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Pockets to door cards


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Hi Chaps,

 

Getting the interior back together, the door pockets were detached from the door card panels.

 

Looks as if they should have been fitted prior to the vinyl covering?.

 

How were they originaly fitted?

 

Looks like my only option now. as vinyl is nicely on the panel would be to glue it. <_<

 

 

One step forward and two back......

Thought i would check out the pockets position in relation to the door lock cable,

guess what the cable snapped :(

 

Thanks

 

Cheers

Guy

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Indeed, they are fitted before covering the panels with vinyl. Here's a pic of my home made pockets and my home made panels. I drilled holes through the panels and and edges of the panels and put it all together with carpet glue (industrial quality) - the black stuff you see at the edges of the pocket's panels and a the copper strip like the one shown below (dunno the English word for them). The vinyl covered the copper nicely. In your case, I would consider a same quality glue and hope for the best.

 

In hindsight, I made a mistake: the pocket edge and the lock pull cable collide: when I pull the cord down, it touches the edges of the pocket - over the years, the upper edge of cardboard is a little worn. But no one sees, so I don't mind.

I wanted to install pockets that looked better than the ugly ones sold by Moss. I overlooked the fact that there's limited space between the inside of the panel and the inside of the door panel; about 2"! Luckily, the pocket is slightly thinner than 2" and it's a snug fit. But that was pure luck!

 

When I installed the door panels, I noticed that mine were a little too large: I had seen 'proper fitting' panels in a 3A and was disgusted about the fact that it looked soooo cheap: these panels didn't cover the inside of the door completely, so I opted for larger ones. Too large... I had to remove the vinyl from the lower edge, cut away 1/2" of the panel (with an angled cutter on a Dremel) and re-apply the vinyl. That went smooth. So, there's a chance you can remove the vinyl without harming it. Ask yourself: is the vinyl glued to the panel or is it glued to the thin underlayer? Perhaps the underlayment is glued to the panel and the vinyl is only covering the underlayer and is only glued to the backside of the panel. - If you know what I mean.

 

Menno

 

Not my best piece in English - hope you're able to understand my message

 

P1000396.jpg

 

P1000067.jpg

 

http___images.xml-solutions.nl_ImageWarehouse_Images_SPICERS_Web_777056_P.jpg

Edited by Menno van Rij
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Guy

 

I recently replaced the disintegrating door pockets on my 3A. It was clear that they had also been fitted after the vinyl was applied to the door card (thin ply actually). The pockets had been secured from the rear of the door card by small self tapping screws, cut down to the depth of the door card and washers. When installing new pockets, I glued the side flaps of the pocket to the rear of the door card. These are quite thick card and need to be bent back firmly. I then used the cut down self tapping screws with washers to screw through the flaps from the rear of the door which were able to grip into the card. All is very secure.

 

The door lock cable rests on the vertical edges of the pockets and over the years of use had cut down into the pockets. To minimise this in future, I cut and then split a small section of clear plastic washer hose and glued it over the vertical edge of the pocket on which the cable rests. It cannot be seen and provides some protection to that edge. However, as I so rarely have the side-screens installed, I tend to use the exterior handle when exiting!

 

Hope that makes sense - others may have other solutions.

 

Miles

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Miles - Door pockets secured from the rear, fixed with small self tapping screw

And "thin ply actually" ?

 

Not originally, I think.

 

The door card was most certain card, not ply.

 

And AFAIR the pockets were held with a split rivet

(but I will check back and see what photos I have to confirm)

 

The original "padding" was a whispy thin sheet, not glued to

the card or the vinyl covering.

 

AlanR

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The door pockets were originally fixed with small bifurcated rivets from the front side of the card. To save you having to remove the vinyl use this glue. http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1263-heat-resistant-adhesive.aspx There should be a cutout on each upright side of the pocket for the cable to sit in. FWIW most bike shops can supply a replacement pull cable.

Stuart.

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The door pockets were originally fixed with small bifurcated rivets from the front side of the card. To save you having to remove the vinyl use this glue. http://www.woolies-t...t-adhesive.aspx There should be a cutout on each upright side of the pocket for the cable to sit in. FWIW most bike shops can supply a replacement pull cable.

Stuart.

 

 

'bifurcated rivets'! One learns new things every day!

 

Indeed, my cables are from a bike shop - even the endstops are from that shop. They have several sorts to choose from.

 

Menno

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Thanks Menno, Miles, Alan and Stuart, :)

 

As i am not removing the vinyl for this i have glued them in place, seems sorted.

Next stop bike shop.

 

Then sort out why my windscreen wiper motor causes the fuse to blow the moment its connected. :( New loom, original wiper motor

and switch.

 

Cheeers

GUY

Edited by JerseyRoyal2
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Then sort out why my windscreen wiper motor causes the fuse to blow the moment its connected. :( New loom, original wiper motor

and switch.

 

Lucky the fuse saved it. Any incorrect connections of the wiper motor usually fries it. Check the cable voltages very carefully before connecting any of them and make sure it's right for the version of the motor fitted. I learned the hard (and expensive) way many years ago and am now uber cautious!

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If you reverse the connections on a wiper-motor with self-parking it will only "fry" the self-parking contact. The windings will be OK. I know, I did it last week. Its not hard to get or replace self-parking contacts.

 

If it does not have self-parking I reckon you can only blow the fuse. Unless its one with a "over-heat cutout". Don't know what happens with these.

 

Incidentally I have spare wiper-motors.

 

Al.

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If you reverse the connections on a wiper-motor with self-parking it will only "fry" the self-parking contact. The windings will be OK. I know, I did it last week. Its not hard to get or replace self-parking contacts.

 

If it does not have self-parking I reckon you can only blow the fuse. Unless its one with a "over-heat cutout". Don't know what happens with these.

 

Incidentally I have spare wiper-motors.

 

Al.

 

 

Well, i have fixed it.

 

The connection on the motor (for power green cable) had continuity with earth. <_<

 

I took the motor out and there are two arms that hold the brushes on the armature, they have a spring that holds them in place, well the

spring had detached itself from one arm. And both are where all over the place.

 

The spring is fitted to a card type board that goes through the arms, shaped a bit like a T, it was in bits in the casing.

 

Doesnt look like you can get these parts, well no where i have looked thus far. So i made my own out of a piece of plastic.

 

 

All back together and works perfectly, i will be revisting this as the brushes are ready for replacement.

 

Thanks for all replys

 

Guy

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Hi Guy -

 

I fabricated my door pockets using aluminium. I covered the inside of the pockets with black vinyl. They were 'pop' rivetted to the door card from the outside. I then recovered the door card with black vinyl - very easy. I also drilled two 5/16" holes in the bottom of the pockets to drain any rainwater. If you PM me your eMail address I'll send you some phooto's.

 

Tom.

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Funnily enough I was asked for some today!

FWIW there are loads on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=bifurcated+rivets&_frs=1 also listed under split rivets. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=split+rivets&_sacat=0&_from=R40 and several other spellings of bifurcated :lol:

Stuart.

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