in modern sealant technology instead and the end slots have been liberally filled after carefully cleaning the adjacent surfaces. Alan J Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 I also fitted a steel bridge piece during the rebuild and have not had any problems with it at all. I also used modern sealants Alan, but with the wooden wedges. If you just seal the gaps with sealant there is a chance it will blow through if you have any crankcase pressure...just a thought. cheers Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Damson6 Posted March 27, 2013 Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 Sorry for the delay in letting you all know the outcome but its been cold in the garage and other work was warmer! I obtained a steel block from the sports six club (came very swiftly) and it fitted very well (I think Triumph must have anticipated problems when they devoted a page in the workshop manual to just replacing this part) I managed to replace it as per the workshop manual and didn't need to disturb the timing cover. I used the wooden blocks and Hylomar the only awkward bit was undoing the screw headed bolts but I have replaced these with socket headed bolts, much easier to do up. All now seems oil tight but time will tell I suppose and no doubt leak from somewhere else! We appear to be spoilt with a spellchecker now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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