LEETR4A Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 Hi all I've just bought a set of MGF 6 x 15 6 spoke alloys for my daughters '7' fitted with 185 tyres on the front and 205 on the back, but just need to comfirm which wheel nuts to use and whether I need spacers although nothing seems to catch anywhere. The car still has the standard hubs with EBS grooved disks and standard wheel studs fitted. Thanks Lee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR8IAN Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 Lee, I have a set of MGF wheels on my car at the moment, I have used standard MGF tapered nuts - which cost around £60.00 from Brown & Gammons at Baldock. You should be able to find a set cheaper than that though! Ebay is worth a look or any of the TR7 spares dealers will normally carry some stock. I didn't have any problems fitting the wheels although I did have to open up the centres slightly on the fronts. Hope this helps Cheers Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nibbo Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 I've had MGF wheels on my 7 since 2002, and as Ian I had to open up the centres slightly both front and rear as when I first put them on I thought I was never going to get them off !!!!! I have used a set of chromed tapered wheel nuts with one locking nut on each wheel as some rat tried to nick them when I was parked up at a park and ride, I got two miles down the road when I noticed the car was wandering a bit, stopped and found all four wheels had three loose nuts ?? so I would recomend locking nuts. Regards Nibbo ( Nigel ) from sunny suffolk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LEETR4A Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Hi guys Thanks for the responses. I have tried fitting the wheels and the studs are a smaller diameter than the holes in the wheels and the standard TR7 studs don't look long enough to get the nuts on far enough. I've found this subject raised on another forum where it was recommended to fit LandRover Freelander 12mm studs as the TR7 studs are 7/16 inch diameter. What are your thoughts? Lee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nibbo Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 Hi Lee, It's all flooding back now, I purchased my MGF wheels from Robsport, they were doing a deal at the time, wheels Yokahama tyres and a set of studs, so yes fit the longer larger studs, you could always have a chat with Robsport to see what they recommend. Regards Nibbo ( Nigel ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR8IAN Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 Lee, All I did was fit the wheels and the tapered nuts from MGF, these nuts pull down deeper onto the original studs. I have been using the wheels for a couple of years now (10K miles) and havn't had any worries. But after 30 odd years it's probably a good idea to have the new studs and nuts just to be sure! Cheers Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HowardB Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Lee, Mine is exactly the same as Ian's except that during the last five years its clocked up 30k of hard driving (Stelvio pass, Nurburgring, Round Britain Rally etc.) without any problems so I don't think there is anything to worry about Cheers Howard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LEETR4A Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Hi guys Thanks again for the replies. I have ordered a set of Freelander studs and MGF nuts as a long term answer as I doubt I will have time to swap them before my daughter drives with us to Classic Le Mans next month. In the meantime I will make sure the nuts are kept tight. Regards Lee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alanprice Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Hi the simple rule for depth of thread engagement is 1.5 time the stud thread width. The TR7 studs are 12mm with a 1.5mm pitch. So as the pitch 1.5 = the 1.5 rule, you need to get 12 full turns from start of engagement to seating. Anything less is potentially dangerous, I would consider the 12 turns a minimum, ok for road use, but I would want more for track use. I have longer (works rally) studs on the rear. On the front I have aluminium alloy hubs, custom made to take one size larger outer taper roller bearing, plus Ford metric long studs (also 12x1.5mm, but different spline dimensions). As far as I can recall, longer TR studs are NLA and that's why I went for the Ford pattern when having the front hubs manufactured. Reasons for the longer studs: that extra engagement depth, I was only getting about 11 turns on my Compomotives used for dry tyres; my other Compomotives with rain tyres need 4 mm spacers to clear the calipers, again requiring longer studs. BTW I had the hubs machined to take a larger outer bearing (same size inner bore of course) because the standard one requires constant readjustment (at least on the track) leading to brake pad knock-off due run-out and it is not up to the job (one complete failure). The engineer that made my hub just could not believe that such a puny bearing would ever be fitted to a car, even one from 30+ years ago! Cheers now Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alanprice Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Hi again as usual I have second thoughts on stuff i write I was certain that the TR7 studs are metric 12x1.5mm, but just in case memory eluded me and after all the car did use a mishmash of thread types, i have checked and every listing I see says metric, not 7/16 unf as mentioned above. Anyway my thoughts on minimum 12 turns on the threads were perhaps aimed more at at sleeve bolts a la Revolution wheels, than nuts. My standard looking taper nuts are 25mm tall with about 21mm of thread depth internally, meaning I get 14 turns on the thread before the stud emerges out of the nut. Anything more I suppose is a waste of time and weight. So your wheel nuts don't actually have to go on deep enough to see the studs come out flush with or beyond the outside face of the nuts, so long as you get those 12 turns. MOT or police personnel might query wheelnuts that appear to have insufficient grip depth though, so perhaps closed end ones are the answer there. When I looked at all this a few years ago, no-one mentioned Freelander studs in place of the TR ones, but hey if they do the job and fit straight on, then great! Happy pressing, or bashing (ok within reason on the original iron hubs) I realise now that what I said about hubs and bearings is probably irrelevant, especially if you do limited road miles and as I'm sure, check the bearing play regularly. Proof is no-one seems to be having problems? Nevertheless in theory any increase in wheel width and especially offset plus wider, grippier tyres IS going to place extra stress on the outer wheel bearing (the iiner one I am told is fine because it takes less stress and ironically is actually more than big enough for the job). Again cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john 215 Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 (edited) Hi Lee, Ex TR7 V8 racer Jon Woolfe lists long wheel studs for TR7's - http://www.wolfitt.com/ ( click on 'Parts for Sale - TVR, Ford, Triumph etc (updated 12th March)' top of page, then at bottom of page in red Click here to 'see the range of Wolfitt Racing products' and finaly click on at top of list, 'Competition wheel stud and nut kit' , sorry cant get a direct link ) Cheers John Edited June 6, 2012 by john 215 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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