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Kevin Warrington

Fuel Gauge Problems

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Driving along last Sunday, I noticed the fuel gauge was reading "empty", with the needle sat against the stop as if the fuse had blown. I use the trip meter as a backup and refill every 200 miles as I have never properly trusted the fuel gauge as I know it is pessimistic. I filled up to be on the safe side and the gauge moved up to approx 3/4 and having driven around 100 miles since refilling, it is now hovering just off the empty mark again. I'm pretty sure it is a gauge, sender or electrical problem. Fairly confident that it isn't the voltage stabiliser as this was replaced a year or two ago with a modern solid state one and the temp gauge is working normally.

 

So, I suppose I am going to have to test the gauge itself or the sender. I assume it works like a voltmeter, so if I pull the wire off the sender, it should go to the full position and if I ground it, it should go to empty?

 

Other than by substitution with a new one, is there an easy way to test the operation of the gauge itself?

 

And if it is the sender (which I suspect is most likely) can this be replaced with the tank in the car, or is it a tank out job to get to it?

 

Kevin

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Kevin,

I'd suspect a high resistance in the fuel gauge circuit if you're getting readings but not full scale. If you ground the wire from the sender to the gauge you should show full on the gauge, it's a hot wire instrument so more current through it gives more deflection of the needle. If you don't get a full reading with that test then look for a high resistance fault at the gauge connections, including back to the voltage regulator.

 

If you do indicate full on the test then check that the tank is grounded properly (I think the sender grounds through the tank but I can't recall for the moment. If the grounding is good then it looks like the sender is faulty. Tank out I think, or you might be able to tilt it backwards far enough to get at the fixings.

 

It's worth checking that your new stabiliser is giving 10v if you have a multimeter, belt and braces.

Edited by peejay4A

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If you do change the sender, then change the cork gasket and the little ones around the little screws as well. I did'n't and was amazed at how much fuel climbs out and fills up the boot!

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Thanks - Looks like I'd better start with checking the wiring first. I've had to sort a few bits out over the years due to bad earths, etc so I'll start with the obvious and check all the connections are sound.

 

Kevin

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Thanks - Looks like I'd better start with checking the wiring first. I've had to sort a few bits out over the years due to bad earths, etc so I'll start with the obvious and check all the connections are sound.

 

Kevin

 

My sentiments exactly - had a problem with O/D not working and disconnected wiring, gave all sorts of 'funny readings' on voltmeter and fuel gauge, once the wiring to O/D was sorted no more 'funny readings' - it looks like you are on to it with checking connections - best of luck

 

Reghars

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Yes.... Triumph wiring can be a bit marginal at best. :angry: When I put a relay into the fuel pump circuit, it fixed a few problems with the indicators.

 

Kevin

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