Nigel Lay Posted August 30, 2004 Report Share Posted August 30, 2004 Another question. When the verticle link is screwed into the trunnion I can 'rock' it side to side. there is no verticle movement and if the link is held verticle there appears to be no sideways movement in the trunnion. The thing is should the verticle link screw into the trunnion like a nut and bolt (or like a minor one) or is there some play, I think there shouldn't be so 2 new trunnions! but a second opinion would be appreciated. Thanks in advance Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted August 31, 2004 Report Share Posted August 31, 2004 There should be no sloppiness in any direction when the vertical link is screwed into the threads inside the trunnion. You will need two new trunnions and the rubber grease seals for the top. New trunnions come with the horizontal pins already pressed in. With them sitting on the bench, screw the vertical cast iron links into the new trunnions and check for slop. If there is still some, you may need to also change the vertical links. I have over 180,000 miles on my first (original) set of vertical links and with greasing on a regular basis, they are still not worn. Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Lay Posted August 31, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2004 Thanks Don - just as I thought. Now for the dreaded fulcrum pins, I don't want to remove the turrets so I will try it my way by cutting the tubes & pins into bits and then hopefully drive out the centre section in the turret by 'lots of heat'. Will let you know how I get on. Regards, Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted August 31, 2004 Report Share Posted August 31, 2004 I'm not sure what you mean by "turrets" but I use a stocky length of 1/2 threaded rod and large end plates (with a central hole 9/16" diam. in each plate) and screw all this in with the correct 1/2" nuts for the rod. Then I tighten the nuts and this compesses the spring pan - top and botton. This rod goes where the telescopic shock has been. When it's compessed, you undo all the bolts on the lower wishbone pan and the ass'y comes apart nicely. Then loosen the large nuts on the rods and allow the spring to become loose. Then remove all the trunnion bits as well as the upper link. Wouldn't this be easier and safer ? Don Elliott Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mrtr2 Posted August 31, 2004 Report Share Posted August 31, 2004 Don, I believe Nigel is refering to the the spring / shock towers. And that would be nasty to remove. Nigel I too have a bad fulcrum pin that needs replacing. Have you ordered and received a replacement yet. I have one from Moss and it looks correct. However, I dont think there are any tubes. It is one solid piece. I have looked at replacing and agree you will have to chop into bits, but I don't think you will be able to drive anything out. I think it will have to be drilled out and align bored. This might be done from the front with a rather long drill extension. That is the only way I could see to do it, and it would take a lot of drilling. The area below the engine mounts is what concerned me the most. I think we have the same frame, but if yours is different or if you have a different fulcrum pin, let me know. Good luck and keep us posted. Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Lay Posted September 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2004 Hello Brian, I understand that the pins went through a tube, they are not welded to it but just get 'cold welded' with rust like the tubes/studs that are the lower mounting points the the rear 'bumpers'. These I managed to heat up and drive the studs out. I will keep you posted! I will start a new thread to save confusion when I have some results. This may be in 10 days or so as work will probably get in the way!! Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mrtr2 Posted September 1, 2004 Report Share Posted September 1, 2004 Nigel I hope you are right about the tubes. That would make life much easier..... Perhaps!...The pins are welded to the inner brackets where the wishbone arms/bushings etc. attach, but where the pin passes throught the turret, I am not sure. I think I will pull a wheel and hopefully get a better look. I measured the diameter of the pin in the area between the turret and the inner bracket and it is 7/8 inch. same as the new replacement from Moss. Would it not be possible to heat and true up the bracket and pin? Might be easier than replacing. Send me a picture if you have . Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
j-eichert Posted September 2, 2004 Report Share Posted September 2, 2004 Brian and Nigel: I replaced my front turret and had to cut the old one down completly. There is no tube on the fulcrum pin, it is a very massive thing. And i'm quite sure that you can't remove it without harming the turret. There are only two short tubes on the end of the pin: These are the bushes to the frame carrying the spring pan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mrtr2 Posted September 2, 2004 Report Share Posted September 2, 2004 j-eichert Thats what I was afraid of. The fulcrum pin looks like it goes through a tube that is mounted from inner bracket front to inner bracket rear. What do you think of the idea of cutting the bushing sections, then the inner bracket to turret section then trying to align bore the whole mess? Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Lay Posted September 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2004 I will start another thread on this one 'fulcrum pins the continuing story'. Regards, Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
j-eichert Posted September 2, 2004 Report Share Posted September 2, 2004 Brian, as i wrote before, i had to cut down the whole turret because a previous owner repaired it in a way the german TUV (like UKs MOT) would not accept. I can scan my pictures and mail them, if you like to see the whole mess. But back to that pin: The fulcrum pin is massive, the only tubes are between outer bracket and loose bracket. They are usually "rust-welded" to the fulcrum pin. if you cut the inner brackets, then the pin has only one point were it is fixed: the massiv (3mm?) bracket, that strengthens the turret and carries the engine mounts. This is the key to the fulcrum pin, but is only accessible from the front. From behind, you can't get inside to cut the pin. If the steering mounting brackets in front of the turret are ok (they usually are), then there is no space to drill the pin out. And i assume that the colleagues are right when the say that the pin is made of harder material. So you need a good drill and a good position to work from. If the diagonalmember behind the turret has to be replaced(they usually are rotten at their lower end where the meet the frame) you have sufficient space to work from behind. But that doesn't help if you just want to remove the pin. My suggestion is (still) to remove that big bracket too. Fix the new pin with the outer loose brackets into a carefully measured position and then weld a new bracket & pin to the turret. I guess thats more efficient than trying to drill that pin out Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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