Hicks51 Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 I have a 1957 TR3 with a petrol tank that was probably last removed/looked at in 1989. It seems that petrol (unleaded plus lead-replacement additive) might be going off within about 4 or 5 months and is looking a bit cloudy and dark when I syphon it out. (It also doesn't take my eyebrows off when I light some of it in a container.) I'm planning to remove and try to clean the tank, but I don't know the best way of doing this - can anyone please advise? Alternatively, I might bite the bullet and buy a new tank from Moss or Rimmer. If I did this, is there any advantage in going for aluminium rather than mild steel? Thanks, Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 With the tank out the TR, you can tip it this way and that - to get any dry chunks or dirt out via the fill hole and the level sensor hole. Then you can flush it out with water and drain it several times. Then let it dry. Then you can slush it with a 2-pack epoxy sealer that is sold for fuel tanks. POR has a package to do this and I have used it once on a TR3A I was restoring. Make sure that the sealer you buy is resistant to ethanol blends of petrol. http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-fuel-tank-sealers.html The kit with 1 quart will be sufficient. When it is all cured and before you put the fuel tank back into the TR, Make sure that the drain hole in the bottom of the tank feeding the fuel line to the pump is free of any remnants of the sealer. I have heard that the fuel might flow but it's possible if you leave a flap of the sealer that acts like a flap-valve and closes off the bottom exit for the fuel from the tank and you have to stop along the side of a busy road - seemingly out of fuel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hicks51 Posted December 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 Hi Don, Thanks very much for a most comprehensive reply - I think I feel a Christmas task coming on! Regards and have a good Christmas. Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin49 Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 Brian, I've just had my tank replaced with a standard Moss steel one. I did consider an alloy tank, which look great, but Moss were doing a promotion early December and I went down the steel route due to having lots more to do on the car! Also I think there's a guide on You Tube for the Frost product. Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 Brian - I forgot to mention that for my own 1958 TR3A, I had a small leak in the rear wall of the fuel tank where the tool box had been bumping against the rear black hardura panel and this wore a tiny hole in the fuel tank. This happened during my rally days from 1959 to 1965. In 2000 as the restoration was nearly finished, I had my fuel tank "slushed" by a fuel tank shop as they wouldn't weld or solder it. That was 22 years and 110,000 miles ago. I have never had anything in the fuel filter bowl but very tiny black bits and no issues. Any loose bits that you can't clean out of your tank now will become embedded in the sealer and they will never become loose again. Cheers and have a warm Happy Holiday Season. Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 See my article on Slosh Tank Sealant in Section K3 of the Technicalities CD. Be aware of this additional advice from Mike Howell, who contacted me in 2009: It appears that Moss now recommend a 3 stage process using: Fuel Tank Cleaner Degreaser Fuel Tank Etching Fluid Fuel Tank Slushing Compound£80 worth in all !An additional problem with the PI is preventing the 3 small inlet/outlet pipes from becoming blocked with sealant. I treated my car's tank in 1997, and the 'fix' is working still! Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 I never get this It is a vessel holding volatile fuel,just renew it IMHO Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Willie Felger Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 Hi Brian, I would bite the bullet and buy an ally tank - I got mine from Lukas at the TR Shop Chiswick and have not regretted it. It was only £40 ish more than a steel one and is still perfectly clean after 12,000 miles in my TR3A. The steel tank in my TR6 was very rusty so I did the following: Remove from Car Stick in several handfuls of large sharp gravel and some hot soapy water Agitate the tank as violently and as long as possible Shake out the stones - together with a huge pile of loose rust Fill the tank with hot water and Bilt-Hamber's DEOX compound as per the instructions. After 2 doses over a couple of days it was a lot better but there was still rust in the corners so I cut two rectangular holes in the top either side of the filler and used various scrapers to scour out the remainder, which was softened by the DEOX and finally bonded and rivetted steel patches over the holes. It all took ages and the tank still isn't perfect. In your situation I would buy a new ally tank and be done with it. Good luck with your '57 TR3 - the best of all the Belgrove cars and I'm envious! Willie Felger '59 TR3A '72 TR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 Caveat emptor when it comes to buying a new fuel tank. Some are better than others. Some of the alloy tanks I've scrutinised over the years I wouldn't wish to utilise for storing domestic heating oil 20 yards from the house. That's how impressed I've been with the standard of fabrication. Total cr*p. A TR tank is a dozen gallons of highly volatile petrol a couple of foot behind your bum . . . . . and your