Jim Allen Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 Hi to all you experts out there, What modernisation or modifications have you done or would you do to a TR2 to make it, as best can be done, a "modern daily driver" and not worrying about concourse originality? Cheers Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 I would say Hi-Torque starter, spin on oil filter, Girling rear axle (I am a diehard and kept the Lockheed), radiator without crank hole, silicone brake fluid, and 165 tires. Others might say add an alternator for any additional electrics, but I like the original generator and control box. Should add a radiator protection cross piece, possibly strengthen the rear lever arm brackets, and probably add some additional brighter brake lights. Just my 2 cents. Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
billg Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 Hi Jim I have a TR3A , not quite a TR2 but I had a few decisions to make when I decided to restore it and convert it from LHD to RHD. I followed the usual route of going to R & P steering ( especially relevant if you are going LHD to RHD , or vice versa) This usually means going to new narrow alloy pulleys on the crank, water pump and alternator ( replacing the dynamo ). I also changed the polarity from + earth to - Earth and fitted a voltmeter instead of an ammeter. I had the split steering column , as found on mostly 3A's so also opted for a Moto Lita woodrim wheel which I really like. It turned out that vietnamese stainless steel bumpers were much cheaper than attempting to rechrome my old ones so was amazed when they came by Cathay Pacific airmail all the way to Scotland in just a week!!!!! ( Harringtons, not quite perfect but a great buy) I added seperate orange flashers at the front and new small TR4A white lenses with LED bulbs, using the old sidelight locations for orange glasses. Considering adding an overdrive which is a bit complex if you start with a saloon box, but that is I thought a cheaper way to go but perhaps not! I'd add a radio as then you worry less about all the odd noises! Kind regards Bill G @ NB Scotland Quote Link to post Share on other sites
setron Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 Jim An overdrive in a TR two is good, especially when going on long trips and makes it fun to drive. Cheers Shane. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 orange bulbs inside the front flashers halogen conversion new rad without the hole narrow pulleys pull fan behind the rad; with manual override on the dash alternator (Denso - one from a Kubota gardening machine is perfect) 123 ignition (can be build into the original housing using and cap) coil mounted to the left inner wing proper tap on the fuel line totally new built wiring loom with additional relays (I opted for the Advance Auto Wiring version) change from + to - earth Period correct volt meter on a 2, I would also consider a brake light upgrade like the nacelle from Racetorations/Racemettle TR6 J-type overdrive with Logic device and warning light on the dash plugged hole on the inlet manifold: ready to use for a brake booster chassis re-enforced: RevingtonTR does a great kit on that poly bushes all around slotted disks Green Stuff brake pads new brake pipes, routed nicely braided hoses all around + clutch new fuel pipe alloy fuel tank (the first thing I bought when I started restoring my car!) standard pistons standard cam balanced crank lighter flywheel In short, my cars upgrades... For this winter, I'm considering some cosmetics... removing the gauges, removing the glass and having them coated with an anti reflective coating (like glasses, watch crystals etc. - just busy finding out how expensive that is). Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 My first TR2, bought in 1963 was standard and didn't have overdrive. It didn't take long to convince me that two things were vital: disc front brakes (too many hairy moments on drums) and overdrive (to give restful cruising at 100mph - possible back then). So, my second TR2 (bought in 1964) had both these - just wish I had known about the ease with which I could have changed to a Girling rear axle, as I would have saved a lot of money on replacement of oil seals in the hubs! Would also go for steel or alloy wheels - wire wheels are expensive to maintain and very difficult to clean. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 Billy G, interesting comment about the radio to drown out all the strange noises, they can be a worry at times. I made up the radio and speaker box from the details in TeriAnns web pages with a repro radio and twin voice coil speaker. Works well Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
angelfj Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 Hi to all you experts out there, What modernisation or modifications have you done or would you do to a TR2 to make it, as best can be done, a "modern daily driver" and not worrying about concourse originality? Cheers Jim I have been told that TR2 braking is a little iffy. According to my notes, many TR2's were upgraded to front disc brakes when that option became available. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 (edited) Consider fitting Dunlop centre lock alloy wheels (if you've got wires). I did this on my 3A but I've also got a set of new chrome 72 spoke wires for shows etc. If you'd like photo's of my alloy wheels then please PM me your eMail address. Personally, I find that Minilite wheels don't suit the side screen cars. Tom. Edited November 13, 2012 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 Our 2 was raced by several drivers in its day. It still has drum brakes, they coped so can I. One reversible mod during rebuild was the modified suspension. I know you'll think that's all illogical but handling makes a car a joy. Discs just save on underwear. JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 In addition to the rest above: In preperation of a trip to Scotland last May, I replaced my wipermotor with a more modern tr6/mbg wipermotor, replaced the gear to fit the angles on the TR2 screen/wipers. Besides that I replaced the original one-step wiperswitch to a 2-step switch (the tr2 lightswitch). Works like a charm in really moisture climates... Added a kenlow fan, which fitted exactly in front of the radiator. Stainless steel exhaust, without the mid silencer, but that's just for the fun when accelerating every day... vvrrroooaaappp.