JayeM Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 A quick query for the experts, please..... How do I remove the Torrington (needle roller) bearing in the primary shaft that the nose of the mainshaft runs in? (It's actually my SP250 box, but the innards are the same as TR3A) Both my Daimler w/shop manual and my TR w/shop manual simply say "Withdraw the needle roller bearing"!! HOW?? I tried various means on an old primary shaft, but just ended up with the bearing outer stuck fast in the hole. Help greatly appreciated! (Do I just leave the current one alone if it seems OK??, do I take it to a machine shop & get them to change it??) Someone must have done it and knows the answer -- please? Many thanks in advance, John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 All these big bearing removal jobs come down to threaded rods, washers, big-sockets and such to generate a true axial pull. Or a proper hydraulic press. If you try to knock it out with a drift they tip and jam. The nearest photo I have of something similar is: http://flickr.com/gp/90670218@N04/Pn2283 This is tail-shaft bearings in an OD. Watch you dont bend anything. You can generate a lot of force with a set-up like this. When this came apart the shock-wave left my fingers numb for a day or so. So take care. Al. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 I think the outer bearing surface is part of the shaft and the needle roller just sits inside with the tongue of the output shaft inside that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayeM Posted December 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 Just to clarify, it's this little kiddie that sits inside the primary(input) shaft, and the mainshaft fits inside John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 Oh this is like the layshaft needle-rollers. I had to make a tool to get these out. Is the roller cage pushed right to the end on the pocket? I believe there should be a small gap behind it. This allows a small tool to get in and pull it out. Bend a paper-clip and feel about for this gap. Its about 1 to 2 mm only. I will sketch up the thing I made for this job if you want to know. The tool worked on the one of mine that was hard at the end, with no gap, but this will wreck the bearing. So if you do this its got to work! Wear in this bearing is one of the things that spoils the synchromesh action. Al. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayeM Posted December 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 Thanks Al, I'd appreciate a drawing when you have time - yes, there's about a 2mm gap behind the bearing. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 John, Are you around this week? I think I have the tool you need to use here in the garage. Give me a ring and we can arrange for you to drop by with your first motion shaft and check the tool is suitable. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 In addition to the two "jaws" you will want: a length of threaded rod to match a tube that just goes over the roller a nut and some washers I made the jaws with a lathe, a hacksaw and a file from 3mm gauge-plate but a thick washer would probably do. You have to fiddle around filing the jaws down until you can get them flat in behind the roller. The fit on the rod needs to be as good as possible. These roller were not terribly tightly fitted. Its just you cant get hold of them. I made an aluminium "plug" to go in the new roller to push it back in. Al Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayeM Posted December 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 Thanks Peter - I'll give you a ring later in the week when I have the box apart. Thanks Al - I'll make this up during this week and see how I go. Cheers, John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 (edited) I have a spare box. Its been hacked about to fit a Dart I think. Big chunk out of the bell-housing. If you have a lathe you might make a slightly fancier shape that extends into the roller area. This will keep the jaws in better alignment whilst you pull. I had to get one out with no gap behind it. I jacked the jaws into the gap between the cage and the rollers. Fortuanately this worked. Is your Dart a fetching pink shade? Have you been to the Harpenden show in July? I may have admired this car. Last year I chatted to a lady driving a black MGB. Wouldn't be yours would it? Al. Edited December 9, 2012 by AlanT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 10, 2012 Report Share Posted December 10, 2012 (edited) Thanks Peter - I'll give you a ring later in the week when I have the box apart. Thanks Al - I'll make this up during this week and see how I go. Cheers, John I measured the internal bearing puller I have today, sorry John but the tool will not expand enough for the TR needle roller cage. I will photo it so you can see how it is made. (so long as I can work out how to attach a photo!) Cheers Peter W Edited December 10, 2012 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MCOOPER53 Posted December 11, 2012 Report Share Posted December 11, 2012 John, I removed the bearing on my 3A by first breaking off the top of the needle roller case with a suitable chisel and then with a small screwdrive filed to a point I hammered this between the bearing case and the input shaft, this split the bearing casing and could then be pulled out with pliers. Not very elegant I know, but it worked. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 11, 2012 Report Share Posted December 11, 2012 (edited) Internal bearing removal slide hammer - pic attached This tool will fit in 1/2" bearing. The big lump at the RH end is the slide hammer. The wing nut is tightened to expand the split collet in the bearing. Cheers Peter W Edited December 11, 2012 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayeM Posted December 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2012 Thanks for the update, Peter, and thanks for the reminder that brute force works too, Mcooper53! Cheers, John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayeM Posted December 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2012 Thanks for the pic, Peter - we crossed in the post! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted December 11, 2012 Report Share Posted December 11, 2012 I did this on the layshaft bearings too. Don't think a slide-hammer or the chiselmethod will work in there. Al. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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