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When i did that job on the last TR the nut did not want to undo.

 

I found a Clarke mains powered impact driver to be a good solution, 450 NM !, undid the nut relatively easily, and Machine Mart have VAT Free offers presently :-)

 

oh, 1 and 1/8th sounds right.

 

steve

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If this has been tightened as required then, to undo it without an impact driver, you have to find a way to stop the crank revolving.

The compession won't hold it. And there is too much "spring" in the transmission.

 

I used a bar, bolted on where the pulley goes. This has its risks. The bolts aren't really big enough.

 

Al.

Edited by AlanT
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I am too cowardly to mess with the starter-ring teeth. Were you to break one off you would really wish you had used another method.

 

The best method would be to remove the sump and clamp a bar across so as to jam the crank-web.

I keep bits if 1.5 x 0.5 in flat around for doing this class of thing.

 

Al.

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Talking of the crank pulley - does anyone know it it is still possible to get a boss and bolt to get rid of the pulley extension - I have had an electric fan for years and don't need the pulley extension any more... I have seen these items on state side supplier sites but was wondering if anyone had done similar here.

 

Cheers

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Talking of the crank pulley - does anyone know it it is still possible to get a boss and bolt to get rid of the pulley extension - I have had an electric fan for years and don't need the pulley extension any more... I have seen these items on state side supplier sites but was wondering if anyone had done similar here.

 

Cheers

Revington. T R sell rtr1028k crank washer & bolt set £19.91 .I have same one fitted 15 + years .

 

Regards Chris

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Hi Chris I had one made ages ago would you like it if I can find it?

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Find out for sure if this "extension" piece has any other purpose. I think it may damp crankshaft resonance. Don't know for sure but somebody on here will.

 

Al.

 

Al

It is only an extension and does not effect the crankshaft

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" rope trick" works as well. Take out plugs, put one ins of a piece of rope through the plug hole into a cylinder on compression part of cycle. Locks the engine nicely.

Tim

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If doing the rope trick make sure that you do it on the compression stroke of the relevant cylinder. This can also be used to change valve springs with the head on.

Stuart..

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Talking of the crank pulley - does anyone know it it is still possible to get a boss and bolt to get rid of the pulley extension - I have had an electric fan for years and don't need the pulley extension any more... I have seen these items on state side supplier sites but was wondering if anyone had done similar here.

 

Cheers

ive made a few of these and sold them on fleabay in the past.lm sure ive some ally bar left.

ill make some this weekend and put on ebay,.or pm me £12.50

richard

post-2190-0-33831500-1356218847_thumb.jpg

post-2190-0-33831500-1356218847_thumb.jpg

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I do wonder about removing the extension . . . .

 

Back when electric fans were pretty high tech and expensive, we put one on the Mk1 2000 rally car, replaced the old fan and extension with a boss and bolt, broke the crank on the next event. There was a GT6 2000PI hillclimb car as well, and that suffered the same experience. Couple of years later I broke a TR5 crank after removing the extension.

 

OK, it might have been coincidental, but the 2 litre cars are significantly shorter stroke than the 2.5. To be fair, we were revving the balls off all three cars, enthusiastic teenagers and they were competing cars, but none had experienced crank problems prior to the change from mechanical to electrical fan.

 

Possibly the error was to remove the extension from a balanced competition engine - it would have been part of the balancing equation. Therefore the influence of extension removal on a road engine may be less significant ?

 

Any thoughts from those more experienced with competition 6-potters ?

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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When the guy who makes the power-steering came to look at my car we discussed the "extension". This is in the way of a power-rack.

 

I told him that the WSM says that the fan and extension are "balanced" and need to be put back in their original positions.

This lead us to consider if the assembly worked as a vibration damper.

 

I don't doubt that you can take this off and drive about normally and be quite OK. Then you will get some stories, like above, where someone took it off, drove it hard and broke something.

 

Like many things, you have to assess the risk for yourself. There is actually no way I can guarantee to put the fan/extension back as it was when built!

 

Al

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