wife's. If I was buying an alloy tank, it would be from Andy Wiltshire - I haven't seen another TR tank that even comes close. I'd also be buying a firewall from Revington and installing that first. Usual disclaimers Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 (edited) Caveat emptor when it comes to buying a new fuel tank. Some are better than others. Some of the alloy tanks I've scrutinised over the years I wouldn't wish to utilise for storing domestic heating oil 20 yards from the house. That's how impressed I've been with the standard of fabrication. Total cr*p. A TR tank is a dozen gallons of highly volatile petrol a couple of foot behind your bum . . . . . and your wife's. If I was buying an alloy tank, it would be from Andy Wiltshire - I haven't seen another TR tank that even comes close. I'd also be buying a firewall from Revington and installing that first. Usual disclaimers Cheers Alec My original post 60 Tr3a fuel tank was rusty and holed , found this out after removeing copious amounts of filler under the paint. I enquired with Andy Wiltshire on a Tr3a post 60 tank, they didnt make one, so i sent photos and templates of my tank to him, he then produced a tank for me. http://www.andywiltshire.com/Triumph%20TR%20Tanks.htm I am very very pleased with this tank, work of art, far to nice to be hidden away in the boot. And i think excellent value Cheers Guy Edited December 22, 2012 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 Hi Brian, http://www.andywiltshire.com/Triumph%20TR%20Tanks.htm The TR2/3 tank pictured is mine and the first that Andy fabricated from an original as a pattern. I second Guy's assertion that these are the best you can buy and a work of automotive art. Andy is one of the good guys and his attention to detail and his customer service is second to none. Rgds Rod. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 If you have you tank out of the car, it's always a good idea to put some large ball bearings in it and violently shake it before rinsing it out. They are very effective. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 There were 3 reasons why I didn't replace my tank when it was shedding rust into the fuel: 1 - it is the original 18-gallon tank, as homologated and fitted to the four Works' rally TR4s (hence, worthy of repair if possible) 2- no sign of any holes in the wall of the tank (i.e. just internal surface rust) 3 - cost of the Slosh Yank Sealant was not great, and my labour was 'free'! Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hicks51 Posted December 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 Thank you all so much for your advice and knowledge. I have yet to remove the tank, so I'll "take a view" about what to do when I get it out of the car. I hope you all have a great Christmas and happy new year. Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
carld Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 Brian Like Guy and Alec, I highly reccomend Andy Wiltshires tanks, I fitted mine only yesterday, as Guy says a work of art, cant bring myself to refit the tank cover board! Cheers Carl Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 (edited) Brian If you have an old steam wallpaper stripper take the end off and stick it into the tank and let it steam away for an hour or so, it helps remove any goopy stuff before washing with water. Pea shingle makes a great abbrasive as well. Stick the tank in a cement mixer switch it on for an hour and turn the tank round end for end every 5 minutes or so while drinking copious amounts of tea and telling the wife how hard you are working Cheers Alan Edited December 23, 2012 by Kiwifrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted December 24, 2012 Report Share Posted December 24, 2012 Brian, Just to endorse Alecs point, having the fuel tank out is an ideal time to fit an Alloy rear fireproof bulhead to your car (if not fitted previously). If in an accident or a roll having an alloy firewall fitted to the rear of the cockpit will very probably save you and your wifes life. Cost is about £50 from TR specialists (your choice) and they are easy to fit using non setting sealer between the wall and the stell shell, probably take you an afternoon and nobody can tell you've done it afterwards. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted December 25, 2012 Report Share Posted December 25, 2012 (edited) Andy's tanks look great. I have Dutch counterpart in my car. The guy who did mine welds fuel tanks for yachts that are able to cross the oceans. But I would very happy with one of Andy's in my car bay the looks of it. And then the price: 350 gbp minus the 80 gbp you should be spending on tank cleaner/sealer... 270 gbp nett for a major improvement of your TR!? A worthwhile investment in my book. Menno Edited December 25, 2012 by Menno van Rij Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hicks51 Posted April 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 Thanks to everyone above who contributed their advice on this topic at Christmas - either buy new or clean out old tank. In the end, I was overtaken by a terminal attack of seasonal laziness and ordered a new alloy tank from Andy Wiltshire (£350) and fitted it about 3 weeks ago. It really is a work of art and as others have commented, a shame to cover it up with trim panels! Andy called to make sure he got the measurements correct and all connections fitted without any problems - highly recommended. Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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