Badfrog Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Hi, One info, one question: - The upper joint in some repros rad caps is too thick, so the valve does not apply correctly on the collar and leaks pressure. Car consumes water and heats up. - Who makes the best water pumps? I hear that six-vanes units cavitate and the original four-vanes should be preferred. Opinions? Badfrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
4Mal Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Hi JF. I was directed to the 4 vane and no problems with my modded engine. Mal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Hi JF, I also got a bog standard 4 vane apprx 2 years ago - all OK so far. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard V Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 1. Glad to hear that you found the problem with the water leakage. 2. Bastuck 4 blade greasable pump part number K12TR4 including TVA and French shipping 54 Euros. Works great on mine. The rebuilt engine has never even got to the half way mark on the guage. Even with 30 degrees in traffic on the Paris perifirique! (Try greasing the pump before fitting. My first one had a manufacturing defect. 2nd one was fine) For the ultimate info on pumps and the all important vane to housing clearance, read the TR Action article from Mr Cornish (Can't remember the issue number perhaps someone can help) Cheers, Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAnderson Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 It may not be the same article you're referring to but there was a good one in the technicalities page of issue 253. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Richard - I don't recollect having written an article about water pumps, so cannot take any credit! I think Paul is correct in pointing to the description in TR Action 253, which will have been written by either Ian Gibson or Tony Sheach - both of whom are extremely knowledgeable fellows and good friends. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badfrog Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Thanks for the input. I solved the cap riddle: I removed the rubber joint. There's a springy steel plate behind that works just nice against the top collar and then the valve applies correctly on the lower collar. Just tested: perfectly tight. Pressure , no leak. Two questions: - the new "grease packed" pumps are said to be better than the old ones with external grease tecalemits. Opinions? - what is the back clearance between the pump axle and the bottom of the pump housing attached to the engine? Cheers, Badfrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
angelfj Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Hi, One info, one question: - The upper joint in some repros rad caps is too thick, so the valve does not apply correctly on the collar and leaks pressure. Car consumes water and heats up. - Who makes the best water pumps? I hear that six-vanes units cavitate and the original four-vanes should be preferred. Opinions? Badfrog Hello JF - did you enjoy IWE? - we are using a NOS AC rad cap (4 psi) and it is working great. Grey Lady now has approx. 1000 miles on the clock and even during the 100 degree weather last month never exceeded approx. 2/3 temp gauge reading at tick-over - this is the 6-vane pump we are using - not sure where Brian found it, but it was in England - no cavitation. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard V Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Richard - I don't recollect having written an article about water pumps, so cannot take any credit! I think Paul is correct in pointing to the description in TR Action 253, which will have been written by either Ian Gibson or Tony Sheach - both of whom are extremely knowledgeable fellows and good friends. Ian Cornish Sorry Ian, I dont know why, but I had it in mind that it was from you. As paul said, it is in issue 253 and is on page 31. "A good pump has an impeller with a depth of 22mm. A new housing will be 22.8mm deep. So with the gasket you will have about 1.5mm of clearance." Few things in the world of mechanical maintenance beat the 'peace of mind' of seeing of old grease being forced out of an assy, by the new stuff going in Greasable gets my vote! I measured the clearance between my Bastuck pump impeller and the (TR Tony supplied) alu pump housing at 0.5mm. I make all my own gaskets out of 0.6mm gasket material. Cheers, Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badfrog Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Hi Frank, Great IWE. I had the time of my life, with bonus. Check the relevant forum for details (main forum). Re- pumps, I just found the back clearance value I was looking for in my books in the mess I call a garage. It's 0.015-0.030" i.e. 0.38-0.76 mm. The article I have says anything above 0.050" (1.252 mm) is wrong. Richard, your 0.50 mm figure is OK but adding 0.60 mm from the gasket puts you close to excessive clearance and the 1.50 mm value is way off. The [22.8-22]= 0.80 mm value is OK. Badfrog PS: New boot carpet and metal air duct installed. So chic. Wished I had more steel 'round the tub.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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