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Steering rack conversion and shocks


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Hi all - this is my first post on the forum. I have 1959 3A undergoing a full restoration at present and got a general question regarding the benefits of a steering rack conversion and uprated shocks/poly bushes. I'm only intending to use the car for road use. Does anyone have any suggestions as to the best products out there and anything I should look for? Is there other things I should be looking at?

 

Thanks Archie

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Archie

 

I've got a 1961 3A and have kept the steering standard with the exception of 105063 (silent bloc and pin) - I replaced them with Moss 105063X - expensive but .... anything to make the steering a bit lighter, and it did. I don't even notice the "heavy" steering anymore when driving the TR and have an everyday "Jeep" with PAS, which is lighter but not nearly as much fun. I've not driven a "rack" TR3A so can't comment on it's performance.

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Converting to rack and pinion was one of the improvements I deferred in the rebuild of my TR3A.

All the advice is that this is one of the best upgrades available, but I wanted to experience the feel of a sidescreen car in first class mechanical condition for the first time in 34 years (at the time) of TR ownership (albeit with uprated springs and dampers).

 

Five years on and 19,000 miles of fairly enthusiastic driving, much of it on country roads and ex-rally territory, I've no reason to change anything. If the steering box eventually becomes a little vague I would probably fit the Revington spring-loaded top cover (any comments/experiences with this?) and may well replace the silent blocs with Delrins. However, I doubt I'll ever fit one of the bolt-on rack and pinion conversions which would change the character of the car unless I really need to due to failing strength.

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Hi BrianC ~

I fitted one of the Revington spring loaded steering box top covers but found little, if any, benefit from it so I flogged it on!

I fitted a TR Bitz R&P conversion ~ to which I carried out my own personal upgrades. I certainly wouldn't go back to the

original steering.

If anyone would be interested in seeing my additions to the TR Bitz R&P set-up then please PM me your eMail address.

Tom.

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Be aware that a number of the R&P conversions increase the already rather large turning circle of the sidescreen cars.

So, ask the question of each of the suppliers before purchasing.

I know of one conversion which does NOT change the turning circle.

 

Konis are probably the best, but not cheap. Spax, too, offer adjustment.

 

Ian Cornish

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Down side also of the R&P conversion is the loss of a functional horn push and indicator control head in the centre of the steering wheel.

Nice light steering though, and it will self centre better if you increase the castor angle to TR4 later type 3 degree.

 

Cheers

Peter W

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I rebuilt the standard steering box and fitted Delrin bushes and the steering is heavy but okay until you drive a hairpin fast and then you notice that it's very heavy.

 

I've got Koni front shocks and agree they are superb.

 

They are a lovely old car, I think they have tremendous appeal, there's just something special about them, but nothing will ever make them as good as a modern, so why alter them. Original is best IMO.

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PeterW -

I fitted a fully functioning and self cancelling steering column indicator/horn/headlight flasher switch to my TR3A.

A switch from a Mini Cooper Mk2 (1967) can be fitted.

Again, if anybody wants photo's of the set-up please PM me your eMail address.

 

Tom.

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Hi Fellow TR3A owners

 

As you could see on the forum on Sunday, I am now 74 years old, but I´m not waiting to ¨Pop my Cloggs¨yet anyway, as long as I can enjoy life in the sun and driving my TR3A, which has TR BItz R&P steering, 3º caster angle, poly bushes all round etc. etc.

Now last week we went for a two day drive through the High Sierras here in Spain where we reached an altitude of 1600 metres at one point (others close to that) on roads which were excellent surface but very narrow in some places, so much so that you had to slow down or even stop for an on coming car (thank God no lorries came round those steep hairpins) Gradients required 2nd and 3rd gear work and even the hairpins had one end of it much higher that the other end so the gradients didn´t change going round them, and shear drops on the one side of you, in too many cases for the Memsahib.

The point I am making is that the R&P made all the difference, as at the end of each day I had no fatigue due to the steering, so for me it was a very good buy, and I am glad I fitted it along with the narrow belt conversion and a suction Kenlowe, which all together meant that we did not experience overheating in day temps. of 20º-25ºC midday.

