Lord Flashart Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 How on earth does the horn button fit properly to the steering wheel? I have the three pronged clip and an (unfortunately) repro horn button and it just springs out of the steering wheel without any resistance at all. I'm going to have to glue it in I think. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted July 1, 2012 Report Share Posted July 1, 2012 Flash - I've seen the repro horn buttons listed on eBay often enough and as I've not heard of any problems, I assumed they were OK. So, I'll await the experiences of others with interest. If there is an inherent problem with the repros, I can find you an original. Just have to be a bit patient! AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lord Flashart Posted July 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2012 Yes please Alan!! Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted July 1, 2012 Report Share Posted July 1, 2012 Paul - It's in England - can collect when I am back for IWE. I'm sure I have a good one - but not NOS. No problem if you get another offer - take it not sure how rare the original ones are. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lord Flashart Posted July 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2012 Cheers mate. The NOS ones on eBay over here are going for about $120 hence not having one! I'll PM you my address. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAHTR4 Posted July 1, 2012 Report Share Posted July 1, 2012 Paul, The three pronged clip is not meant to retain the horn push. Its function is to hold the horn button in that same relative position when the wheel is turned. Thus the brass contact strip on the back lines up with hole for the brush contact and last but not least the Triumph shield remains vertical when the road wheels are straight ahead. The horn push is retained in position by two spring clips, Moss part number 613766, which fit into back of horn push. Looking at the back with the brass strip vertical, you will see two small slots, one at 1 o'clock and another at 9 o'clock, this is where each clip go. The photos show the clips insitu on a typical Lucas horn push - not for a Triumph - but the clip in positions are the same for all the horn buttons. If your repro horn button does not have these slots I am sure they can easily be cut. I can provide better close-ups if it helps. Regards, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lord Flashart Posted July 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 That'll be the problem then! Cheer mate. I'll order the clips ASAP. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lord Flashart Posted July 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 Well that explains it. The clips are listed on Moss Europe's site but not Moss North America. I''ll order some from Blighty. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianhoward Posted July 2, 2012 Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 Paul So you don' now require a full horn push? I have an original from my first TR (a 4) amongst my bits n bobs... Cheers Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lord Flashart Posted July 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 I think the horn push I have is fine, just need a couple of the clips. As they are not listed on the Moss north America site I didn't know I needed them. Cheers guys Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
glenroger Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 I can't keep my horn button in either... and I can't for the life of me see how those clips would work. What do they fasten to? I notice that the plastic well of the steering wheel has three "channels" - two of them have two parallel ridges while one of them has only 1 ridge. Is the "1-ridge channel" supposed to make clearance for the horn push tube. That is, should the "1-ridge channel" be positioned at the top? Thanks... Glen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAHTR4 Posted October 17, 2012 Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 Glen, The two clips bite into the side of the well of the steering wheel. The wire spring at 4 o'clock also bears against the well to hold the button and to make one of the required electrical contacts. The internal diameter of the well on an original TR4 steering wheel is 1.15/16" and the horn button with the clips, etc is a snug fit. You say that your steering wheel has a plastic well, thus I assume that it is an aftermarket steering wheel with a black plastic boss. Possibly the diameter of the well is slightly oversized? What is the make of the boss / steering wheel? Not sure what you describe as channels, any chance of posting a few photos, it might help. Regards, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grahamgl Posted October 18, 2012 Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 Hi, I think the picture above shows someone's adaption of the horn push. I have checked the one on my car and another original unit and neither of them have the three clips fitted. The horn push on my car is held in place by a three pronged spring clip, Moss part number 204741. The copper loop also shown in the pictures is mildly sprung. The prongs on the Moss clip fit into the three recesses shown in the pictures and these hold the horn push in place. The hole in the steering wheel boss for the horn pencil is at the top, the outer end of it butts against the the metal tag which is shown riveted to the centre of the horn push in the picture. The tag shown looks to me to be non original and is more like a Previous Owners work like the three clips shown. Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
glenroger Posted October 18, 2012 Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 Aha, I've just realized that I must have an aftermarket steering wheel. That may be why the horn button doesn't behave properly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAHTR4 Posted October 18, 2012 Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 Glen, You have a "Formula" steering wheel and boss, which is a 60's / 70's period accessory steering wheel. With that particular boss the two clips will not bear against anything. Thus you have to rely on the two ridges at 12 o'clock and 5 o'clock on the horn button bearing against the pairs of ridges within the boss well. Possibly if you bend the horn contact post a bit further towards the centre, the additional pressure on the spring might retain the horn button. The second photo is a bit blurred, however I have the same wheel and boss, so I will sort out a photo or two that might help explain. Regards, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAHTR4 Posted October 19, 2012 Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 Glen, A couple of photos : Steering wheel boss, the same as yours I think. Triumph horn button showing the ribs. Hope this helps. Regards, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted October 19, 2012 Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 Paul So you don' now require a full horn push? I have an original from my first TR (a 4) amongst my bits n bobs... Cheers Ian You have a message. PM. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
glenroger Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 Glen, A couple of photos : Steering wheel boss, the same as yours I think. Triumph horn button showing the ribs. Hope this helps. Regards, Richard Richard, I've had the problem of the horn push popping out for 20 years. I just checked back on the forum and found your response. The photos were a great help. The inner hub of the wheel was out by 120 degrees. When I rotated it the horn push popped right in and so far it has stayed. Wooooopeeeee. Now let's see if it stays. THANKS! Glen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 AAAAAAAARRRRRGGGHHHHHHH!!!!!!! I read Pauls original post and got no further. Today I found that my TR4 horn push was a very sloppy fit in the steering wheel hub. Into action - I made a collar that is a snug fit in the steering wheel and the horn push is a snug fit into the collar - it all looks rather simple. I then read the rest of the post and spotted the two clips. I now refuse to change back to what TRiumph wanted. What does the three pronged thing actually do. The horn push will not move on its own and the spring clip makes the electric circuit. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Prambert Posted July 18, 2013 Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 I second Roger's question above. Being playing with the horn all afternoon on my $A and can't get it to work unless I 'earth' across the steering column -> bulkhead. Therefore with my limited knowledge - the horn push works OK. Relay works OK Checked earth strap to steering rack Earth leads across top UJ seems OK Given up for today I don't have the little spring clips under horn button but it doesn't move about or pop out anyway - are they necessary? Phil p.s. On the plus side did get the washers working and now have an audible signal with the indicators - small victories! MOT due Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpb Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Old topic - revived! My horn push after being ok for a year or two has suddenly started to pop out, like the one at the top of this thread. Its an original steering wheel, but a new push. I have the three-pronged spring clip (like the Green Manalishi ). I looked at the Moss site, and Rimmers, and they both show the extra clips as "alternatives" to the three-pronged job. The push is a bugger to get in, but just pops out of its own accord whilst driving. Does anybody have a definitive way that these things should be held in? cheers dave ==== Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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