Nigel Lay Posted August 30, 2004 Report Share Posted August 30, 2004 I know this has come up before but I never printed off! The body is now off TS952 as I wanted a change from amateur metal bashing, still at least the worst is done with new metal let in where needed so it is now getting to the underside to finish the welding and then finishing off the outer panels and painting - doesn't it sound easy when it's put like this, I can still see weeks or months of work ahead on it! Anyway back to the dreaded pins, I have got to replace both, one is slightly bent due to a nearside shunt (by the way the crud had built up I should think it was decades ago) and the other has been built up with braze at some time. The only way I can see is to cut off the 2 'outer' tubes front and rear with the pins inside and then heat up the inner bit of the tube in the turret and belt the remainder of the pin out with a drift. If anybody out there has done it any tips/wrinkles would be appreciated. The shunt on the nearside does not appeared to have done much other damage as all the measurements are basically within 1/16" the worst being 1/8" which is due to the bent pin and rear bracket which can be sorted. One other thing that somebody may be able to answer, does it matter who supplies the pins, I would imagine they are all from a single scource. Regards to all, Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted August 31, 2004 Report Share Posted August 31, 2004 I have only ever seen trunnions (both new and replacements) for the lower outer front wish-bones (we call them "A" frames over here) with the pins already pressed in from new. Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
j-eichert Posted August 31, 2004 Report Share Posted August 31, 2004 Hello Nigel, when looking over my frame, I found similar trouble: a very rough repair of a probably bent front turret. I ended up in replacing the whole turret. When i bought, i got four parts: The turret, the large bracket (the one that carries the engine mounts later), a small bracket (that carries the removable cross member) and the fulcrum pin. I think, you could need fulcrum pin and the large bracket. Then you could cut (grind) out the pin & bracket, which gives yoiu more space to work on. In my experience, a welded part can't just be turn out while heated up. Welding is a form of melting the metal, so things are really melted together. I think you would at least damage the remaining part. My parts were supplied by Revington as one lot, but they may be willing to sell the parts individually too. Good luck :: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted August 31, 2004 Report Share Posted August 31, 2004 Nigel, if you are talking about the pins in the lower outer trunnions, you have to replace these pins together with the fulcrums, just like Don says. Later cars have a removable bolt, but on sidescreen cars, you have to dismantle the suspension arms and slide them of the pins and then remove the small bolt on the trunion ('turn stop') and unscrew the trunion of the vertical link. Problably the trunions have weared out and have to be replaced anyway. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted August 31, 2004 Report Share Posted August 31, 2004 Nigel, the lower inner fulcrum pins are a bigger problem of course. They are welded in place, but removing and replacing the pins is still the least of the problems. Welding the pins in the right place is the real problem, especially because you are not sure about the chassis and the turrets if the car has had a shunt. The turrets and inner fulcrum pins are all important for the steering geometrie. The pins seems to be parrallel with the centre axis of the frame, but also the turrets and the mounting holes for the upper inner fulcrum pins should be at the right places. I think it is not over the top to bring the chassis to a specialist like CTM engineering. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Lay Posted August 31, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2004 Thanks for that - I have checked all the dimensions + angles as per the manual, also comparing left and right. The angles in reality are within a 1/2* (havn't loaded in a degree symbol!) of the book and the worst dimension error is 3/16" which is because the fulcrum pin rear bracket is slightly bent. All the rest are within 1/16" which is pretty good for 50 years. Also remember this is a very early chassis with non of the strengthening of those some 600 later. Chassis number on plate is Z19. It has never been modified so has the cracks around the rear shock mountings etc but overall is in a pretty good shape. I have no worries about replacing them as I can jury rig a template to keep everthing in position while tack welding a new pins plus tubes in place before finally seam welding them - jury rig usually comprises of angle, plate & grips etc. We will see, if I am not hapy with the results I will get the chassis checked but we are in the wilds of the west country and everywhere is a long way to go. The shunt was deffinitely light and I think on the wheel, the car spent the first 4 years of it's life on the Gold Coast, apparently no roads just pot holes. regards, Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mrtr2 Posted August 31, 2004 Report Share Posted August 31, 2004 Nigel, check your other thread. Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted August 31, 2004 Report Share Posted August 31, 2004 Nigel -With the measurements and precautions you take, I'm assured you will succeed in the lower fulcrum pin job. I wonder if it is possible to drill out the pins : they are hardened steel I presume and are welded in the mild steel of the turrets. Perhaps you will need to chisel them out in some places and then you end up with holes that are wider than the pins : perhaps you will have to weld reinforcements with pin sized holes in the turrets? Replacing these pins is a interesting job : do you keep us informed? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Lay Posted September 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2004 See other thread as well, as I have said will start a new thread when I have more to report (or given up and taken to drink!) - Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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