One thing I have noticed since being home and cleaning the car, was that the overrider closest to the exhaust outlet, had gone a straw colour through the heat coming out of the exhaust pipe, so the heat wrap material I installed on the 4 branch banana and the first part of the pipe before the cruciform has obviously been doing it´s work, forcing the heat out of the rear of the car and not into the cab or the seats, so the gas flow must be faster and more beneficial for the engine performance.

Can´t wait to do another trip soon, fortunately we don´t have to ¨Lay Up¨our TR3A for winter, and if it ain´t raining on Xmas Day and New Year´s DAy we will be off exploring more of this country we now call home.

 

Dave

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One thing I have noticed since being home and cleaning the car, was that the overrider closest to the exhaust outlet, had gone a straw colour through the heat coming out of the exhaust pipe, so the heat wrap material I installed on the 4 branch banana and the first part of the pipe before the cruciform has obviously been doing it´s work, forcing the heat out of the rear of the car and not into the cab or the seats, so the gas flow must be faster and more beneficial for the engine performance.

 

I know what you mean! Gives the car a well used look after a long trip!

 

Menno

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Hi Archie,

11 posts and nobody has welcomed you. Welcome to the forum. As you can see there are some diehards here as well as techno-fiends.

 

Contact Glen Hewitt at Protek in Wallingford. He made the first one and has all the answers - contacts in TRaction.

 

Roger

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Blimey I'm overwhelmed by all the responses and all so well considered too plus the other tips like the Delrins and Kenlowe fan are gold dust to a newbie. The turning circle was something I hadn't considered either nor the loss of original horn push function... the Revington kit was the one I'd seen on the web but will check out the others. It is a very good point about not trying to make a modern car but I guess I'd like to get that balance of some of what 21st century can offer and the hope is lots of long drives in France/Spain/Italy at some point so a bit of comfort and the option for my better half to do a bit of the driving is something to consider. Koni shocks were top of my list too so that's encouraging.

 

Thanks again everyone for such a great response... I'll be back!

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Hi Archie

My 58 3a has a rack and nylon bushes with front anti roll bar.It drives well with light precise steering.Indicators and horn operate from ergonomic switches to right of steering wheel.I have driven cars with the box and with other conversions.In every case the rack was a real improvement. It's the one mod you should do. I agree Glen at Protek is your man.

Best regards Tom

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Hi Archie - welcome aboard!

I have a Moto Lita steering wheel and hub which allows me to have the horn push in the centre of the wheel. I have used a TR4 stalk for the indicators which do not self cancel, buit that doesn´t worry me, so maybe I have the best of both worlds.If it´s a choice between original wheel and hornpush and indicators in the centre, or an R&P unit, then in my opinion there is no contest, it´s R&P every time.

 

Dave

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Graham says that the turning circle on his car has increased after fitting R&P, and this was the potential problem which I had described earlier in this topic.

As far as I am aware, only one supplier has a system which does NOT increase the turning circle.

I think it's important to ask this question when shopping around - unless you really don't care about the inconvenience.

 

Ian Cornish

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Hi Graham

 

What is your new turning circle in feet? and is it the same to the right as to the left? I too have the TR Bitz conversion, and wouldn´t change it for the world, it´s too confortable on Mountain roads with plenty of hairpin bends as we experienced two weeks ago.

 

Dave

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Hi Dave,

I did a left hand circle and came up with 32 feet which is suprising because that is only one foot more than the original 31 foot turning circle. I will go out again tomorow and measure a right hand circle and yes you are right it is a pleasure to drive with the rack and pinion steering. A friend has a TR2 and i let him have drive and he could not believe how much better it was, he said i'v got to have one of these;

Regards Graham.

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I've just spoken to Glen at Protek (very very helpful indeed so thanks for the heads up) and looks like I will be getting a kit from them. They do a fix which allows a centre horn push although not self cancelling indicators but I don't see that as a problem. The Protek kit does increase the turning circle a bit but in light of Graham's comment above its quite a small percentage and also as Glen said because the steering is so much lighter occasionally doing a three point turn isn't really any big deal.

 

Thanks again I'll let you know how I get on.

 

Regards, Archie

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