Nick P Posted May 21, 2012 Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 Evening all, your help would be much appreciated. Ever since recently having my starter motor replaced with a high torque example, my CR series car has been difficult to start from cold. It has electroic ignition, so presumably this does not relate to a coil ballast resister. It cranks very well, but takes a lot of cranking to get her started. It was starting easily before the starter motor replacement. Any suggestions ? Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rien Posted May 21, 2012 Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 Hi Nick, Do you know how many amps the starter motor pulls? Are you sure the that the starter gear have a little clearance with the ring gear when engaged? Are the brown wire on the starter or connector block secure connected? Rien Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick P Posted May 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 Rien, I think the engagment with the ring gear is OK because it cranks so well. I'll look at your other suggestions. Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 Hi Nick, during the change over did you disconnect anything that hasn't gone back. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick P Posted May 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 Hi Roger, the change over was done by TRGB and they are a long way from me, but, perhaps I should see what they suggest. Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bcthom Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 Maybe the new starter is using more battery grunt than the old one and the battery is a bit sad or some electrical connections are not clean and tight, so spark is not as good as before. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Denis Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 Had my car 39 years, and it's always started much better from warm than cold...bless it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Davidw Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 If the new starter draws more current that the old it could be that there isn't quite enough juice getting to the fuel pump? Have you a relay on the fuel pump? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
badshead Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Nick Unlikely that the new starter is drawing more current than the Lucas original and giving you a voltage drop - should be less amps unless it's faulty. Take a look at the connections to the new starter motor. In addition to the chunky power cable there should be a thick red/white cable and a thinner (probably white) cable. If the thinner cable is connected to a terminal on the starter, disconnect it and see if that improves things. Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 If it is only the 'coldstart' is affected then the current flow would be of minor concern. I appreciate that a cold engine is stiffer. I still think that something is adrift with the MU or thereabouts. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
racey Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Nick I agree with Roger, check that the over fuel lever is being used on the metering unit, the clip that retains the outer cable can easily have been dislodged if the mechanic has reached in from above to remove the starter motor. If there is plenty of power in the battery to turn the engine over then there is more than enough to spark it into life Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 (edited) The MU is on the other side from the starter motor so unlikely to have been disturbed especially by TRGB as they know their stuff. Still worth checking that it's functioning though. I can't tell from your original post whether you actually have a 6v ballasted coil or not. If you do then maybe the starter motor to ignition connection which supplies 12v during cranking is missing - although I would have thought TRGB would have got that right. Having said that as you have electronic ignition installed I would expect that you have a 12v coil and a full 12v feed to the ignition system, ie the ballast resistor cable has been removed or shorted out. Has it? Edited May 23, 2012 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick P Posted May 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Thanks for all the suggestions guys, I will investigate these over the weekend and report my findings. Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ijonsson Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 I don't know if your issue has been solved, but my TR6 was very difficult to start when cold. Then I had a mechanical problem with the ignition switch and while fixing that I discovered that positive feed wire was almost cut off (probably overheated at some time) meaning poor feed to ignition coil at start. Soldered in a piece of new wire and now it starts like a dream. /Inge Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick P Posted July 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 It turned out to be technique. I have found that letting the pump spin for about 20 secs before trying to start helps a lot. Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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