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Graham Harris

Choke hard to pull out

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Its very often caused by the clamp on the front carb that holds the outer choke cable being tightened too much so it crushes it down on the inner. Best solution is to make up a ferrule that can be soldered over the end of the outer so the clamp has an easier grip. Remove the inner cable out of the way first and use a piece of 3/16 copper brake pipe to make up the ferrule. Some people remove the link back to the rear carb and just choke the front but to my mind this isnt too good a solution.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart

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My choke was nearly impossible to operate. I fitted a ferrule from a Mini (1966) throttle cable to the end of the outer cable so that the clamp doesn't 'strangle' the inner cable. This ferrule slips over the outer cable and doesn't require soldering etc.

I would recommend that you coat the inner cable with plenty of graphite grease. Make sure that the outer cable is saturated by continually removing the inner cable and reapplying more grease.

Another source of heavy choke cable operation is caused by twisting the inner cable too much. My method is to secure the cable to the trunnion then remove the trunnion complete with cable from the carb. and twist it two or three complete turns in a clockwise direction and secure back on to the choke lever. This also makes the choke control 'lock on' when you release it.

My choke can now be operated with just one hand and is very light. I also re-routed the cable from where it comes out into the engine bay next to the solenoid and fed it through the hole just above the pedals. This gives the cable a straighter run.

 

Tom.

Edited by Fireman049

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Hello Tom,

 

I've done the ferrule thing and the cable runs well enough but it doesn't stay out. Your method of getting the right degree of twist into the cable is simply brilliant. Thanks!

 

Willie F

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Find an original pull and cable works a treat :D

 

Unfortunately easier said than done these days. :(

Stuart.

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My choke was nearly impossible to operate. I fitted a ferrule from a Mini (1966) throttle cable to the end of the outer cable so that the clamp doesn't 'strangle' the inner cable. This ferrule slips over the outer cable and doesn't require soldering etc.

I would recommend that you coat the inner cable with plenty of graphite grease. Make sure that the outer cable is saturated by continually removing the inner cable and reapplying more grease.

Another source of heavy choke cable operation is caused by twisting the inner cable too much. My method is to secure the cable to the trunnion then remove the trunnion complete with cable from the carb. and twist it two or three complete turns in a clockwise direction and secure back on to the choke lever. This also makes the choke control 'lock on' when you release it.

My choke can now be operated with just one hand and is very light. I also re-routed the cable from where it comes out into the engine bay next to the solenoid and fed it through the hole just above the pedals. This gives the cable a straighter run.

 

Tom.

 

 

Tom,

 

Can you send me a pic of the ferrule solution? I'm not sure I fully understand what you mean (sometimes my English isn't good enough...) I think you have my email address. If not, just let me know (PM).

 

Menno

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Stuart, Tom

 

TuRK's choke has had the same problem for years - could you please post photos of your ferrule solutions?

 

Thanks

Andrew

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Thanks for the sugestions so far,i think the joke cable is probably the main culperit . The original one had a bend in the end to direct it away from the heater behind the dash, i though it was creating friction so bent it the other way and you guest it, the end broke off. Never mind i got a new one from TRF and i found that it needed a little bend , so thats what i did and that one broke as well. I did manage to screw the outer cable back into the housing but i am not sure if it is binding so i got a new one from Moss UK . This one hasn't been fitted as yet and i'm not sure if the quality is up to it, its verry stiff to pull out and push in, lots of lubricant dosn't seem to make it any better. I have found that with the inner disconected from the choke lever the cable is quite free but as soon as its back on it's hard work. Maybe thats the way it is:

Regards Graham

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My Saab had the same problems: the choke cable runs through the firewall and makes a sharp 'S' turn at the end where it's attached to the Weber 34ICH. At the end of a lot of troubles, I went to a local bike shop, bought a proper length inner and outer cable from a well reputated mountain bike company (Speciaiized I think) and attached one end at the rear of the choke knob and the other end to the carb. Point is, the bike cable is longer than the original one (+20%), making the 'S' bend less sharp and... the inside of the high end bike cable is teflon coated! Making it a lot easier to use! There's hardly any friction.

 

Many years ago (mid 90s) when I owned a Spitfire, I had choke cable problems too. I bought one from Moss (Dutch branch Imparts) and things got even worse. After hours of investigation (blaming the f***ing SUs...) I realised that every time I pulled the choke knob, I wasn't pulling the inner cable, but somehow the outer cable interfered with the back end of the choke knob and I was constantly pulling the outer cable against the back of the dashboard! Check that before you do anything else!

 

Menno

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Menno, Andrew - I'll take a photo. this afternoon and send it to you.

Graham, that's exactly how my choke was before I sorted it out. See my previous reply and follow the instructions.

 

Tom.

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Not exactly the same but this is an example of a ferrule end to fit over the outer cable. Mouse over the image for a closer view. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROT262-MINI-BIKE-THROTTLE-CABLE-53-INNER-CABLE-HOUSING-48-BARREL-BALL-/221135690003?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337cb6d913

Stuart.

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Menno, Andrew -

 

Do you want the good news or the bad news? When I went to photograph the ferrule I found it wasn't there!

I had fitted one when I was trying to sort out the choke problem but obviously I removed it during on-going tests!

My outer cable is just 'nipped' by the clamp - the secret is do not over tighten the clamp.

 

Tom.

 

 

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In my experience choke outer cables tend to be too long hence when they are secured to the carburettor clamp this leaves a lot of 'slack' which affects the smooth operation of the choke. I fitted my outer cable to the clamp and measured how much of it protruded beyond the clamp and cut it flush. I then only tightened the clamp enough to just 'pinch' the outer cable.

This method gives you a virtually straight run for the cable.

 

Tom.

Edited by Fireman049

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Yes but you do have to be careful how you cut the outer so as not to leave any sharp edges that may affect the inner.

Stuart.

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The choke seems to be notoriously hard to pull out on these cars. I disconnected the rear carburettor so the choke only works on the front one. The operation is now light and the car will start even in cold weather.

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Yes but you do have to be careful how you cut the outer so as not to leave any sharp edges that may affect the inner.

Stuart.

 

Cutting disc on a Dremel is the safest option.

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I have always been told to completely depress the accelerator pedal first before pulling out the choke knob. This relieves the pressure on the mechanism and results in easier operation.

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I agree with Frank.......have always found it easier to step on the throttle first, then pull out the choke.

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Hi Folks ~

 

Take it from me, if you set up the system properly you can operate the choke easily with one hand ~ it worked on my TR2 and then on my TR3A.

If you find yourselves anywhere near north Wales call in and see me and I'll help you out.

 

Regards ~

 

tom. :)

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