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rack conversion - steering column tr3a


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Bob

 

I fitted these to my car http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=10124

 

I know it doesn't get help much to get the old ones out, but at least knowing these are going it means you can destroy the originals getting them out. If the rubber has gone, can you saw through the outer and collapse it out.

 

Ash

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Ash, I assume these Moss sleeves would need to be machined down to compensate for the old outer metal sleeve which, I fear, may be a permanent part of TS 24528. I actually already have new TRF silentbloc bushings and was wondering if it might be possible to cut the metal sleeve off the outside and use. They're direct from Taiwan, so there's no great loss if failure prevails. Too bad someone doesn't supply the nylon bushing by itself.

Bob

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Hi Bob,

 

I've seen the nylon bush technique, to which your link refers, used in the past over here - probably 20 years ago. I don't know how long lasting the result proved to be, but it was running fine after some 10K miles on a TR2. Bush engineering, but it seemed to do the job well enough.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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Bob, I have just tackled the same problem on my TR3a over the winter, having test driven it only this week the car now steers very well, in fact I was over steering into corners at first due to the lack of play. I went down the Revington route fitting the spring loaded top cover, modified idler arm and improved track control pins. The only problem I had was splitting the control pins away from the car, take care not to hammer to much or you could damage the worm in the steering box. Removal of the old outer steel casing of the control pin by carefully cutting through it then tapping out as already suggested removes the need for a press. In my case it was then relatively easy to press the new Revington bushes in using a vice, then reaming out the hole to make a good fit for the new pins,

 

Hope this helps Dave

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Dave, Ash - Thanks for you ideas. Again, I'm trying to keep this a ground operation. Sawing the old outer casing stuck in the tie-rod, in situ, is going to result in a knackered tie-rod, although on a workshop vise, I'd try it. Today I'm going to take my Taiwanese/Roadster Factory silentblocs to my local machine shop to inquire about casing removal. I let you know how that turns out.

Bob

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So much for the easy way out. My machinist vetoed removing the outside steel, saying the rubber wouldn't last a week. Says "Get the tie-rod out and I'll take it from there".

Bob - (looking up "tie-rod" in Haynes)

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You are far better off taking the tie rod off, carefully hacksawing the remnants of the steel bush out and fitting the Delron replacements. The repro rubber ones dont last five minutes.

Stuart.

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Thanks Stuart for the advice. I've ordered Delron/Delrin pins as well as new inner and outer ball joints. I'm having so much fun destroying parts with my new NAPA ball joint separator/destructor, I just don't know where to stop.

Bob

Edited by Bob Brennan
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  • 2 weeks later...

Not much progress to report. Have given everything a lavish 5 day bath of PB Blaster and blasted away with a 2 lb hammer and different types of fork splitters. Has anyone tried one of these:

 

http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-7315a.aspx?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=OTC7315A&utm_campaign=googlebase_18u&gclid=CPz0_Z7Nk68CFUXc4AodTSv0zA

 

Bob

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Guys, can you please tell me what are and where can be found these "Delron/Delrin" pins, thanks ?

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What's the phrase - "Bob's your uncle"? The universal tie rod end remover (see above link) worked like a champ! No more beating-up your lovely with a two pounder and you can re-purpose those fork splitters for hand to hand combat!

Thanks for the suggestions.

Bob

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First drive today - to the Irving Station, topping off with 91 octane, best we can get in Obama world. The pins were definately the problem and I'm appreciative of Stuart and Ash"s input. I have "surplus to needs" silent block pins ( from TRF) for anyone needing same, for the price of postage. Like Stuart, I would advise against it!

Would appreciate any advice regarding alignment.

Bob

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Next dumb question:

From which two points does one measure the 7.68" outer tie-rod length? Toe-in (with radials) = 0 to 1/16", Castor = 0, Camber = 2 degrees?

Bob

ps - Why is 7.68" expressed as a decimal, instead of 7-11/16"?

Edited by Bob Brennan
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Length should be measured from the centre of each rod end i.e. centre of each pin when perpendicular. The 2 degrees is positive. Most of the measurements in the workshop manuals especially chassis dimensions are decimalised, no idea why.

Stuart.

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When I installed the new inner and outer ball joints, I thought it might be prudent to preserve the old (varying) tie-rod lengths. The right side measured 6-15/16", while the left was exactly 8". They are now exactly 7-11/16". So now, I'm off to the alignment shop.

Bob

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