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Found what caused clunk (frustrating)


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So, as you may have seen from an earlier email I have had the dreaded rear end "clunk" in my TR6.

So put the car on stands and set about investigating.

Found:

1) worn driveshaft splines

2) missing washers on shock bushes

3) front passenger side diff mount with signs of previous welded repair

4) front diff carrier with signs of previous welded repair

 

Replaced drive shaft

Welded strengtheners to both front diff mounts (i'd like to see them fail now!)

Am sourcing washers

checked welding on diff carrier (looks good).

 

about to put the diff back and the steel tube in the rear diff mount fell out!

Now I know these should be bonded to the rubber mount.

Bet this was the source of the "clunk"!

 

So happy I have found the culprit. Annoyed I ended up replacing the drive shaft and welding mounts (although in both cases I may have well have done it given that I had everything out!)

 

Relieved that the weather has been so nasty that I havn't missed too many TR drives.

 

So last question, do the rear diff rubber mounts always fail like this or is it a duff batch!

Cheers

tim

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Hi Tim,

I had exactly the same problem a few years back. After putting up with a clonk for around 18 years, during which time I had the diff rebuilt, I was determined to solve it once and for all. I got my company mechanic to change all the uj's and it was as he was reversing it slowly off his ramps that his son noticed the diff was moving and hitting the chassis. When I had put the diff back on I had used the same mounts and the metal insert had come unbonded and I hadn't noticed. These would have been the original mounts fitted at the factory.

 

I'm afraid I don't know what the currently available mounts are like but it seems to me that all rubber components are now suspect and have a short life.

 

All of my suspension is now polybushed which has given a vast improvement to the handling. I think I would be tempted to fit poly diff mounts if I ever have to do it again.

 

Regards

Les

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Steel tube becoming 'unbonded' from the main bush is par for the course - even with genuine items.

The welding should hold all the metal in the right place now and stop all the clonking.

Cheers

Peter W

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Hi, It have me cost a couple of years to find out why I must replace the rear diff mounts many times, all the mounts now available are rubbish, the only good ones are the original Metalastic (147783 with the blue marking). I found some on ebay and have no problems any longer since 12 years.

 

Cheers,

 

Rien

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