MikeTR-6 Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 I am having problems fitting my Windscreen / Scuttle rubber seal On comparison with the old one the T section that fits inside the chrome frame it almost double the thickness .Cant see it fitting, old one fits a treat but has a split at one end. Any similar experience. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vic Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 Hi Mike Very recently replaced mine as part of the restoration. I experienced similar difficulties which were overcome with copious amounts of washing up liquid and heaps of will power. To help with the grip whilst pulling/pushing I wore rubber gloves; neither pretty nor manly but extremely effective. Perseverance and imaginative use of the vernacular will see you through! Good luck Vic Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 (edited) From previous posts I think you need KY Jelly (or whatever turns you on) and get one arm of the T in first and then carefully and laboriously poke the other arm in, inch by inch, with a blunt implement (careful not to puncture or split it, so a screwdriver is probably not a good idea). Last time I did this was with a proper Triumph one and it was fairly easy, although I made the classic mistake of fitting it the wrong way round. You probably know this, but you need the rubber to curve downwards, which seems wrong but makes a tighter seal which will not lift and let water in at speed (as mine does!). That's assuming the repros are curved as per the original ones. [Edit: I obviously typed slower than Vic!] Edited June 19, 2012 by BrianC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PeteT Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 It's a real bitch to do. Just use lots of lube and pull an inch at a time. Blood sweat and tears Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 Don't even think about sliding it through the slot, just push the lip in with a blunt screwdriver and it's probably better without any lubricant. Regards Graham. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeTR-6 Posted June 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 Thanks for your help Did try befor i posted help. The T is just to think , put soap on it and it pops out as soon as you take the pressure off. May be a worst than normal batch . Thinking of re fitting the old one On the old rubber the T section is less than half the thickness in all dimension yet the curved flap that goes over the top deck is twice the thickness and more curved tapering at the end. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Graham Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 I've just done this too. I used the KY lubricant and a staple remover to work the seal into place. As others have said no way to slide in from the end. It is a slow process of forcing the rubber into the grove and the lubricant plus the staple remover worked for me. Orientation of the seal is important and the one I got (from TRF I think) had the rear marked on the rubber. Here is a picture I took along the way. Cheers, Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 (edited) Do NOT REPEAT do not trim any excess for for at least a week after it is installed or it will shrink back and leave you short at both ends. Wait till you get to the top one with modern reporos. OH boy ar you in for a treat. Again above warning applies. Suggest that you wash any soap off bothe sides before a retry as the soap will rot the seal for fun!!!! Edited June 20, 2012 by Rodbr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 Thanks for your help Did try befor i posted help. The T is just to think , put soap on it and it pops out as soon as you take the pressure off. May be a worst than normal batch . Thinking of re fitting the old one On the old rubber the T section is less than half the thickness in all dimension yet the curved flap that goes over the top deck is twice the thickness and more curved tapering at the end. Mike Mike You have made sure the t section is clean? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeTR-6 Posted June 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 Yes the frame is completely clean and as I say the old one fits a treat. Shame one end is split . The soap was car shampoo ,they say washingup liquid has salt in it , will give it another go this weekend. Cheers Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 21, 2012 Report Share Posted June 21, 2012 In reality the only way to fit the current repro stock is as Mike Graham has done, you need a lot of patience and strong fingers. Top screen rubber is exactly the same. Rechroming the frame doesnt help either as that will take a few more thou off the channel. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Icarus60 Posted June 21, 2012 Report Share Posted June 21, 2012 I too have had this fight. Looks to be mainly caused by yet another substandard reproduction part. It must be just as easy to manufacture to the original section as it is to make it to the wrong section. We can buy a repro cylinder head but cannot get a decent fitting piece of rubber. Something wrong and the TR register needs to get a grip of the substandard parts issue on behalf of its subscribing members. Silence on the many quality issues raised by members speaks volumes. Rog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted June 23, 2012 Report Share Posted June 23, 2012 Nearly all this stuff is made by COH Baines amd all of it has always varied a bit. http://www.coh-baines.co.uk/media/cohbaines-catalogue.pdf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeTR-6 Posted August 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 This stupid item has given me more problems than anything else in my rebuild . reluctantly re fitted the old rubber with no problem. Bumped this after reading SDF post on main forum. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted August 8, 2012 Report Share Posted August 8, 2012 Just done mine with comparative ease, though it's not a job I enjoy. Rubber mouldings are a pain because they vary enormously, presumably just sloppy manufacturing. As I said COH Baines male them and may always have done and supplied the entire motor industry in its day, now they make a fraction of what they did and stock moves slowly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeTR-6 Posted August 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 I totally disagree , I have earned my wages repairing cars and HGV;s for a living also did seven years as aircraft fitter Bae Hatfield assembling and retrofitting Ba 146 modifications until Hatfield folded.. And now for my for punishment i choose to play with the things.( old cars that is ). Believe me i know if a part its wrong ( THATS EXPERIANCE ) and the seal i have is WRONG FULL STOP. I don't know who made the seals in the 50s / 60s but that old one fitted , Are you are telling me in the 21st century 50 years on COH Baines or however cant reproduce the same quality. Price on a small simple item under £20 don't come into it, I for one would be happy to pay more for a seal that fits or as Brian pointed out A new hose that don't bursts under pressure positionally squirting boiling water over you or your passengers legs., just the thing doing 70 on the motorway. I had to fit front and rear screens to a MGB GT a short time ago , lovely fit. three weeks ago i struggled with a 1990 front Mini Cooper screen ( late type seal ) Gave up befor i broke the screen , got another from a diferent supplier Needles to say it fitted a treat. Just like the screen's i fitted when i did my 1st shell change at DCM Motors Islington back in 1973 , Mk 3 Ford Cortina belonging to the Daily Express. If you take my point. A supplier making parts for any of the big car manufactures would soon loose the contract if they turn out substandard parts . I have had personal experience with Land Rover QC and seen skips full or rejects DK packaging Coventry LEP Reading and so on Believe me they don't struggle fitting substandard parts on the production line. And if a company cant make a part fit for purpose get another company to make it BOTOM LINE has anyone REPORTED this particular problem to the MANUFACTUR on behalf of the club ? if not why. I complained / commented to Rob TR GB and he was unaware of any problem with this particular item .a Google search suggests otherwise If the people at COH Baines don't get the feed back maybe they aren't aware of any problem with the product enough, agree disagree that's my opinion Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 9, 2012 Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 The bottom seal is not a straight bit of extruded rubber. It should be 'formed' down and each end to follow the curve of the frame/body. I suggest the COH Baines item is a straight extrusion - if that is where the common stock is now coming. I recall that Russells Rubber had a hand in a lot of the rubber items used on TR and C&B used to buy them by the pallet load (minimum order qty causing us much distress with order cost and storage) until they closed. Many of the original tools, I guess, went the way of so many when the bean counters get a grip. Low volume means wasted motion for no profit..... *Ray of sunshine* PoundLand do a tube of 'SensuLube' for a quid - Driving down the cost of your rubber renewal...... Try explaining the 2 1/2 tubes of 'special grease' to the wife when she sees them in the garage. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.