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PeteT Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 Leave it alone. Buy a ford instead Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Bazzano Posted November 16, 2012 Report Share Posted November 16, 2012 Here is what I have done for my '54: new high torque starter 3a disc brakes silicone fluid new center quick-flashing LED brake light strip above/behind fuel filler new flex brake and clutch hoses all original brake and clutch components rebuilt engine rebuilt Not that hot here in northern Cal. so original cooling system has been fine so far. TR2 small mouths direct air better than a TR3a. And my trips tend to be out of heavy traffic areas, just back country pleasure runs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Allen Posted November 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2012 "all original brake and clutch components rebuilt" Thanks John, I am going to go discs at the front. Did you utilise the original Lockheed master cylinder or did you change that to the Girling one and have you fitted a booster as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Bazzano Posted November 17, 2012 Report Share Posted November 17, 2012 Jim, I rebuilt the original Lockheed unit myself with a Moss repair kit. Had to hone both bores out with increasing grades of emery cloth, but the unit works fine with no leaks. Stopping power is good, no booster. Would strongly suggest better brake lights. The original single center unit is really marginal. My flashing LEDs are hard to miss now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deggers Posted November 17, 2012 Report Share Posted November 17, 2012 (edited) Hi there Jim, A company in the US produces an LED panel, tailored specifically to fit inside the rear Lucas L549 light housing. I've not got them myself - but if you're looking for possible upgrades, they might be worth considering. Here's a link to their website : BMC Autos.com Modifying your rear TR2 sides to operate as brake lights would probably be a good idea too : Cheers, Deggers Edited November 17, 2012 by Deggers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Graham Posted November 17, 2012 Report Share Posted November 17, 2012 ... new center quick-flashing LED brake light strip above/behind fuel filler John, do you have any pics of your installation and source for LEDs? I plan on trying to make all three rear lights works as brake lights, but interested in the flashing LED option too. Cheers, Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Bazzano Posted November 17, 2012 Report Share Posted November 17, 2012 Mike, Here's a shot of my extra brake light................bought it online at E-Bay. The electronics to make it flash I got from a fellow in Arizona. He makes them up personally and charged around $20. I'll try to find more info on both items................who and where.........etc. As you can see from the pic, the way I placed it precludes using the top, but then I rarely use the car in bad weather. John B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted November 17, 2012 Report Share Posted November 17, 2012 I designed and built one that overcomes the problem so it doesn't get covered when you install the top, the tonneau cover or the hood stick cover. If I ever enter my 1958 TR3A in a TRA type concours show, it takes about 2 minutes to remove. No one can tell it was there with the top up during the judging. I desinged it large enough to be seen. A TR friend following me at night told me it's like a flame thrower when I step on the brakes. And it dosn't inerfere with the gas fill cap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted November 17, 2012 Report Share Posted November 17, 2012 BTW John, may I suggest you turn the gas fill cap you show in your photo so that the flip latch is towards the side of the car behind where the driver sits. The way you have it pointed downwards, someone will offer to hold your boot lid up and they will lift it too high and when it hits the point of the flip latch, it will leave a ding in the paintwork of the lid. Mine came new with it to the driver`s side, because it`s the driver who steps out of his TR to fill the tank and if the flip latch is to that side it is easier to reach. On TRs with RHD, the flip latch is to the other side. See how mine is in the two photos above. BTW, I sent you a personal message which you can retreive by clicking on the spot at the top of the page next to your name where you logged in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Louis Metelko Posted November 18, 2012 Report Share Posted November 18, 2012 I agree with the leave it alone - buy a Ford My 54 TR2 is totally stock with cannister filter, dynamo, worm & peg, 155X15 tyres and 15 X 4" steel wheels etc. yet it routinely travels our Interstates at 80 MPH. The 2 even wears its, as born, colours of Ice Blue exterior with Geranium trim. It was finished in 2003 and we have traveled over 32,000 miles since. Simply put, it is the most dependable car I have ever owned. I will never understand "Mods" since they do nothing more than delute the car's value. I would not have it any other way! Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana USA Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted November 18, 2012 Report Share Posted November 18, 2012 I agree with the leave it alone - buy a Ford My 54 TR2 is totally stock with cannister filter, dynamo, worm & peg, 155X15 tyres and 15 X 4" steel wheels etc. yet it routinely travels our Interstates at 80 MPH. The 2 even wears its, as born, colours of Ice Blue exterior with Geranium trim. It was finished in 2003 and we have traveled over 32,000 miles since. Simply put, it is the most dependable car I have ever owned. I will never understand "Mods" since they do nothing more than delute the car's value. I would not have it any other way! Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana USA I love it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 Disc brakes will work perfectly well with the original, combined, master cylinder. Make sure that the flexible hoses (best to use those with steel braiding) mate correctly with the bundy tubing as well as the caliper, and it may be necessary to re-position the the end of the bundy to ensure that the flexible remains clear at all times (i.e. must not touch wheel/tyre or get trapped by the suspension). Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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