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How do you improve the brakes!


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Hi Steve,

Is it possible to swap the reservoirs? The castings look the same - but hard to tell from the photo!

Regards,

Michael.

Indeed Michael, that may be possible.

 

the Tr reservoir is held on by screws at either end, four in total, but the LR one just has two screws at the servo / front brakes end.

 

I shall experiment next week and report back.

 

I'm actually happy with the brakes as they are, the new calipers provide a distinct improvement in bite and progression.

 

However the pedal travel is a bit long, and quite light, so a larger bore MC would be ideal.

 

Steve

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Some Homework for you whilst i am away for a couple of days in Edinburgh !

 

Problem : the LR MC has different reservoir fittings to the TR one.

 

At the servo end, for the front brakes, the Reservoir bolts onto the MC as per the TR one.

 

However at the other end, for the rear brakes, the reservoir is a push fit into the MC, there is a little spring clip inside the bore that keeps it in place.

 

Thus the TR reservoir will not fit the LR MC :(

 

Your homework is to try to resolve this conundrum, I'm thinking remote reservoirs but how to connect them to the MC??

 

regards

 

Steve

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you could space the top of the servo away from the bulk head to alter the angle down, which would lower the master cylinder

 

Briliant!

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I have to say that this is a great thread. This kind of 'parts bin engineering' is just the kind of thing that floats my boat. Well done guys.

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Hi Guys, I don't have the part numbers with me, but will post them when I'm back along with supplier details.

 

Regards

 

Steve

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Cut it down to fit and get it plastic welded

 

Good thought Neil, thanks!

 

I knew setting homework forgot guys was the right idea!

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How and where can that be done, Neil?

 

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Most bodyshops have that equipment for modern plastic bumper repairs.

Stuart.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Update !

 

Yesterday I fitted the new rear wheel cylinders, 1" bore. ( up from 0.7 as standard)

 

Ran out of time to bleed the system yesterday as pub lunch was calling, but today i have done so and am pleased to report a noticeable further improvement.

 

So the combination of the Toyota four pot front calipers with the 1" rear wheel cylinders has provided a significant overall braking improvement.

 

This is, as i mentioned previously, a relatively cheap and worthwhile improvement that i copied form the VTR dot ORG website that's based in the US.

 

Pedal travel is increased by the larger capacity of the new calipers/cylinders, but i don't find this to be a problem.

 

I have not yet tried the larger bore Landrover Master Cylinder, and for the moment i am not going to bother as i am now happy with the brakes.

 

Total cost for the conversion has worked out at about £280.

 

:-)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Running report.......

 

The brakes work really well, apart from what is either pad knock back or perhaps some air in the system?

 

We had a weekend away last weekend, three days of fantastic sunshine :-) and the car was excellent.

 

However I'm experiencing the brake pedal needing a pump to get a solid pedal.

 

Just one pump does it and then the brakes are very good.

 

The problem returns quite quickly, in normal driving or enthusiastic driving it seems the same.

 

So is this pad knock back or perhaps some residual air in the system following all the disturbance?

 

The rears are adjusted correctly.

I have bled the system front and back.

 

I've obviously had the front hubs, callipers and rear wheel cylinders off.

 

What do you think?

 

Steve

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Possibly Roger!

 

I will investigate at the weekend, I did think I had set them correctly but perhaps they were not seated properly when I put the hubs back on?

 

Steve

Edited by SDerbyshire
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Try pumping the pedal up hard and then jam it down overnight with a bid of wood. That will eliminate any remaining air and obviously make sure that the bearings are adjusted correctly and not overtight as they are taper bearings.

Stuart.

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  • 4 months later...

Try pumping the pedal up hard and then jam it down overnight with a bid of wood. That will eliminate any remaining air and obviously make sure that the bearings are adjusted correctly and not overtight as they are taper bearings.

Stuart.

 

Out of interest Stuart (cause I don't know), if you do have residual air in the system, where does it go when using this technique?

 

Cheers

 

Tony

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As everything is open it will work its way back up to the highest point i.e. the master cylinder tank.

Stuart.

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I've recently upgraded the front brakes with 'green stuff' pads and have standard discs with the original twin pot calipers and am very happy with the results! I've not experienced any trouble with these pads ('wooden') on my TR or my daily driver.

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