Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
delboy

tipping valve

Recommended Posts

How can I reset tipping valve in master cylinder on Tr6 can it be done with M/Cylinder still in car??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Delboy,

 

Not sure what you mean reset tipping valve? The tipping valve is in the brake MC and is 'tipped' when the internal front MC shaft knocks the valve to let more fluid into the chamber. Theres no resetting it as far as I know. Its either working or its knackered!

Did you mean replace the tipping valve? If so then yes I suppose so, but you have to remove the MC reservoir, and to get to those screws that hold it on, you'd have to get triple jointed hands to get to them!....this is not withstanding the mess etc you'd make removing the reservoir.

For what its worth, 2 nuts and the unions into the MC, suck the old brake fluid out with a syringe (all of a few pence from the pharmacy) and whip it out onto a bench to do any work.

 

Hope it helps

 

Andrew

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are referring to the adjustment on the push bar that push's the M/C then yes, you will have to remove the M/C first. This can be done without having to remove the brake pipes..just remove the two nuts holding the M/C to the servo and gently move to one side to allow access to the adjustment.

 

Tony

 

Have you fitted that M/C yet Andrew?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for replys what I have done so far: I replaced front caliper & servo tried bleeding brakes only seem to have front brakes only i do not think there is air in system pedal seems good but brakes are poor does tipping valve cut off one part of dual system it is on a 1972 Tr6 ihave just had MC off again everything seems OK can push piston in freely About to re-bleed!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tipping valve only fills the front brake cavity. The rear section is filled via the hole in the end of the cylinder that gets covered when the seal on the end of the rod covers it.

Im sure youve seen this, but http://www.buckeyetr...s/MCPDWA/MC.htm

If its just the rears not pressurising, and without knowing what year and market your TR is from, some of the guys on the US site 6 pack have had issues with the PDWA causing issues, perhaps check that.

Another Stuart solution (copyright, all rights reserved PLC Ltd :D ) is to cut a length of wood, and jam it between the steering wheel/dash and brake pedal to keep the pedal depressed overnight. This allows any trapped air free passage up into the reservoir.

The rears are tricky to bleed though. The piston shifts alot less fluid than the fronts, and so takes a bit of pumping to get fluid moving thru the system.

 

Hope it helps

 

Andrew

Edited by AndrewP

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Andrew Thanks for your help.I have just re-bled the system.After a sudden rush of air from rear cylinder this seems to have cured problem don't know how or why but now have brakes on all 4 wheels...THANKS FOR YOUR HELP Delboy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.