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Brakes - Pull to the right


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I am preparing 73D for its long trip to Andalusia.

 

The car is pulling to the right sometimes when the brakes are engaged.

 

A few weeks a it was discovered that the piston on the calliper, passenger side had a ceased piston so I replaced the callipers with the new after market ones that have been made available recently. We have also replaced a rear wheel cylinder and some pipework. The pull is still there

 

We have bled the brakes starting at back passenger side and in addition using the wedge the bit of wood against the seat method as Staurt has suggested in other threads. The brakes aren't really spongey but could be better but more than acceptable.

 

So thinking outside the box, any ideas. Suspension? Just had the trunnions overhauled? Or perhaps steering rack - that is one of the few bits of the original car left? The car doesn't pull when driving on a straight\flat surface....We have discovered that the disc on one side where the calliper was ceased was like new - could it be a (re) bedding issue?

 

Your thoughts and help as always gratefully appreciated...

 

:huh::blink::(

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Always look for trouble in the brakes on the side the car pulls AWAY from.

In this case look at the left brakes.

 

Have you fitted new pads? If so bedding in is important, but it's not a matter of conforming them to the old discs' irregularities. Bedding puts the pads through a controlled heat cycle, to ensure that all volatiles are excluded and that they are matured by that heating.

Lots of recommended procedures, but basicly you slow down, NOT stopping, from at first slow speeds, say, thirty down to ten, and then from faster speeds up to the fastest you are ever likely to do, down to thirty. Do NOT try to fade the brakes, that means they have got too hot. Do all these stops without parking, and without ever leaving your foot on the pedal for any longer than absolutely necessary. Nor should you let the brakes cool down between stops - the object is to get them up to full working heat, before they can cool down again.

 

John

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If the flexible hoses havent been replaced recently...then replace them. The rubber ones can collapse internally (mine did) and yet look perfect from the outside.

Secondly, check the rear drums are set up correctly. wheels off the ground, turn the adjuster so the wheels lock and back off 2 or 3 flats. Ensure you do the same number of turns for both sides.

 

When you say you replaced the calipers, did you replace the pair or just the faulty one? Worth replacing everything in pairs when playing with brakes (rear wheel cylinders for example) as it means everything is 'balanced' in its wear and age.

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Centering of the caliper to the disc is one thing a lot of people forget (shims get lost when removing and replacing caliper) and in extreme cases a misaligned caliper can break the disc off under heavy braking :wacko: Check also the caliper mounting bracket as I have seen them bent despite their solid looking construction. Collapsed flexi`s are another good culprit.

Stuart.

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Hi All,

 

On behalf of Steve, hope you dont mind.. :)

 

The pulling to right only happens when they have warmed up and not all the time !!

 

Also Yes both calipers are working as they should.

 

Steve replaced the calipers only and not the disc's or pads and hence from the caliper that was seized on the left side the disc is like new on the outside face but has grooves on the inside of the disc.

 

Again the pulling doesnt happen each and every time, also it feels more like spring compression on the right as if she is diving on right side. I have suggested adjusting the spaxs more evenly!!

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Me thinks he needs to change Discs and Pads,tis the Damaged Disc thats causing the Pulling/Grabbing.

The Shocks should be set Even on both Sides,may differ Front to Rear.

 

 

Yep indeed and Stuart is also right it must be shimmed true

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Thanks for the input on this one - the car has been driving better the last few days and the pull is becoming less and less noticeable. Certainly if doesn't go away fully after a while I will change the disc and replace pads both sides. Do you have to change both discs (as with pads calipers etc)?

 

:wacko:^_^;)

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Although personally I would change both discs and fit new pads to be on the safe side you can try to isolate the cause to prevent unecessary expense.Before you change the discs and pads it may be worth making sure the pads are not glazed over having been standing especially as it is improving slowly, I had a similar experience when a car was left standing for about 6 months. Remove the pads and rub a file across the face to clean up the surface and to remove any glazing. Dont breath in the dust and make sure to replace the pads in the same posaition from which they are removed. Hopefully you will see some more improvement.

 

Brakes should always be treated, replaced, renewed etc in pairs.

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