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Sorry - yet another anorak warning


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Should these hood webbing retaining plates be painted or bright plated? If painted, black or same colour as the hood frame? :rolleyes:

 

 

hoodsticks.jpg

 

Thanks, and this could be the last nit pickin' question exercise! maybe

 

Incidentally, we don't have anoraks here, but we DO have hoodies. If you wear a hoodie here you may draw more attention to yourself than you'd like! That said, I don't wear an anorak or a hoodie nor do I engage in anti-social behavior. :)

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I had an oe set in gold cad plate finish as per door locks etc etc which looked original.

 

Most Triumph stuff was in what is now 'coloured passivation' as the guy I know who does plating calls it. Silver FYI is'clear'.

 

Regards

 

Tony

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Should these hood webbing retaining plates be painted or bright plated? If painted, black or same colour as the hood frame? :rolleyes:

 

 

 

 

Thanks, and this could be the last nit pickin' question exercise! maybe

 

Incidentally, we don't have anoraks here, but we DO have hoodies. If you wear a hoodie here you may draw more attention to yourself than you'd like! That said, I don't wear an anorak or a hoodie nor do I engage in anti-social behavior. :)

 

 

These are all good questions Frank. It will save me asking them a year from now. How about the plates at the very end at the rear that fasten to the tub, are they also plated or were they body color ?

 

Stan (who often wears a hoodie but has not been shot at yet)

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Hi Frank,

 

you deserve an anorak . . . . what colour and size would you prefer ? Then you'll be correctly dressed for British Car Shows !! :D

 

Like Tony, I've seen a fair few original minor components passivated, although not always the same shade, but I've also seen the same components in a painted finish of one sort or another. I'm referring now to what appeared to be pukka 'new old stock' components. Forgive my cynicism, but unless the items were purchased in person decades ago at a Triumph dealership, there's always a question mark as to authenticity.

 

It might be all too easy to be unjustifiably definitive - many components must have come from more than one supplier over the years, and even the same supplier may have been utilising different finishes in one factory from another. It only needed a production line hiccup to queer the pitch - a problem with a passivating facility, for example, and for the next month's items are painted silver or white or black instead. Let alone subsequent spare parts supply, a few years on and the Stanpart component may have had a different finish.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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You can plate them or paint them black as mine were when I bought my TR3A brand new in 1958. No TRA or VTR judge will ever see them as the top must be erected for any judged concours and they are covered by the vinyl top.

 

BTW Frank mine may have been black because all TRs had them painted common black or it may be because my 1958 TR3A's body colour is black.

 

This also goes for the body mounting plates below the carbs on one side and under the coil on the LHS.

 

Alec - Send Frank a "plated" anorax as thet's what he prefers.

Edited by Don Elliott
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Plated Anorak Don ? :o I can't somehow see Frank clanking round in armour, even if made of British steel . . . . :rolleyes:

 

Black was common to all sorts of Standard Triumph minor bits'n'bobs, but then so was plating, and I doubt the finish was entirely consistent. The likelihood of any unseen parts having been body coloured must be negligible, bean counters did not indulge that sort of luxury.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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I quite like the look of tatty paint with the occassional rusty bubble popping through - sort of in-keeping with the TRiumph look.

 

Roger

 

 

Oh, you mean like this when we began the project over 10 years ago.

 

work_in_progresscopy.jpg

 

But, we've come a long way since then!

 

DSC05952-copy1.jpg

May 2010

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Nice one Frank, mind you did start with a lot more than we usually have over here ;):lol:

Stuart.

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Thank you all for the compliments. This has been a daunting task which never would have been possible without your help and encouragement.

 

For Menno, in keeping with the original build record, the weather equipment (top & sidescreens) are black. Only black, white and fawn were offered in 1959. A pity I think, since red seems to compliment the Silverstone Grey so well. However, I do have a red hood stick cover and tonneau, which should look grand! Future plans include a red top.

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Nice one Frank, mind you did start with a lot more than we usually have over here ;):lol:

Stuart.

 

 

Seriously? I'd love to see before and after photos if you'd like to share them with us.

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I can't swear that an early 1962 TR4 hood webbing plates would be

the same as the TR3, but I have dug out this photo from TR 2100,

taken back in 1980, long before any restoration (and known to be

original).

 

I reckon the webbing plates were plated, as were the screws.

The only option could have been the same paint colour as the

hood sticks.

 

Note also, on the TR4, the felt strip to reduce the noise of the

hood vibrating against the hood sticks at speed, causing a

cracking (!) sound.

 

post-3552-0-06886500-1339491732_thumb.jpg

 

AlanR

post-3552-0-06886500-1339491732_thumb.jpg

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My 1958 TR3A came with a tan coloured velvet along the front stick. My top was tan but the hood sticks were painted black - the colour of my car. This velvet had a surface finish much like you see for the draught excluders up the "B" posts inside trim near the door latches.

 

The tan material was glued to the front cross stick on the velvet side about 1/4 inch wide. Then the sticky glue on the felt was face down onto the stick. Then the felt curved back above the stick and about half way around the stick. Then this second edge had glue applied and this was folded under the part that curved around the top of the stick.

 

Perhaps another way it could have been done was to cut the velvet about 1 and 1/4" wide of the appropriate length. With an iron (for pressing your pants or shirts) the two side edges were folded under and pressed leaving about 3/4" wide velvet with the edges folded and ironed under. Then glue might have been brushed onto the top of the hood stick and the tape velvet applied and held in place until the glue dried.

 

There was no sewing involved.

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