Ashley James Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 Bob I fitted these to my car http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=10124 I know it doesn't get help much to get the old ones out, but at least knowing these are going it means you can destroy the originals getting them out. If the rubber has gone, can you saw through the outer and collapse it out. Ash Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Brennan Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 Ash, I assume these Moss sleeves would need to be machined down to compensate for the old outer metal sleeve which, I fear, may be a permanent part of TS 24528. I actually already have new TRF silentbloc bushings and was wondering if it might be possible to cut the metal sleeve off the outside and use. They're direct from Taiwan, so there's no great loss if failure prevails. Too bad someone doesn't supply the nylon bushing by itself. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 Hi Bob, I've seen the nylon bush technique, to which your link refers, used in the past over here - probably 20 years ago. I don't know how long lasting the result proved to be, but it was running fine after some 10K miles on a TR2. Bush engineering, but it seemed to do the job well enough. Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 Bob If you can get a small hacksaw or file in there, you can cut through the steel sleeve and collapse it out. Ash Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Satchwell Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 Bob, I have just tackled the same problem on my TR3a over the winter, having test driven it only this week the car now steers very well, in fact I was over steering into corners at first due to the lack of play. I went down the Revington route fitting the spring loaded top cover, modified idler arm and improved track control pins. The only problem I had was splitting the control pins away from the car, take care not to hammer to much or you could damage the worm in the steering box. Removal of the old outer steel casing of the control pin by carefully cutting through it then tapping out as already suggested removes the need for a press. In my case it was then relatively easy to press the new Revington bushes in using a vice, then reaming out the hole to make a good fit for the new pins, Hope this helps Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 To undo tapers I recommend a track rod puller or wedge and a hot air gun. Just get some tension on it and then heat it up and it should fly off without stress. Ash Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Satchwell Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 Ash you are right I used a wedge and it was still tight, It was not possible to use a puller (no room), still need to be careful if the arm is not dropped off the steering box though, Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Brennan Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 Dave, Ash - Thanks for you ideas. Again, I'm trying to keep this a ground operation. Sawing the old outer casing stuck in the tie-rod, in situ, is going to result in a knackered tie-rod, although on a workshop vise, I'd try it. Today I'm going to take my Taiwanese/Roadster Factory silentblocs to my local machine shop to inquire about casing removal. I let you know how that turns out. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Brennan Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 So much for the easy way out. My machinist vetoed removing the outside steel, saying the rubber wouldn't last a week. Says "Get the tie-rod out and I'll take it from there". Bob - (looking up "tie-rod" in Haynes) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 You are far better off taking the tie rod off, carefully hacksawing the remnants of the steel bush out and fitting the Delron replacements. The repro rubber ones dont last five minutes. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Brennan Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 (edited) Thanks Stuart for the advice. I've ordered Delron/Delrin pins as well as new inner and outer ball joints. I'm having so much fun destroying parts with my new NAPA ball joint separator/destructor, I just don't know where to stop. Bob Edited March 21, 2012 by Bob Brennan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Brennan Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 Not much progress to report. Have given everything a lavish 5 day bath of PB Blaster and blasted away with a 2 lb hammer and different types of fork splitters. Has anyone tried one of these: http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-7315a.aspx?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=OTC7315A&utm_campaign=googlebase_18u&gclid=CPz0_Z7Nk68CFUXc4AodTSv0zA Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 Have you tried making sure the fork type splitter has the taper under tension and then heating the outer up, because this is usually very effective and reduces the risk of damage. Normally they spring apart easily without much tension on them. Ash Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 Guys, can you please tell me what are and where can be found these "Delron/Delrin" pins, thanks ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 Guys, can you please tell me what are and where can be found these "Delron/Delrin" pins, thanks ? Chris, See: http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=10124&SortOrder=1 Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 Thanks Andrew ! Cheers, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Brennan Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 What's the phrase - "Bob's your uncle"? The universal tie rod end remover (see above link) worked like a champ! No more beating-up your lovely with a two pounder and you can re-purpose those fork splitters for hand to hand combat! Thanks for the suggestions. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Brennan Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 First drive today - to the Irving Station, topping off with 91 octane, best we can get in Obama world. The pins were definately the problem and I'm appreciative of Stuart and Ash"s input. I have "surplus to needs" silent block pins ( from TRF) for anyone needing same, for the price of postage. Like Stuart, I would advise against it! Would appreciate any advice regarding alignment. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Brennan Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 (edited) Next dumb question: From which two points does one measure the 7.68" outer tie-rod length? Toe-in (with radials) = 0 to 1/16", Castor = 0, Camber = 2 degrees? Bob ps - Why is 7.68" expressed as a decimal, instead of 7-11/16"? Edited April 12, 2012 by Bob Brennan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 Length should be measured from the centre of each rod end i.e. centre of each pin when perpendicular. The 2 degrees is positive. Most of the measurements in the workshop manuals especially chassis dimensions are decimalised, no idea why. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Brennan Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 When I installed the new inner and outer ball joints, I thought it might be prudent to preserve the old (varying) tie-rod lengths. The right side measured 6-15/16", while the left was exactly 8". They are now exactly 7-11/16". So now, I'm off to the alignment shop. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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